hidden tang deer crown handle?

K

Kirk McGuire

Joined
Jan 27, 2005
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1
This is my first time making a knife! But I'am a bronze sculptor, and craftsman,and I have drill press,air compressor,and various air tools,grinders etc. I just bought a 7 1/2" slogien carbon steel bowie blade from Texas knifemakers supply. Anyhow I'am casting a bronze bowie hilt I sculpted for it.
The piece of blacktail deer horn I have is 4 1/2" with my bronze hilt the handle will be approx. 5" what is the best way to construct this horn handle with the hidden tang? The tang doesn't have any pin holes in the flat body part of the tang, but has a 10/24 thread at the end. I also bought the appropriate brass end nut. My Idea was to first drill a hole the size of the threaded tang end all the way through the length of the deer horn crown piece. Then countersink the hole for the tang nut in the crown end. Next drill from the hilt end of the horn just far enouph for the flat wider part of the tang to fit. Also could it be possible to drill a pin hole in the flat part of the tang first? Then I thought I could epox. the tang hole then put it all together, with a screw pin through the side of the deer horn, and tang.

Any Ideas or suggestions?

My deer horn is kinds curved, and I'am worried I will drill out the side of it. How can I do a staight hole as well?

Many Thanks!

Kirk

kirkmcguire@yahoo.com

My sculpture at: http://www.kirkmcguire.com
 
I don't know ho you will do with knives but you are a kick ass sculptor!!
 
I do threw tangs all the time in crowns that are curved. You have to drill from the front and the back. You also have to shape the tang by heating it and bend it to match the curve of the horn. Here's one that I did that should help you.
PDRM0957.JPG

PDRM0958.JPG
 
Well Kirk....as someone else stated...your sculpture is kick ass.

On the other hand Raymonds knifemaking skills are kick ass.

With Raymonds help you can certainly have a kick ass knife. I wanna see what kinda hardware you have casted for the blade in question. I have no doubt it will be good stuff

Doc
 
If you can do that with bronze, a knife should be little trouble for you!

Anouther way to do the crown handle is similar to Ray's, but without the through tang construction. Just make the tang about 2/3's to 3/4 the length of the crown and drill the spongy center out and fit the tang to the crown. You may have to heat and bend the tang one way or anouther to fit, and you may have to enlarge the hole in the stag a little. After it fits good simply glue everything up with a quality epoxy and if you want a little more authenticity drill a 3/32"-1/8" hole through the stag and tang and pin with a brass rod for a little added strength. I generialy prefere this methoud as it leaves the ball of the crown intact.

Good luck and be sure to post a pic when you get done.
 
Should you decide to use a pin, and find the tang hardened, a drill bit known as a "Hi Roc" will work. They can be found through a place like MSC Industrial Supply. Expensive, but effective. Alternatively, you could try a cheaper carbide-tipped masonry bit.
 
If you decided to drill the tang and its been hardened wrap the blade in a wet rag and heat the tang up to soften it and send the money to me you'd spend on the drill bit.......
 
"Well Kirk....as someone else stated...your sculpture is kick ass."

That sculpture is Uh...what he said.
 
Now what would possibly make you think that a metal sculptor might have a torch to do that with, Raymond? ;)

Guess I needed another cup of coffee before I offered any advice! DOH! I'll be quiet now..... :)
 
Kirk! I loved your sculpture site! super work! We need more artists fooling about with knives I think; it's a good combination. Knife making of course is a craft with an artistic element: not an art. Most of what I see touted as an "art knife" is simply an over embelished knife; as if the more you spend on engraving and materials, the more artistic liscense you've given yourself. Anyway, we all want to see where you go with this.
As for your question, I found over at the "other" knifemaker's site, a great thread for this little tool.... It's made by Milwaukee Tools and it's called a "pathfinder" wood boring bit. I've bought two of'em from W.W. Grainger.
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26149

regards, mitch
 
Bits like those described in Mitch's link are also made by the Bad Dog Tool Company. They call their model "Rover Bits" (link below). I got a set of them at a woodworking show a couple years ago. The 1/4" smallest size is $12.00 + shipping individually from the Bad Dog website.

http://www.baddogtools.com/roverbitinfo.htm

These bits come with a lifetime guarantee. From their site: "Bad Dog Rover Bits are covered by a Lifetime Satisfaction Guarantee. We will repair or replace any Rover Bits that becomes dull or damaged. Return the bit(s) along with $5 USD per Rover Bit for shipping and handling. Please note: weight constraints limit replacement of Rover Bits to mail only. Sorry, they cannot be replaced at trade shows."

I also use the Bad Dog carbide-tipped twist drill bits (my bit of choice for abusive drilling jobs) and their abrasive grinding/cut-off discs. I really like the 1/8" carbide-tipped bit for pre-drilling screwholes in wood. Bad Dog's customer service has been good in my experience. I wore a few abrasive discs down trying to cut titanium with an angle grinder. They sent me new replacement discs without question when I mailed them the washer-sized remains that were protected by the angle grinder's lock-down nut.

(edit to add) Raymond, thanks for posting those two pics of the consituent parts, then the completed stag handled knife. Like an exploded parts drawing, it shows nicely the before & after.
 
fitzo said:
Now what would possibly make you think that a metal sculptor might have a torch to do that with, Raymond? ;)

Guess I needed another cup of coffee before I offered any advice! DOH! I'll be quiet now..... :)
Click to expand...
Fatzo: You better pickup some JD and take a couple of hits. :D
 
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