- Joined
- Aug 6, 2010
- Messages
- 73
Hello again,
I'm still looking for a decent knife for throwing (or a set, better yet.) I've seen a couple of pics of the Gil Hibben knives--I've been told that these are
actually considerably good. Never tried them, though, well..I was gonna buy a set but the retailer sold all it had before I had a chance. That was about a year--or more ago. They looked a bit short and light for my particular style. I practice spin, no-spin, short and mid-range. My absolute limit (for me) is about ten yds (with full accuracy). I'd been using a gerber prodigy--and often
ending up sticking through most of my targets including a clean, chainsaw cut circle of soft pine. I lost it unfortunately.
That was one good, reliable
knife. (A pain to hone the edge though, but reliable) (Hated the sheath).
I've also looked at the Colt models (they have rubber handles). Cold Steel (too expensive for just one in my own humble opinion). I've not had any luck at all so far.
Now, I'm still trying to find a good set of quality throwers. I have learned so far:
Scales/handles WILL come off..the shock of impact always loosens them.
Don't use thin knives. They will snap (and sometimes rebound--yep, I got popped a couple of times--hurts.)
Cord-wrapped handles (if done properly) tend to give a better grip and tend to add weight (if you prefer to throw from the handle, like myself).
A thicker point is a more durable point--a trade-off between sticking the target more frequently and having to buy another knife (I prefer a thicker point--the prodigy often stuck quite well..)
Hammer-grips, palm/thumb grips, and underhanded-grips suit me the best.
Softer steel is more effective for throwers than hard-steel (hehe..found that out the hard way.)
Please, anyone with experience or knowledge, please let me know--ugh..I hate having to walk back and forth from the target with just one knife--it's so boring and demoralizing.
Oh, also, for anyone interested. At thirty feet, with a gerber prodigy, I often
sank the knife into the target an average of eight times out of ten. What times the blade missed, the glass-breaker didn't.. It actually split a pine
block right down the center once. Right in half. That knife is certainly not made for throwing, but I wanted to learn a year ago, and that's all that I had,
and so that's what I learned with. I'd not suggest using an expensive knife like that for throwing, I did because it's what I had, and the rubber skin on it
was easy on my hands and fingers. Still don't like that sheath.
Thank you in advance for any help, as always, I appreciate any help or comments.
DS..
I'm still looking for a decent knife for throwing (or a set, better yet.) I've seen a couple of pics of the Gil Hibben knives--I've been told that these are
actually considerably good. Never tried them, though, well..I was gonna buy a set but the retailer sold all it had before I had a chance. That was about a year--or more ago. They looked a bit short and light for my particular style. I practice spin, no-spin, short and mid-range. My absolute limit (for me) is about ten yds (with full accuracy). I'd been using a gerber prodigy--and often
ending up sticking through most of my targets including a clean, chainsaw cut circle of soft pine. I lost it unfortunately.
That was one good, reliableknife. (A pain to hone the edge though, but reliable) (Hated the sheath).
I've also looked at the Colt models (they have rubber handles). Cold Steel (too expensive for just one in my own humble opinion). I've not had any luck at all so far.
Now, I'm still trying to find a good set of quality throwers. I have learned so far:
Scales/handles WILL come off..the shock of impact always loosens them.
Don't use thin knives. They will snap (and sometimes rebound--yep, I got popped a couple of times--hurts.)
Cord-wrapped handles (if done properly) tend to give a better grip and tend to add weight (if you prefer to throw from the handle, like myself).
A thicker point is a more durable point--a trade-off between sticking the target more frequently and having to buy another knife (I prefer a thicker point--the prodigy often stuck quite well..)
Hammer-grips, palm/thumb grips, and underhanded-grips suit me the best.
Softer steel is more effective for throwers than hard-steel (hehe..found that out the hard way.)
Please, anyone with experience or knowledge, please let me know--ugh..I hate having to walk back and forth from the target with just one knife--it's so boring and demoralizing.
Oh, also, for anyone interested. At thirty feet, with a gerber prodigy, I often
sank the knife into the target an average of eight times out of ten. What times the blade missed, the glass-breaker didn't.. It actually split a pine
block right down the center once. Right in half. That knife is certainly not made for throwing, but I wanted to learn a year ago, and that's all that I had,
and so that's what I learned with. I'd not suggest using an expensive knife like that for throwing, I did because it's what I had, and the rubber skin on it
was easy on my hands and fingers. Still don't like that sheath.
Thank you in advance for any help, as always, I appreciate any help or comments.
DS..
.. Yea, I've hit hardwood, concrete, rock, glass, you name it--when I first started training, I probably hit all sorts of things missing. Nothing will ruin a thrower quicker than one of those. Some will even make a knife rebound! (My reflexes have saved me a couple of times.) Ah, if anyone is looking for Gil Hibben knives, I'd personally try smkw.com, budk.com, or knifecenter.com. Hmmm..I'm guessing I need something in the 8-to-10 in. overall length range (much like my old prodigy). As much as I have tried, I have not been able to accurately throw a short knife, atleast not at long range. Yeah, one cold steel is about the same price as a set of others, and doesn't seem to come with a sheath (better knife, certainly, but I need a sheath and more than one 
(good exercise though). Also, if those knives can be used as a normal knife would be--all the better, I've never liked uni-taskers. Thank you all for the help and replies (and the pics too