High End Fighter Knife Makers - I need Advice, Please

Burl Source

Burl Source

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This wood is not for sale nor is this an attempt to sell.

I need advice before I cut this piece up. I know how I could cut this piece to yield the most blocks, but that is not what I want to do. My goal with this piece was for the majority of it to end up on high end bowies and fighters with sculpted handles. I want to be able to see knives with this wood years from now and be able to say "I remember that piece of koa, sure looks pretty on that knife".

My question is what size to cut the blocks?

A couple of my regulars usually want pieces cut 5&1/2" long x 2&1/2" wide x 1&1/2" thick.
If you make fighters with sculpted handles, does this sound about right to you?
or.......should they be a little longer? thicker? or........?

When I bought this piece, I paid more than I have ever paid per board, foot for any wood.
I bought it because I thought it looked really good and didn't think I would see another piece this nice.

I cut off a slice at 1&3/8" thick and sanded it to see what it looked like.
Turned out even better than I had expected. The slice in front is sanded to 220 grit and sprayed with a light coat of lacquer.
Before I cut the rest and send it to K&G for stabilizing I wanted to hear from you guys about dimensions.
I have to admit this piece has me a little bit intimidated.

I was hoping to hear from makers who make bigger fighters in the style of DH3, Nick Wheeler, Burt Foster, Russ Andrews & Mr White, to mention a few. Thank you in advance for the advice. If I did not mention your name it is because this piece makes me so I can't think straight.

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That size is about right. A block 1" thick is not enough for a sculpted handle. But that's my opinion.
 
Is the "slice" available...?
 
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For bowies, I prefer 5 1/4 X 2 X 1 1/4 or a bit larger. This size
allows me to adjust a bit to best show the wood.
 
I wasn't sure if the 1&1/2" thick and 2&1/2" wide was excessive or not.
So far it is sounding like it's not too far out of line.

I am always afraid I am going to cut blocks just a little to small to go on the really cool knives.
 
I tend to be greedy with premium bowie blocks. I want a massive chunk so that not only significant contouring, but significant drop and a flared butt cap are also easily accomodated. 6" by 3" by 2" is where I would want to be. I'd rather have a good deal more than I need than a little bit less than I need. A great many wood blocks that are routinely described as "bowie blocks" would never have served for a piece like this:

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Of course, I recently sent a 6/3/2 block to maker, and he managed to get not only a solid bowie handle out of it, but a bookmatched hunter handle as well...

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Oh, and that is a SERIOUSLY gorgeous hunk of wood. Keep me in the loop when you decide what you're doing with it. I could certainly maker sure a few hunks find their way onto high end bowies and fighters. :)

Roger
 
Mark,

5 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 1 3/8 is about a minimum for me, just a tad larger is nice, but not much, for a single knife.

John
 
1"x2"x5" is plenty for me. a 1/4" larger all around would be safe, anymore would be a waste of good wood. :)
 
Thank You Guys
I think you have answered or re-affirmed what I needed to know.
I will be cutting this up tomorrow. Now that I have some guidelines I can do things better.
Of course in the end, it us up to the wood. I will take one cut at a time and do what I can to cut the best fighter blocks I can from this piece.

A couple of you have asked questions about the wood. I will answer shortly.
Right now I am supposed to help closing this place for the night.
Thanks again for the great advice.
 
Burl Source said:
I was hoping to hear from makers who make bigger fighters in the style of DH3, Nick Wheeler, Burt Foster, Russ Andrews & Mr White, to mention a few. Thank you in advance for the advice. If I did not mention your name it is because this piece makes me so I can't think straight.
Click to expand...

First of all - great makers, and all guys I have owned multiple knives from. That said, it's not the size of the fighter, but the style of the handle that will dictate the dimensions needed. Russ and DH3 tend to make straighter handles that won't require as wide a block. Nick and Burt make more contoured handles with more drop, mandating a larger block. John does both.

Roger
 
It is a nice piece of wood.

Before you cut it up, or perhaps after you do

Why not offer it all for sale as one set?

Maybe somebody needs a matched set?
 
RogerP said:
First of all - great makers, and all guys I have owned multiple knives from. That said, it's not the size of the fighter, but the style of the handle that will dictate the dimensions needed. Russ and DH3 tend to make straighter handles that won't require as wide a block. Nick and Burt make more contoured handles with more drop, mandating a larger block. John does both.

Roger
Click to expand...
Good point, Roger. I also make fairly thin handles (side to side). And usually fossil ivory.:D

Your two knives from one block of that size (from your previous post) is very doable.:)
 
Also factor in the possibility that some makers might want to split the block in half and do a mortised handle so a little extra thickness would help.
 
Burl Source said:
....I know how I could cut this piece to yield the most blocks, but that is not what I want to do....I want to be able to see knives with this wood years from now and be able to say "I remember that piece of koa, sure looks pretty on that knife".....
Click to expand...

I'd also think the best stock would be carefully quarter sawn to get good side to side match of the grain pattern. Maybe, keep the grain running along the entire block and try not to have it run off the edge in the middle somewhere, so a maker can position it to flow with their design. Might end up with more in the scrap pile, but it could be a chance of ending up with that special something extra if the right folks can appreciate it.

Just thoughts, Craig
 
I was actually going to do a quick video in the shop showing why I prefer big blocks (even before you posted this thread Mark) as a plea to suppliers to provide more big blocks... because I think it's hard to get folks to understand just why you may need a 2-1/2" wide block to end up with a handle that's no where near that wide when it's done.

I think I'll do that soon Mark! :)

To answer you... I prefer 5-6" long, 2 to 2-1/2" wide, and 1"+ thick. I've made a very concerted effort to do sculpted, contoured, hopefully ergo/comfortable handles, and I can usually do just fine with 1" thick... but extra material rarely hurts anything!!! :)
 
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Don't listen to Wheeler. He wants you to cut blocks with enough materials for three handles because he won't be happy with the first two. ;-)
 
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