HI WWII Khukuri and Kabar Kukri initial impressions

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Dec 27, 2010
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By way of introducing this thread, I should mention that I spent many weeks searching for information on Khukuri, and was able to find virtually no solid information, aside from that most people don't seem to like Kabar or Cold Steel, and DO seem to like Himalayan Imports. I could find virtually no information about the non-traditional KLO's such as the Kabar Kukri or Cold Steel's various offerings. End result, I bought both, and plan on sharing some photos and thoughts with you. This includes only my initial impressions, and I'm well aware of the problems that are supposed to crop up with the Kabar's Kraton-G handle. So far, after about 200 hours of use, I have not encountered them. Without further ado:

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I think you can probably guess which is which, so I'm not going to say much about that.

I'll start with the Himalayan Imports Khukuri (henceforth to be abbreviated HI, as seems to be standard). I ended up getting the 18" WWII model, since the 15" Ang Khola was out of stock. I knew in advance that the knife would be forged by a kami (that is, a master in the art of making khukuri, often from a long line of such masters, for those new to Khukuri, like myself). I also had gleaned that the knives are generally made from leaf springs from trucks. Now, I'll be honest with you, I love BIG knives. It's probably because they're close to short swords, so they're big enough to feel like I've got a real weapon, but short enough to use in close quarters. Not that I ever intend on getting in another fight involving knives, or any other kind of weapons, but hey, if you need it...

I also want to mention that the folks at HI are fantastic. Absolutely impeccable customer service. They were willing to answer all of my questions, and were completely aboveboard. Quick responses, and willing to work with someone on a student budget. I was a bit sketchy about sending them a credit card number via email, but given their popularity, I figured it would be fine. It was, they're totally on the level. So if you're thinking that their shop looks sketchy or anything, not to worry. I would expect your transaction to go smoothly, and I will almost certainly do business with them again in the future. Okay, enough talk, more review.

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The 18" WWII model comes in a handmade leather sheath, which is extremely sturdy. The knife itself was smaller than I had expected; the 18" I think refers to the overall length of the knife, rather than the length of the blade.

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The sheath itself also contains two smaller knives (of sorts). The top knife is called the karda, and is a small knife for cutting tasks that do not require a gigantic blade. The other knife is called the chakma, and does not have an edge. I gather it is used for light sharpening. I think the general idea is that when you use a knife, at least, a properly tempered one, the edge will roll to the side slightly (or it will chip, if the temper is not ideal). By periodically running the chakma over the edge, this process can be corrected, much like you would do with a steeling rod. The chakma came with a number of scratches all over it; I was unsure if that was intentional or not.

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The karda did not have nearly as many scratches on it. It also sports the same wooden handle as the khukuri. Both karda and chakma appear to be glued into the wooden handles. I am not sure what kind of wood is used, but it has a very nice grain, and feels as if there was a wax finish applied. It looks fairly similar to mahogany, which makes me wonder if the usual neem wood was used (neem is a type of mahogany local to Nepal) The blade appears to be epoxied or glued into the handle.

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The sheath is very durable. It is made out of some kind of leather, probably water buffalo hide, since that seems to be traditional. However, it is very rigid, leading me to believe there is some kind of a wood insert stitched inside.

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Overall the finish was surprisingly good, although not up to par with some of the swords and other weapons I buy. There were a few wrinkles here and there, on the front side of the sheath, and on the back.

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The bottom of the sheath is protected by a brass cap, which has some small scratches, as if its been polished with fine grit sandpaper.

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You'll note how thick the frog is as well from some of the earlier pictures. I would normally prefer a ring to tie the bottom of the sheath to my leg, but the khukuri barely moves around on my belt, despite the heft of the giant knife, so the thick frog seems to be doing its job.

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Overall I'd say the sheath is very nice and useable, which is good, because I really intend to use this knife as a field knife. Nothing like getting those weird looks from the hippy backpackers around here because I'm toting around a giant knife on my pack.

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Anyways, lets take a look at the Khukuri itself.

