HI Rusty Sgian Dubh Part II

Svashtar

Svashtar

Joined
Dec 28, 2003
Messages
4,793
Yvsa did a thread with some very good closeup pics of this model on 5/30. Yangdu was nice enough to also send me one of this model, and asked me to do a write up of it with my own impressions. I just unboxed it this morning and have been playing with it all day.

Yvsa's Sgian Dubh appeared to have chandan handles and a red sheath. The one sent to me has a Sisau wood handle and tan colored sheath. Specs are 7 7/8" OAL, with a handle 3 15/16" long and a blade also 3 15/16's. Right down the middle. Spine width at the bolster is .175". The sheath is tan leather. Weight is just 3.1 oz. This is a very light knife. Keep in mind that an 8" JKM weighs twice as much. As designed the handle is flat on one side and rounded on the other.

The grain on the sisau wood is tight and has some nice figure to it. The bolster is brass and the wood to metal fit is good. The blade has filework on the spine that is well done, with the notches sanded out after they were cut so it is very smooth. The blade says "Rusty Sgian Dubh" on the right side, and "200K Posts" on the left. The regular HI and Kami marks are very neat, with this and Yvsa's both being made by the same Kami whose symbol is a torch. Can't recall who that is. Anyone?

Plusses: The knife is very comfortable in the hand, the sheath is closely stitched and very well fitted to the blade with the edges sanded smooth, the blade design is nice, the filework is great, the blade is highly polished, the sisau wood is pretty and the bolster and wood to metal fit is very good.

Minuses: the blade is extremely dull (easily fixed, and that is because of the great polish it got) and the contouring on the handle and butt is uneven. That is also pretty easily fixed, and Yvsa's did not have that. Biggest "minus" is that the sheath leather on mine is dirty and has some oil in it. Again, Yvsa's did not have that and I get the impression that this is a prototype of the final.

If one of you guys will tell me what to use I will stain it a darker color. As I mentioned the workmanship on the sheath is excellent. I have seen quick stitching in the past, and this is very carefully, neatly and strongly done.

Overall this is a great authentic addition to the HI line, and with chandan and sisau so far, I'm sure we'll see it in other materials. For me, the ideal material for this one would be plain old smooth horn, and I'm going to be keeping an eye out for one of those. (And an anter of course! And hill walnut. And... :D ) That it commemorates Rusty and 200,000 HI Forum posts is just an added bonus for me.

Here are some pics: (Some pics are slightly blurry closeup still. #3 is a good example of that, and yet the grass is very clear. Need to fix that and I apologize for the distraction.)


Left side:

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In the hand. I have large hands and the simple classic design made it comfortable to hold:

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In the sheath:

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And, one with a Kumar Karda and JKM for comparison. You can see the flat side of the SD handle is up here:

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Many thanks to HI and Yangdu for the opportunity to try out this cool little knife!, and for Yvsa and Sarge for getting it together and working on the prototypes that went to Nepal. :thumbup:

Regards,

Norm
 
Norm, the kami that made these was Yuvraj. He put a nice grind and temper on the blades, they hold a good edge and cut very well. I got the live steel "model" I made back, and comparing it to the HI Sgian Dubh I can tell you Yuvraj got it pretty much right on the money. I'd like to see a horn handled model also, that would be sweet. The intent in going with a wood handle was so it would be easier for the owner to modify/personalize. Wood is also just a skosh lighter, a valid concern for a knife meant to be tucked in a sock or boot top. Neat little knives ain't they? I'm plumb tickled with 'em. :)

Sarge
 
I really love those lil' things:D Great review, Norm. Sarge, thanks so much for your hard work on these. I can't wait until they are available to the masses:) What a great little EDC for those that love the Cantina, those that like to keep a little bit of HI with them wherever they go, and especially for those that knew Rusty.

Jake
 
That is good.

I hope some with unmarked blades will come through the pipeline also.

If they start coming through the next trick is to make them easily available to the "Scottish Games" crowd. If there were enough stock to go on the HI website that might be a way. I think the people looking for accessories for their traditional garb would probably prefer the blades unmarked.
 
Sylvrfalcn said:
Norm, the kami that made these was Yuvraj. He put a nice grind and temper on the blades, they hold a good edge and cut very well. I got the live steel "model" I made back, and comparing it to the HI Sgian Dubh I can tell you Yuvraj got it pretty much right on the money. I'd like to see a horn handled model also, that would be sweet. The intent in going with a wood handle was so it would be easier for the owner to modify/personalize. Wood is also just a skosh lighter, a valid concern for a knife meant to be tucked in a sock or boot top. Neat little knives ain't they? I'm plumb tickled with 'em. :)

Sarge
Click to expand...

Thanks Sarge; that explains it. I didn't have the torch on my symbol list, so must not have had any of his work previously. The one Kami I was missing!
The wood makes sense, and I already have some plans for that to get the handle just so for me. It is amazingly light.

Howard, I agree that I like the idea of a commemorative model for HI folks, but all that engraved writing is a little distracting and others may not want it. A plain model would be great.

