Hidden lanyard loop and epoxy?

R

running bird

Joined
Sep 29, 2015
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I’m working on a blade with a hidden lanyard loop and the end of the tang. I have the cut outs in the handle scales shaped and I’m working on prepping handle pins/mating surfaces.

When I go to glue up the scales later what can I do to keep the epoxy from collecting in the cutouts for the lanyard? Should I brush some 3in1 oil on the area before glue up or is there a more clean method?

I don’t think there will be enough squeezing out to clog the lanyard hole or anything, but I don’t want it to look like a kindergarten construction paper project LOL. I’m trying to work on making handles more since I currently don’t enjoy making them as much as the rest of knife making. Even though this is a test knife for myself I want to try and do it right.


bonus question:

What ever happened to hidden lanyard loops? I remember seeing them a good bit more when I joined the forum back in ~2016. Was it a fad? Are they just not that practical for some reason? Do people just not find them appealing? I only really added one to this knife because I had a vague memory of a few posted here years ago and figured it would help me finish this handle, making the process a little more fun for me.


Kevin
 
q tips are your friend and a little compressed air helps
 
Last edited:
I do wipes with cloth and damp with mineral spirits. Not too much, I don't want it to wick down and compromise the seal. -Just enough
 
Another trick is to thread a piece of macrame cord through the loop hole immediately after gluing up the handle and pull it through. Follow with a piece dampened with alcohol to be sure to get all the resin.

BTW, alcohol is the solvent for uncured epoxy resin. Cheap denatured alcohol in gallon cans at the hardware store is what you want. It is usually an ethanol/methanol mix, which is fine for cleaning and thinning alcohol-based dyes. Kleen Strip and Sunnyside are two main brands.
Acetone is the solvent once cured.
 
I like to carefully cover areas that I don't want epoxy in with painters tape, cut to the small area. Tedious...but worth it. Also, WD40 is really gold on the qtips as a remover and acts as an inhibitor to the epoxy in the areas exposed (don't get any where you want good adhesion! ). Use it on the areas of concern after clamp up and before setting.

Best of luck!
John
 
liquid release agent for bedding a gun stock will quickly become your best friend here..
you brush it on in a few (3-4) coats let it dry between ... do your glue up
and the release agent peels of like thin cellophane ... keeping the epoxy from adhering where you don't want it to...
i can do a perfect take down knife with hidden tang ,using this stuff with great ease....(once the epoxy is cures i put the blade in a vise and gently tap the handle off
clean up is pulling the cellophane out of the hole /slot ...
 
Pinoy Knife said:
liquid release agent for bedding a gun stock will quickly become your best friend here..
you brush it on in a few (3-4) coats let it dry between ... do your glue up
and the release agent peels of like thin cellophane ... keeping the epoxy from adhering where you don't want it to...
i can do a perfect take down knife with hidden tang ,using this stuff with great ease....(once the epoxy is cures i put the blade in a vise and gently tap the handle off
clean up is pulling the cellophane out of the hole /slot ...
Click to expand...

It might be hard to get it out of the loop for the lanyard once glued up.
 
If the scales are Micarta would using acetone potentially damage the scales in that area? I have denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, and acetone.

Thanks for all the tips everyone
 
running bird said:
What ever happened to hidden lanyard loops? I remember seeing them a good bit more when I joined the forum back in ~2016. Was it a fad? Are they just not that practical for some reason? Do people just not find them appealing? I only really added one to this knife because I had a vague memory of a few posted here years ago and figured it would help me finish this handle, making the process a little more fun for me.


Kevin
Click to expand...
It's sabotaging easiness of lanyard choice.
 
daily_grind said:
Could someone link an example of a hidden lanyard loop? I searched and couldn't find anything (easily) ...
Click to expand...
Knight Owl Forge

Thread 'My method to make a Hidden Lanyard Loop with pics'

Hey fellow knife makers,

I personally never use lanyards... they generally just get in my way and I haven't ever lost grip on a knife while using it. That said, it is always nice to have the option to use one when the situation demands it. Therefore, I have been looking at various hidden lanyard loop designs. I have seen a couple different methods, some very similar to what I have done. The thing I like about the method I am sorting out is that it is relatively fast.

CZV8D2j.jpg


Step 1: Make the hole for the lanyard in the back of the tang. Be mindful of your...
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I ended up using some q-tips with acetone and wiped up the excess as it squeezed out of the scales and into the around the lanyard hole. Once it was tacky enough and no more squeezed out the cutout didn’t look too bad.

There is a tiny bit of epoxy showing at the bottom of the cut out but it’s not too bad. It’s only there because I made a minor goof up with the Dremel so epoxy collected there. The loop for the lanyard is nice and clear.

The lanyard loop on this blade is rectangular, solely because I wanted to also get a tiny bit more practice slotting guards evenly. So I shaped the loop as if I were making a guard out of the end of the tang. We’ll see if that helps or hurts how well it works, but it was good practice.

I was about to add pictures but I see what I remember being “pictures” is actually “picture”… only one after I tested the fit up before gluing… at least you can kinda see the lanyard loop if you zoom in
https://imgur.com/a/ZDm1OQV
 
running bird said:
I ended up using some q-tips with acetone and wiped up the excess as it squeezed out of the scales and into the around the lanyard hole. Once it was tacky enough and no more squeezed out the cutout didn’t look too bad.

There is a tiny bit of epoxy showing at the bottom of the cut out but it’s not too bad. It’s only there because I made a minor goof up with the Dremel so epoxy collected there. The loop for the lanyard is nice and clear.

The lanyard loop on this blade is rectangular, solely because I wanted to also get a tiny bit more practice slotting guards evenly. So I shaped the loop as if I were making a guard out of the end of the tang. We’ll see if that helps or hurts how well it works, but it was good practice.

I was about to add pictures but I see what I remember being “pictures” is actually “picture”… only one after I tested the fit up before gluing… at least you can kinda see the lanyard loop if you zoom in
https://imgur.com/a/ZDm1OQV
Click to expand...

Idk why, but before I opened your picture, I figured the slot went the Other way.... :)

Did you make sure to soften that slot edge with a bevel so the lanyards don't wear away and fray?

I think it's an interesting feature, good job.
I usually just do an oversized flared tube, but still prefer to leave them off
*not a lanyard guy
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Idk why, but before I opened your picture, I figured the slot went the Other way.... :)

Did you make sure to soften that slot edge with a bevel so the lanyards don't wear away and fray?

I think it's an interesting feature, good job.
I usually just do an oversized flared tube, but still prefer to leave them off
*not a lanyard guy
Click to expand...
I did. I also don’t really use lanyards but I feel like I need to add them anyways for most knives
 
running bird said:
I did. I also don’t really use lanyards but I feel like I need to add them anyways for most knives
Click to expand...

It's really hard making knives for what We want, vs. What other people might want....
I know, I might not choose the most popular thing
 
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