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The knife itself is pretty huge. It's 18.25" long from pommel to tip of blade, measured straight, and the blade itself is 12" long. It is 5.5" to the bend, measured along the spine of the blade, and 7.25" from the bend to the tip of the blade. The handle is 6" long, and nicely finished. The blade is probably inserted into the handle by way of a stick tang, which is glued into the handle through the use of a local epoxy called laha.

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The blade looks beautiful, although I will remark that it came pretty dull; it was largely unable to cut through even a cardboard box, which the Kabar kukri made short work of. So I ended up sharpening it before I did any serious cutting with it. I'm not sure if that's universally true of HI knives, but if you're not at least somewhat competent at sharpening, you may end up with more of a bludgeon than a blade, in terms of out-of-the-box sharpness. I admit I was a bit disappointed about that.

That being said, the blade is gorgeous. The steel is amazingly strong and really holds an edge nicely, once you put a decent one on. I went for a convex grind for strength, which took me quite some time to do, since I'm no expert, although I tend to be very picky about my blades. It also has a funny shaped indentation 1" up along the blade, along with some sort of marking, which I assume is the signature of the kami. The inch between the cho and the handle is unsharpened.

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As I understand, the cutout is called the Cho, and there are a wide variety of explanations for it. My personal favorite is that the Cho symbolizes the trident of Shiva, the Hindu god of war (and creation). I had initially thought that Nepal was more Buddhist than Hindu, but it's evidently more than 80% Hindu, so this explanation does seem to make sense.

The engraving of the makers mark has obviously been done by hand, and not engraved by a machine. It's clearly been scratched into the blade with a hand tool, although it looks pretty good, and honestly, the fact that it's handmade by a kami really endears the blade to me. Not to mention that this kami really knows his stuff. The blade is beautiful. The markings are different on each side, and I'm not entirely certain what each means. I did some research, but could not find the markings on my blade, so I guess HI maybe is using a new kami who has not yet been added to the list.

There's a fuller along the back of the spine of the blade extending up to the curve, possibly to reduce weight, but certainly to improve the aesthetic appearance of the blade. The back of the blade is beveled, I assume for strength, and because it cuts down on sharpish edges on the back. The blade is 1 3/8" thick at the base, but widens to 2" past the curve. The blade is a whopping 3/8" thick. I think the sheer size of the blade, along with the fact that it's made of basically extremely heavy duty spring steel, is probably why HI Khukuri come so highly recommended. I immediately get the feeling that this blade is virtually indestructable, and will really last a long time. It will certainly outlast its owner!

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The handle is made out of wood, and has a nice waxy finish that makes it really easy to keep a good grip. It also looks great. A really close examination reveals that the cuts in the hilt are not perfectly even, which I assume means that they were done with hand tools. It's very hard to tell, however.

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There is a brass fitting where the blade meets the hilt, which appears to be flawless. Polish looks great, and there are no sharp edges. The hilt is also capped with brass. There are 3 noticeable flaws, including a gouge in the pommel cap, and two burs, which provide sharp edges and need to be sanded down. The hilt also flares out, possibly to prevent the wielder from losing his grip, since you generally don't want to death-grip a khukuri.

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I did a few cutting tests with what I had available. I love to chop cardboard boxes. Even sharpened, however, it doesn't cut as well as the Kabar knives I own, or the benchmade combat knives.

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I had to swing pretty hard to cut that deep, and you can see the edges are pretty torn up. Here's another one:

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It fared quite well on wood, however. The khukuri weighs around 2 pounds, mostly in the blade, and that's a lot of heft for chopping. I tried it out on some seasoned cherry, and it did a good job of biting into that, chopping through a 1" stick in a few hits. It also kept its edge nicely, without so much as bending. Overall, I'm certainly happy with this khukuri.

To be continued...
 
And continued...

Now, let's take a look at the industrial offering. Kabar has, in my opinion, a pretty fine tradition. I realize that they did not actually make most of the combat knives for which they are best known. Camillus, I gather, is a better manufacturer. However, they do produce some fine knives, and considering the price differential (40.34 USD compared to 175 USD), I figure it's worth taking a look.

Unsheathed, the Kabar kukri is actually pretty close to the same size as the 18" WWII model from HI.