So on the leather I guess I'll just try the Home Depot and see if they have any brown leather dye. Is there any treatment I should do to the leather after dyeing it? And can anyone suggest a treatment for the leather before dyeing to get it a bit cleaner?

I'm afraid if I use Pecards or anything like that it will just prevent the dye from working properly.

Thanks,

Norm
 
One thing I always do with any sheath I make, or a store-bought one - is soak it in several changes of clean water. This leaches out most of the residual tanning salts that can cause blade rust. It will not harm any decent leather. My best results have come from using a light colored dye, and saturating the leather as much as I can with it. It will look way too dark, but dry lighter. You can always go over it again to make it darker, but not the reverse. I have had good results with Tandy Pro Dye (tan and saddle tan are what I currently like) Feibings is OK too if that's what you can get. Some like Feibings Pro-Oil , but I haven't tried it yet.
Avoid any product that will soften the leather. That's not what you want at all - except perhaps the belt loop.
Hope this helps some. Glad to help if I can.
 
It's not the right way, but I use whatever wood stain I have around to darken the rough leather I have. Let it soak in, rub it off, dry it out...then maybe give it a quick hit with polyeurethane.

That, or any, and I mean, "any" oil I have at hand. I'm using 7-8oz rough leather so...it just stains, but doesn't soften.

Have fun.
 
Norm, try crafts stores like:
Michaels Arts & Crafts Store

or shoe repair
John's Boot & Shoe Repair

Both close to you. I don't think Home Depot will have any leather dye.
Steve
 
I like that knife!!!

Granted I will prolly never own one, but that doesnt stop me ffrom digging it!!!

Neatlac works good for getting dye to set deeper and not leech out as easy..

hmm...no leather dye?? make your OWN!!!!!<~~~cheapskate!!!

Pm me and I will tell ya how it is done..(dont wanna hijack);)

Seal it with beeswax or Resolene if ya have it...

Oil?? hmm I dont know much about using that, so I wont comment on it
 
Leatherface said:
hmm...no leather dye?? make your OWN!!!!!<~~~cheapskate!!!

Pm me and I will tell ya how it is done..(dont wanna hijack);)
Click to expand...

Dave, please put your recipe for leather dye in the sticky Tips and Tricks thread at the top of the page and then everyone will have access to it.:thumbup: :cool: :D
 
ferguson said:
Norm, try crafts stores like:
Michaels Arts & Crafts Store

or shoe repair
John's Boot & Shoe Repair

Both close to you. I don't think Home Depot will have any leather dye.
Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve! Of course, should have thought of Michael's. I checked today and have some spray on leather cleaner that I bought a few years ago for some cowboy boots, back when I could still get them on. (-: (One thing about gaining weight, is even a little extra weight and the boots are too tight and the last is not going to stretch. I have 6 beautiful pair and can't wear any of them. Someday...)

I'll clean up the leather as best as possible then dye it a light brown the treat with Pecards. That should do it. There is one heavily oiled dark spot, but it should be almost invisible when finished. I'll post a couple of pics when complete.

Thanks again for the assist.

Norm
 
Bri in Chi said:
One thing I always do with any sheath I make, or a store-bought one - is soak it in several changes of clean water. This leaches out most of the residual tanning salts that can cause blade rust. It will not harm any decent leather. My best results have come from using a light colored dye, and saturating the leather as much as I can with it. It will look way too dark, but dry lighter. You can always go over it again to make it darker, but not the reverse. I have had good results with Tandy Pro Dye (tan and saddle tan are what I currently like) Feibings is OK too if that's what you can get. Some like Feibings Pro-Oil , but I haven't tried it yet.
Avoid any product that will soften the leather. That's not what you want at all - except perhaps the belt loop.
Hope this helps some. Glad to help if I can.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for the tips Bri. I'll look for the Tandy dye and get it if I can.

Norm
 
Norm I have some Feibings Dye I bought from Tandy 25 years ago and all it takes is a good shaking and it's good to go.
 
Great review, thank you Norm
 
Hopefully these will start to trickle into the DOTDs soon, I know a scotsman that would be well pleased with a gift of this kind.
 
Update, I sharpened this today and it took a beautiful edge. It was hair popping sharp in no time. I'll post some pics once I have the hande tweaks done and the sheath dyed. Nice little rig.

Norm
 
Svashtar said:
Is there any treatment I should do to the leather after dyeing it? And can anyone suggest a treatment for the leather before dyeing to get it a bit cleaner?

Norm
Click to expand...


Norm, try using saddle soap to clean up the leather, it should be available at places that sell leather goods as well as Tandy.

As far as dyes go, I would recommend Fiebing's whiich I''ve found at leather goods places, as well as Tandy. Tandy Pro Dye is good also. I would stay away from the Cova dye, or any other acrylic dye, as it doesn't dye the leather, but puts a coat of plastic over it. I've used it before, and it does not wear well.

After dyeing, use a wax, or a sealant such as Neat-Lac, Lexol, etc to keep dirt, oil, salts from the leather.

John

"I haven't failed. I've found 10,000 ways that don't work" -Thomas Edison
 
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