Hidden Tang Hangups

C

Caveblades

Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Messages
7
I have a question for the more experienced hidden tang makers, and my apologies beforehand for my probably convoluted explanation:
I have been making full tang knives for several years now, but am trying to make the leap into some hidden tang pieces. So, I am trying to make a small recurve type bowie that will obviously have a curve to the handle. I realize that the tang itself which will need to be straight(?) and will be set at a slight angle in relation to the blade. I have designed it to be somewhere between half to two thirds the length of the handle.
1. Am I correct in thinking that when building the guard, I will need to cut the inside narrow sides of the guard at the SAME angle as the tang is in relation to the blade in order for it to sit flush against the shoulders?

2. Its seems to me that there is a high possibility of getting into the tang when shaping my handle (finger choils, curves, etc). and to avoid this, I had considered scalloping out the tang where these curves would be (before securing in the handle of course) in order to avoid this issue. Would doing this be a logical fix? Is there another solution that I am not seeing?

Are there any tips or advice that anyone could offer? I can provide my plan drawings of this blade if it would help
 
Yes,drawings would help a lot. I think you slot the inside,back side of the guard on the bottom to help with angle. How wide is the tang going to be? You could hear very carefully and then bend a little. Shoulders should have a radius to reduce stress rises. Will the guard be soldered to the tang? I would also put some notches on the tang and maybe some small holes to give the epoxy more to grab . Will it have pins ? Hope this helps. Wayne
 
There is no need for the tang to be straight.

Sketch the handle out on paper. Make a line straight down the center of the handle from the guard. Make a second line from the butt until it meets the first line. Draw in the tang width and curve. Mark these lines and the handle sketch on the block of wood ( or stag crown). Drill the holes from the ends following the outer lines for the hollow. Putting masking/electrical tape on the drill bit so you know when it has gone deep enough is a handy trick. andOnce all four lines have been drilled and the wood between them removed, wallow out the hole as needed until the curved tang will slide through. A trick here is to put black marker on the spine/edge sides of the tang and push in until they bind. Pull out and look at the spot work off. Set the tang on the outside sketch and mark where you need to widen the hole.

The second way is to cut the handle block in half and mortise out the handle until you can slide the tang in and out of the mortise. Then re-glue the handle and shape as normal. If you are worried about the joint showing (done well it won't), just use a center sprip of contrasting wood or G-10/Micarta. This will put a stripe the length of the handle. The three and five color laminates work well for ths, too.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
There is no need for the tang to be straight.

Sketch the handle out on paper. Make a line straight down the center of the handle from the guard. Make a second line from the butt until it meets the first line. Draw in the tang width and curve. Mark these lines and the handle sketch on the block of wood ( or stag crown). Drill the holes from the ends following the outer lines for the hollow. Putting masking/electrical tape on the drill bit so you know when it has gone deep enough is a handy trick. andOnce all four lines have been drilled and the wood between them removed, wallow out the hole as needed until the curved tang will slide through. A trick here is to put black marker on the spine/edge sides of the tang and push in until they bind. Pull out and look at the spot work off. Set the tang on the outside sketch and mark where you need to widen the hole.

The second way is to cut the handle block in half and mortise out the handle until you can slide the tang in and out of the mortise. Then re-glue the handle and shape as normal. If you are worried about the joint showing (done well it won't), just use a center sprip of contrasting wood or G-10/Micarta. This will put a stripe the length of the handle. The three and five color laminates work well for ths, too.
Click to expand...
Very helpful! Thank you Stacy!
 
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