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The blade is 11.5" long, and the overall length is 17". It is much lighter than the HI, weighing only 1.26 pounds. It's not actually a Khukuri, of course, just a similarly shaped knife. I have to say, I really like it. Many people do not like the Kraton handles. While the shape makes it somewhat hard to throw, I find it comfortable, and easy to chop with. I really don't see this knife as being a utility blade, however. Pick it up, and it is immediately obvious that you're holding a combat knife, not a all-around chopper.

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The knife is 1.5" wide at the thinnest part, and a whopping 3" wide at the thickest point. The point is wickedly sharp. The Kabar, unlike the HI, comes sharp enough to shave with out of the box. That's actually an interesting detail. My hair is actually probably between 3 and 8 times thicker than that of anyone else I've ever met. I have only ever been able to shave with actual razors meant for shaving. I have never been able to shave with a knife or a sword blade. And I've tried with every single one of my collection, which numbers over 40 by now. The Kabar kukri was the first blade that was actually able to give me a shave. It was surprisingly decent too; not as close as my usual 4 bladed razor, but about as good as my electric razor. So, when I say it comes sharp, you know what I mean.

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The blade is covered in a black coating which is extremely durable. I tried to scratch it off to see how well it would wear, and it is HARD to get off. Again, another sign that this blade is designed for combat. No telltale gleam to give away your position as you're sneaking up to take down a sentry.

For some reason, most people hate the handle, which is made out of Kraton, which has a bit of a rubbery feel. The Kraton scratches pretty easily, but I found the handle design quite comfortable, even when chopping. Other people have not found it comfortable.

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The sheath also tends to be unpopular. Mine has held up to quite a bit of abuse with minimal wear and tear.

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The one thing I don't like is that there's only a right-hand sheath, and as a left-handed person, I have to go custom to get a left-hand sheath. Those don't usually come cheap.

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Still, I like the snap closure; it reminds me a lot of my Chinese broadsword, and it keeps the blade nice and secure. It also has a ring on the bottom to allow me to tie my sheath to my leg.

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As for cutting, the Kabar kukri cut better than any other blade that I own, aside from my broadsword. It cut through the cardboard box as if it was butter, with minimal effort. While the HI Khukuri tore the edges up, the Kabar makes a nice clean cut. It can also stab really easily.

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I also tried it on the same piece of seasoned wood, and to my surprise, it cut really well, and held its edge nicely. The blade is made out of 1085 carbon steel, which isn't bad, although the grind on the knife is hollow ground, which is not ideal.

However, I will remark that when I took it out and did some throwing with it, it got pretty beat up, and the blade did end up getting notched. I don't think that the HI will end up notching. The HI is certainly far more durable. The Kabar is much thinner, measuring only 1/8", meaning the HI is 3 times thicker:

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I am really not prepared to say which I like better. To be honest, I love both of these knives, and will use them both. If I'm going out camping and I want an indestructable chopper, I'm going to use the HI, no questions asked. I feel pretty confident it will hold up better to serious cutting, while the Kabar seems more suited to lighter clearing and tasks, although I have no doubt it could hold up to most abuse. However, if I ever need to defend my home or my life, and I'm going for a combat knife, the Kabar Kukri is far and away the best large fighting knife I have ever held. I simply love it. Kabar makes fighting knives, and that's true of their Kukri. HI knives seem much more suited to everyday work, although it would make a formidable weapon.

Ultimately, I think that which knife you buy should really depend on what you want from your knife. If you want a fighting knife, I much prefer the Kabar (and in fact bought another one, so I could practice with two). But if you want a utility knife, or a beautiful display piece that's eminently functional and will last forever, HI really lives up to its reputation.

Thanks for reading. Please feel free to ask any questions, provide feedback (positive or negative), and answer the questions I had, since most of you know more about these wonderful knives than I do. Cheers!
 
Excellent review. You are correct in saying the the HI is a chopper, that's where I've seen mine really shine was when we had a large wind storm come through and knock down a big branch off my tree. The clean up was easy with the HI and I was amazed at how well it did with such a large task.
 
Nice review, you obviously took some time forming your ideas and I like the fact you posted all those pictures. I appreciate the time you put into your post.

