Hey all. I like doing knife projects, so I figured I would post my most recent one here and get some input. I got a few extra higonokamis in a shipping error, so I decided to use one for a project. The plan is to remove the blade, and use a piece of nice looking maple to make a new handle. Planning to try to make it out of one solid piece, but I have little experience in this.
Ground off one head of the pivot pin to remove the blade. The original scales are still like new. Eventually hoping to set it up so that I can swap between several sets of scales that I have at the ready. Hoping to do a set in DIY micarta and then in acrylic as well on a laster cutter, using standoffs. But those are in the future.
Sketched out the general design. Probably looks confusing if you weren't in my head when I drew it.
Cut the scale out and drew out the rough design again.
The shaded portions are areas where I plan to drill out the center of the wood to make room for the blade. The plan is to make a jig to align the center, and set the drill press to the proper depth. I think its the only tool I have that could accomplish the job. I will certainly take pictures of the jig when I make it.
The pink dot is where I am putting a brass stop pin. This will give the blade a point to hit in the closed position, and will also give the tang a place to hit in the open position. It will require a little bit of filing on the blade, but not much.
Here is a view of how much will be drilled out. Almost exactly 1/3 of the thickness of the scales.
Plan to update as I progress. Would appreciate any thoughts or insight you guys might have. As a friction folder strength is not a primary concern. I understand that non-stabilized maple is not durable when compared with micarta or steel or other composites, but it shouldnt be too big of an issue because of the small scale of the knife. Will probably do a CA finish on the inside pocket for a bit of extra strength and water resistance, and am planning a CA or oil finish for the outside. Also planning to polish the blade.
Ground off one head of the pivot pin to remove the blade. The original scales are still like new. Eventually hoping to set it up so that I can swap between several sets of scales that I have at the ready. Hoping to do a set in DIY micarta and then in acrylic as well on a laster cutter, using standoffs. But those are in the future.
Sketched out the general design. Probably looks confusing if you weren't in my head when I drew it.
Cut the scale out and drew out the rough design again.
The shaded portions are areas where I plan to drill out the center of the wood to make room for the blade. The plan is to make a jig to align the center, and set the drill press to the proper depth. I think its the only tool I have that could accomplish the job. I will certainly take pictures of the jig when I make it.
The pink dot is where I am putting a brass stop pin. This will give the blade a point to hit in the closed position, and will also give the tang a place to hit in the open position. It will require a little bit of filing on the blade, but not much.
Here is a view of how much will be drilled out. Almost exactly 1/3 of the thickness of the scales.
Plan to update as I progress. Would appreciate any thoughts or insight you guys might have. As a friction folder strength is not a primary concern. I understand that non-stabilized maple is not durable when compared with micarta or steel or other composites, but it shouldnt be too big of an issue because of the small scale of the knife. Will probably do a CA finish on the inside pocket for a bit of extra strength and water resistance, and am planning a CA or oil finish for the outside. Also planning to polish the blade.
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