High carbon fun. Please help.

M

mpj13

Joined
Oct 5, 2001
Messages
108
Well I just started last night on my first knife. I have a new respect for all the full time knife makers. I can't wait to finish my first one so I can start my second one. I bought some cobalt drill bits and they work great.

My first problem that I need some help with is...

What method should I use to cut out the steel? Other than buy a bandsaw (I plan on getting on in the future) I have only start for a little while. I have drilled some holes out and started using a hack saw, It seems to cut okay but it keeps binding up, the part were the hole is drill and the blade cuts through it catches the blade and makes it hard to cut. Do I need to buy a better blade to cut the steel? I am going to try and get a dremel It seems like I have heard this is goo for cutting through steel, is this true? Does any one have any suggestions on what I should do to cut out the steel. here are the tools I have to work with.

Bench grinder with stone wheel and flat disc
Drill with cobalt bits
Flat and round file, flat file is double cut
A cordless 5 1/2" circular saw
Hack saw with new fine tooth saw
Possibly a dremel if it has a goot cutting attachment
A lot of determination

If anyone can help with ideas or suggestions please let me know, I need help.
 
Jonesy indicated in one of his tutorials about simply drilling holes around the profile and using a hacksaw to connect the holes. That's about as simple as you can get and it really works!
 
Originally posted by TANGUS
Jonesy indicated in one of his tutorials about simply drilling holes around the profile and using a hacksaw to connect the holes. That's about as simple as you can get and it really works!
Click to expand...

I drilled some holes out the only problem is the blade is constantly binding up between the holes. I guess I need to get more practice with it. Thanks.
 
put a couple drops of cool tool on the holes when drilling it cuts faster and alot cooler
and use some thing to hold your blade down when it brackes through on the other side sometimes it will grab and pull the blade out of your hand and you have a cutting machine on your hands that will lay you open .Hope my input has helped a little
;)
 
I've cut them with everything you can imagine but one thing I STILL do is use a Skil saw with a metal cutting blade to get the rough profile. I file and grind to shape from there. Don't get hooked on power tools only. For cleaning up the profile and a lot of stock removal a file or files work wonders.
 
It take forever it seems, but I have been profiling with my bench grinder. Just have plenty of quinching water,respirator or wet rag around nose and mouth, and saftey glasses. I glued a piece of rubber onto the work rest on the grinder so that it doesnt gouge up the steel when you grind the curves.

Mark
 
A 4 1/2" angle grinder works pretty good. I used one till I got my bandsaw. H.F. has cheap one for $20.00.
 
Hmmm. Your Dremel with a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel would work good. Infact I was bored a couple of weeks ago and I had the one reinforced cutoff wheel that came with the my Dremel. I was able to cut an old lawnmower blade in half (2.5" - 3") in less than 2 minutes. (don't set the speed too high cause it will tear up the wheel quickly) If you play around with the settings you will find a happy medium between cutting speed and how fast the wheel wears out.

hope this helps,
~Drache~
 
The way you are doing it works fine except around the curved areas.I have found that if you wiill cut in from the side to the hole then cut that section out the blade wont bind up in the cyrve,I know it takes more work but it will work.If you drill the holes just as close together as you can a carbide cutting bit (tile cutter) will cut through the small webs very quickly and save you some time.
I use a 4 inch grinding disk myself for allot of real ruff grinding other wise I profile on my 2X27 or 4X36..Dont give up and you will get it and the satisfaction of completeing a knife by yourself,I took six months on my first Bowie by hand and I wouldn't trade a day of it..
Bruce
 
Originally posted by beknives
The way you are doing it works fine except around the curved areas.I have found that if you wiill cut in from the side to the hole then cut that section out the blade wont bind up in the cyrve,I know it takes more work but it will work.If you drill the holes just as close together as you can a carbide cutting bit (tile cutter) will cut through the small webs very quickly and save you some time.
I use a 4 inch grinding disk myself for allot of real ruff grinding other wise I profile on my 2X27 or 4X36..Dont give up and you will get it and the satisfaction of completeing a knife by yourself,I took six months on my first Bowie by hand and I wouldn't trade a day of it..
Bruce
Click to expand...

Thanks every one for all the great info. I think I'll try the dremel. One more question about using a dremel, at Sears I saw a diamond tipped cutting disc, would this wor better than the reinforced cutoff's?

Thanks Bruce, this is very encouraging. I won't give until I finish the knife, it may take awhile but it will be worth it when I'm done.

EDIT: Typo
 
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