I own several HI's and they are for the most part pure choppers. If your looking for more of a fighting khuk from them you need to look at the cobra's or Sirupiti's (forgive my spelling) they are thinner and lighter and I found them more suited as a fighting knife. I would consider my 22" duri churra a fighter but its one heck of a chopper:thumbup::D

Here's mine under a FFBM (Fat Fusion Battle Mistress by Busse)
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Personally given a choice I dont prefer craton as I dont like the feel but I certainly dont hate it. I just think there are better knife handle options out there for comfort.

As for your cardboard cutting. The grinds on both knives are verry different and the way they cut are different. I noticed my HI's send chips and bite very differently into wood than a flat or hollow ground knife, something that takes getting used to but is very nice as I dont get a stuck blade often.
 
Hey, thanks for the feedback and replies. Sorry in advance for the wall of text. I can't bring myself to do anything other than a detailed response.

So, a few more points.

1. Dullness.
One thing I found out on another forum is that evidently it's fairly common for the HI to come quite dull, as was the case with mine. When I received it, it couldn't cut much of anything, much less chop wood.

2. Handles
As far as the handles go, I'm told that the Kabar is supposed to tear up your hands under heavy chopping. I haven't experienced that yet, but then, I usually wear Mechanix gloves when I'm out and about (especially now when it's cold), so I haven't encountered that issue yet. I could see the ridges on the handle tearing up your skin a bit, however. I think the handle would probably be fine with a leather wrapping, much like on a traditional Kabar fighting knife handle.

3. Further chopping tests.
Wood:
I spent some time with both knives over the holidays doing some chopping for firewood, and on lighter woods like pine and aspen, I noticed that both knives did a fine job of chopping, and didn't lose their edge. I had to do a very minimal touch up. The HI edged out the Kabar in the chopping, because it's just got more heft, but I was really pleased with edge retention on both knives. You are absolutely right about the edge on the HI. I could not, for the life of me, get it stuck in a piece of wood (and I tried fairly hard). The Kabar sticks quite well, thrown or struck, which I imagine could be a problem for chopping tasks on harder objects.

Meat:
The other test that I used the knives for over the holidays was in chopping up and sectioning an elk. The Kabar was a LOT more efficient at cutting through meat, although the HI proved more effective at dealing with joints. That was a lot harder abuse than I think the knives are probably meant to take, but they're supposed to be fine fighting knives, and that means you will encounter some bones.

4. Combat uses and maneuverability:
The HI really has been growing on me however, partially because it's such a gorgeous knife, and partly because it's a very comfortable knife to wield. And because it's nearly indestructible. I come from a sword-fighting background, and am used to wielding Chinese broadswords (dao), so the 2 pound blade-heavy heft of the Khukuri feels quite natural to me.

The HI moves quite nicely, and I have no doubt that it would be very effective in a combat situation. But it's clearly designed for chopping and hacking over thrusting, which can be a bit of a detriment for a fighting knife. The Kabar, in contrast, is a great stabbing weapon, and will leave a fight-ending GIANT hole in your target. Penetration on a thrust with the HI is...problematic. The HI is, of course, far more durable than the Kabar, which I've discovered will chip rather than roll under really hard abuse, and that's not ideal.

I still think both of these knives have their place; the thinner blade, sharper point, and hollow grind on the Kabar give it a much better profile for lighter cutting tasks, such as cardboard or meat. The HI is pretty terrible at the aforementioned, but was great on hard cutting tasks. Edge retention was good in both cases, even on soft woods, but on harder tasks, the Kabar edge chipped, while the HI just shrugged it off.

I wonder if I could get HI to make me a khukuri with a slightly thinner blade, but with the same blade profile and point as the Kabar...
 
Nice review. My first, and still favorite HI, is an 18" WWII. I've had it for 7-8 years and it's still going strong. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better chopper (that wasn't an axe) for the price.

