Hidden horn features

Svashtar

Svashtar

Joined
Dec 28, 2003
Messages
4,793
Just a quick note: I was selling off just a few older items purely to finance several new goodies from HI and also to try out a blem from another mfr. (They have all sold, so this is not a sale thread!)

I have this matched set of Villagers that Uncle Bill got for me a while back, made by Sher. They both have smallish handles. One is an 18" 27 oz. WWII and the other an 18" 27 oz. AK. The AK is nice but for some reason I did not like it as much, so made the decision to sell it and keep the WWII.

Anyway, I always clean everything up before parting with them, as I don't want anyone to be disappointed. I polished up the metalwork, the brass chape, polished up the scabbard with black shoe polish and put some leather in the throat to tighten up the fit, etc.

The rough villager horn handle had a small blem in it, as rec'd, so I took some 1500 grit and polished it out. Then since that changed that area I just sanded the whole handle out. As I was sanding I noticed that the handle really started to lighten up dramatically.

As I kept going I started to see some really pretty streaks and grey horn. I got it where I wanted it, and then buffed it out with a sisal buff with tripoli compound and wow! This thing now shines with some of the prettiest grey horn I have ever seen. What a surprise.

I'm going to email the guy now and tell him that I hope he doesn't mind it, but instead of a plain black horn satin finished Villager handle, he now has a polished horn handle with lots of nice white and grey feathering in it. (-:

I kind of hope now he tells me to keep it! :D

Funny, that stuff has been sitting under that handle for 2 years, and I didn't know until 1/2 hour before it went into the shipping box.

I'm going to go check the WWII now, and am keeping my fingers crossed.


Norm
 
Sounds cool!! Always fun finding new things out about your knives. Good luck with your other khuk. Would you post pics if you can?

Heber
 
I'd been meaning to check this thread out. Glad I did. Yes, some beauty you didn't see coming. You have to love that.
And paying attention to small things, that turn into bigger things and you're happy again. Taking the time to polish out a handle and it rewards you.

I hope this isn't how the Moonies talked right before they became a cult.

munk
 
Norm,

I have found this with all my HI knives. Initially I started sanding the polish off of horn users because I think a matte finish is easier to grip. What I discovered was that after sanding there was a lot more figure to the horn. Then after treating with mineral oil it really POPPED! When I first got a wood handled khuk I did the same. I couldn't believe how much figure was under that polish. I mean it looked like a different piece of wood. Amazing. Now I sand and refinish all my handles. All of them pop when I'm done. I think there is a lot of extra rouge and dirt etc in the polish that builds up on the handles as they are polished. At least thats my experience.

Also, I've been using wet dry sandpaper to refinish my handles. This weekend I went to HD and noticed them selling scotchbrite pads in different abrasive grades. These pads give much better results. I was shocked and now have to resand all my handles because it is so pronounced. A labor of love. I can't impress on you how shocking the difference was. The flexibility of the scotchbrite pad is key to making the curves, ring, bolster, and pommell areas pop. I know this isn't a new concept, but I was taken back at the HUGE difference in results.
 
I've always used wet dry sandpaper, I've never seen scotch brite pads in different grits. I'd like to check out the local HD and try to find some; did you find them in the same part of the store as the sandpaper? Is the difference just the flexibility on shaped parts, or do they cut different than sandpaper, or load up less? Let's hear more details, please!
 
olpappy said:
I've always used wet dry sandpaper, I've never seen scotch brite pads in different grits. I'd like to check out the local HD and try to find some; did you find them in the same part of the store as the sandpaper? Is the difference just the flexibility on shaped parts, or do they cut different than sandpaper, or load up less? Let's hear more details, please!
Click to expand...

They were located with the sandpaper. They had a very course one dubbed a #2, then they went to an equal to "0" steel wool, and "000" steel wool. (HD was out of the "00" I guess) Yes you've got it. The flexibility on the curved parts was the key. It allowed a constant pressure over the area, and when I was done the horn was very well blended. Also, by cutting it into strips you can use a shoe shine motion with the knife in a vice. WOW. Its not so much that they load up less, but when loaded you can rinse and reuse. The color changes with each different abrasive, so they are easy to seperate. Also, online, I found that these are used extensively in body shops and come in lots of VERY fine grits. I have only scratched the surface at HD. On the way home today I'm stopping at an auto parts store to see what else I can find. That is where I usually buy my sandpaper anyway. I bet I can get a mirror polish with these. Thanks for the interest.:thumbup:
 
wildmanh said:
Sounds cool!! Always fun finding new things out about your knives. Good luck with your other khuk. Would you post pics if you can?

Heber
Click to expand...


Sure, be glad to Heber. Don't know if I will get lucky twice though!

Norm
 
aproy1101 said:
They were located with the sandpaper. They had a very course one dubbed a #2, then they went to an equal to "0" steel wool, and "000" steel wool. (HD was out of the "00" I guess) Yes you've got it. The flexibility on the curved parts was the key. It allowed a constant pressure over the area, and when I was done the horn was very well blended. Also, by cutting it into strips you can use a shoe shine motion with the knife in a vice. WOW. Its not so much that they load up less, but when loaded you can rinse and reuse. The color changes with each different abrasive, so they are easy to seperate. Also, online, I found that these are used extensively in body shops and come in lots of VERY fine grits. I have only scratched the surface at HD. On the way home today I'm stopping at an auto parts store to see what else I can find. That is where I usually buy my sandpaper anyway. I bet I can get a mirror polish with these. Thanks for the interest.:thumbup:
Click to expand...


Andy, this is really good info, thanks. 99% of the scotch brite pads I have are the regular green ones, but I also have a few black and one red. Do you remember how those correspond to the green and sanding grits?

The shoe shine motion is how I usually do it, but as you pointed out in another post it does leave cross-grain marks that can be difficult to remove.

I'll share with you in return: the stuff I use for all the high-grit sanding is this micro-mesh cloth that has grit equivalents up to like 4 or 5 thousand. So I go from 600 grit to 1500 wet/dry to 2000 and then to the high-grit micro-mesh. You have to translate the grits, but their 1500 is equiv. to regular 600 grit I believe, and they go clear up to 12000 which is like 5000 grit paper. It is expensive though, and someone here posted a link a couple of years ago to a sculpting site that sells it. I have it listed at home.

The beauty of it is that it is washable and strong and easy to get into contours; much easier than sandpaper. It gives an incredible mirror finish, but for complete resanding I will go with your recommendation. I haven't done this regularly so will be anxious to find what's under some of my handle finishes.

I'll have to check out HD for the SB pads.

Thanks again for the great info.

Norm
 
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