Frank
 
great review & something i can appreciate as i have just received a fantastic siegle kukri in 5160 . hopefully i will get to use it this weekend. i understand that for a right handed person the correct cutting is swinging the blade away from yourself, in essence right handed swing from left to right in cutting strokes. this means one is swinging away from yourself. also it means learning new muscle memory so i imagine it will be sometime before even rudimentary skill is developed. this is fine since i intend to take my 9.75 siegle chopper for swinging cuts from right to left. thanks for your input.
dennis
 
Very nice thoughtful review. Its nice when someone puts this much thought into what they are doing.

Some things for you to consider. To start with, kukri comparisons are very difficult even for experienced users. In this case it is very difficult to draw any conclusions because this was really an apples and oranges kind of comparison. On one hand you have a traditional Nepalese military issue kukri and on the other hand you have a modern machined kukri machete. The important word being "machete." A kukri machete is not a kukri, it is a machete that draws upon the blade shape of a kukri. Important distinction. So it would be like doing a dove hunting comparison using a shotgun and a pistol.

To make it more difficult you could have compared the HI WWII kukri with the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri but even there you would run into the fact that one is a traditional model while the CS is modern and machined. The HI is made in such a way that the steel has three hardness ratings, very hard at the edge and softer in the middle and even softer at the spine. This is done so the edge maintains its sharpness and the body of the kukri can absorb the stress of hard blows. The Cold Steel is made from one piece of steel with the same hardness and a uniform wedge shape which gets caught in wood easier than the traditional models.

Now lets make it harder. Even if you compare traditional Nepalese kukris it can still be apples and oranges. If you were to compare a Sirupate with an Ang Khola you are talking about a sword and an ax. The sirupate has a long slender, thinner blade that lends itself as more of a weapon and a machete while the AK is a big heavy brute designed to do heavy farm work.

Lastly, to make it even more difficult, if you were to buy an Ang Khola from 5 different companies you would end up with 5 very different looking and feeling kukris. You would not believe the difference in a tourist Ang Khola and one made by a village blacksmith that knows the person that will use it. Same model but you still end up with apples and oranges!

I believe the best way to make comparisons is to use models that are marketed to do a specific job and then give them an equal chance to show their stuff. Apples to apples. That way a model doesn't get beat or look bad because it is being asked to do a job it wasn't intended to do. In this case a kukri is designed to go through heavy material such as wood while a machete is designed to cut vegitation. Both "can" do the other job but both would look bad doing it.

The fun part is trying different models and finding one that sings to you! And trust me, when you find the right one for you, NOTHING else will ever come close! Good luck on your search.

Bill
Virginia
 
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Bill,

Thanks very much for your comments. I absolutely agree, and in testing, it's very obvious that they're made for different tasks (and even what kind of tasks). That being said, I imagine that there are a lot of people who don't really know that much about what they're getting into, and perhaps don't have the money to buy a number of different models to compare. They're mainly interested in a knife with the blade shape of the Kukri. Unless you're already in the know, you may think that they're all basically the same, and it's not until you actually get them and do some testing that you realize how specialized they are. So I ended up getting one of the real khukuri that everyone recommends, and one of the Kabar ones to see what the differences are between a machined one and a real one made by a master kami. I figure the ones they sell in those gift shops to tourists are not really worth buying.

It really was interesting to see how the knives performed at different tasks. I had the impression that a Khukuri is supposed to be a good utility knife, although obviously designed for chopping. I do think that the dove hunting example isn't really fair, because they have similar designs, and they're both designed for chopping tasks (main differences being blade material, thickness, and edge profile). The pistol/shotgun sounds more like a folding knife versus a Kukri, for instance. I'd be more inclined to say that it's more like, say, comparing a Winchester Model 70 stock to a custom built rifle built on the same platform by a master gunsmith.
 
I think the key is to have fun on the journey! I waited a long time before getting a kukri, although I have no idea why, and then acquired a "couple of them." Then you embark on the quest to find the perfect kukri for you......
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One thing that is important to consider is that while both are formidable tools, when used outside their niche they can be dangerous.

Many people swing a kukri wildly like a machete or an ax and don't realize that it can cut through much larger branches than imagined. When it comes out the other side it still has lots of momentum and is difficult or impossible to stop before it hits your leg or other arm. On the other hand, people use machetes like a kukri and don't realize that all steel isn't the same and machetes can shatter with devastating results. In one case a heavy kukri being used as a machete can (and often does) cause injury and, a machete bring used as a kukri can (and often does) fail.

I just wanted to share some of the misconceptions and mistakes that I made because labels like "kukri machete" can be misleading. A quick search on youtube will show how many people think the various brands of kukri machetes are real kukris and use them that way, not knowing they are playing a dangerous game with their own safety.

I always like to say that I can do most of the tasks that a kukri and a machete can do using a sharpened lawn mower blade and a duck tape handle. That is a true statement but of course you would destroy your hands, use much more energy, be less efficient and skyrocket safety concerns. The right tool for the right job!

Both of the blades you have are very good, hope you enjoy them.
Bill
Virginia
 
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That picture just made my day. Maybe you could tell me which are your favorites thus far in a PM or something.

Very good points about safety. I hadn't really thought about that. My understanding is that, unlike some other knives, you should swing with a relatively loose grip so the blade can swing into the target, for want of a better word, and naturally you want to avoid a swing that would potentially carry the blade into a part of your body. I use mine very much like I would a Chinese broadsword, swinging across the body. Is that correct technique? So far it's been quite safe for me, but I'd rather learn from someone else experience than injure myself... Thanks again for the input, and for sharing your beautiful collection. What/who are the manufacturers represented?
 
I wish I could find the video of a Nepalese man chopping with his kukri. He was sitting or kneeling with the branches out in front of him on top of a bigger log. Instead of making a big SWING, he made lots of smaller chops that went straight down, not an arching swing that ends up back at you. He basically just used the weight and momentum of the blade to do the work. The best way to describe it is to think to yourself; chop, chop, chop, chop, instead of thinking CHOP! You will be amazed when you see that you get almost the same penetration with 25% of your effort as you do with 90% of your effort. Plus you don't get blisters or get tired and it is about a million times safer. Another thing that doesn't come right to mind is that by going slower you improve your aim by a thousand percent and pick and choose your strikes much better. The result is that you make far fewer chops even though you are hitting much lighter. I know someone is thinking (Bullsh-t) right now but go out and try it just like I did after watching that video!

All this really doesn't matter if you are cutting two small branches in your yard or doing a quick video review but, in a survival or camping situation the last thing you want is a hand blister or any wound for that matter. And it really matters if you plan to do a weekends worth of work. Watch some of the videos of people chopping wildly and you can see them blow their wad in a matter of minutes and already start to get winded and have hand fatigue or blisters.

As for my favorites from the photo that is easy. The Tora Bhojpure, HI Bonecutter and CS Gurkha kukri are the stand out favorites for real heavy work. One of them is always with me. (I work on a large forested property and use it daily) In winter I usually keep the CS with me so I don't have to worry about handle cracks in the cold, even though I doubt anything would happen to the others. It actually gets to the point to where I have to do a particular job and reach for the kukri that wants to go to work that day. That way they all get some exercise!

For carry, I use the NKH jungle and the Tora Pattern One, which is an older model of the current issue that is slightly longer but much much better handling. The Pattern One is far superior in build, design and fit and finish but both get the job done.

The old MKII's are my absolute favorite but I can't get anyone to "correctly" make a new one to use and I can't force myself to use one of my old ones. They fought their war and deserve a rest... Most of the others in the photo looked good when I ordered them but in the hand aren't for me. The other one that is special is the Blackjack Reinhardt Combat Kukri (top right corner). They aren't made anymore and are getting rare so I don't use it. But man does that thing sing when you pick it up!

Bill
Virginia
 
Great review and good read!

Both are great knives.

I have been working in Cambodia the last 9 months, patrolling in the Cardamon mountains.

For the first 6 months I carried a 18" HI Kukri, and it worked well and did all I asked of it.

One of the ex-pat biologist who frequently does research in our area, has been using the Ka-Bar Kukri over the last year for his excursions and he has nothing but good things to say about it and has held up well for him.

I believe the kukri design works best for this environment. Proven.

Don't think you can go wrong with either one.
 
The Cold Steel is made from one piece of steel with the same hardness and a uniform wedge shape which gets caught in wood easier than the traditional models.

Someone was kind enough to make a new video about this "one and only" issue I have ever had with the CS Gurkha Kukri.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vdb80RFHQ0

I believe he would benefit from a little oil or WD-40 on his blade but, this video very nicely shows how perfectly machined wedge shaped blades (like machete blades) get caught in wood and make a lot more work. It takes twice as much energy taking the kukri out of the wood as it does to chop and you can see that it breaks up any kind of rhythm. Notice how this guy uses a nice easy controlled swing that is very safe and effective.

The Gurkha kukri also lacks a bit of belly weight that you find in models such as the AK's, M43's, Bhojpures, Bonecutters, etc., but not so much that it is problem except in the heaviest of tasks. (Ok, that was sort of a second issue but I don't mind this one because the lighter weight and excellent secure-ex sheath make carrying it a dream compared to others. This is a known and exceptable tradeoff for me.) This is where the traditional kukri with its convex (ax) grind explode the wood as the blade digs into the material. I also believe that the hammer marks and imperfections that come with hand made blades also help to keep the blade from getting stuck.

Bill
Virginia
 
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Nice review!:thumbup:
I would like to add a few minor details to all the great comments here.

The HI WWII handle (and that of the karda and the chakma) appear to be made of Satisal/saatisal (Dalbergia retusa, Indian rosewood), or Sheesham/shisham/sissoo (Dalbergia sissoo, frequently sold also as Indian rosewood). It is a hard, durable and beautiful wood, well suited for carving.

The HI khukuries are intentionally made a little bit thicker than most of the traditional khukuries intended for combat. When Uncle Bill started importing khukuries from Nepal, most of his customers were using these khukuries for outdoor/camping/survival purposes. Also, Uncle Bill wanted the HI khukuries to be better built than some cheapo tourist khukuries and wanted these knives to be used hard. Thats why the HI khukuries are kind of overbuilt, they are thicker and can handle a lot of hard use which would be an abuse for thinner blades. Many HI models are built to do he work of hatchets or small axes, and they do perform very well in that role.
And since imitiation is the best way of flattery, many other businesses, like Tora and KH started selling khukuries which are built thicker than the most of the traditional ones were. If you have a strong and durable modern khukuri useable for woodcraft/bushcraft, you can thank Uncle Bill, Yangdu and HI for that trend.:thumbup:

The HI WWII was always made with a distinctive "rounded" tip (some individual knives might be pointier though), which is not conductive for thrusts. None of the khukuries are true thrusting knives (they are not daggers or rapiers), but some are better at it (like the Sirupaties or the HI Kobras), and others are less so (Ang Kholas and HI WWII).
On the upside, the more rounded tip makes these knives stronger at their tips, so you can use even the tip of the WWII for some efficient chopping which would damage the tip of a Sirupati for example.

The HI WWII are great all-arounder tools: heavy enough to do some serious chopping but light enough to carry them around.

The reason why most of the HI khukuries arrive with an realtively dull edge is that different people prefer different edges (just like with axes), and that putting a really thin edge on an already polished blade (the polishing would dull an initially sharp edge) would require additional labor and would make the knives even more expensive. Yet another reason would be, that a really sharp edge would more likely damage the scabbard during the long shipment from Nepal to the US, and from Yangdu to the customers.
Even so, time to time you see DOTD khukuries with split scabbards . The kamis can make sharp khukuries, as attested by many sharp knives sold by Yangdu, but the AKs and the WWIIs, which are meant for heavier chopping usually arrive with a duller edge.

For more info and advice regarding efficient chopping, holds and most importantly, safety, please read the stickies plus the older threads on the HI Forum (and the HI Forum Archives!). A tons of interesting stuff and a feed for your new addiction ("Resistance is futile, you have been assimilated!") :D

Welcome to the HI family!

littleknife
 
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Thanks for all the excellent information everyone! This thread is becoming full of very useful information. I'm definitely glad I have 2 different styles to use, however. The HI is still holding an edge nicely, but I haven't tried putting an edge on it that would make it sharp enough to cut paper. Does great on wood; it really is amazing how it just doesn't stick.
 
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