Hinderer HMBS??

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Docscoot

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Nov 28, 2021
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I just received my first Hinderer Jurassic model, and it came with the HMBS doohickey and itty bitty nearly invisible screw just rattling around loose in the baggie. Edit: hex tool size is 0.05", good to know, hopefully now at least it won't back itself out again!

Now onto the real question, what the heck is this HMBS thing for? My understanding is there are additional add-on tool options, or backspacers that have things like lanyard holes or glass breakers integrated? Has anyone seen any of these out in the wild for the Jurassic? A quick internet search didn't turn anything up as available but thought I'd ask here. I think I like the idea, but not if it's only a hypothetical that some day hardware will become available.

Thanks BF!
 
From what I’ve heard and researched, you can add lanyard loops and possibly glass breakers. Hopefully with the new push of Jurassics, the HMBS’ will be more prevalent.

How do you like the new Jurassic? Magnacut? Impressions?
 
Boss5 said:
From what I’ve heard and researched, you can add lanyard loops and possibly glass breakers. Hopefully with the new push of Jurassics, the HMBS’ will be more prevalent.

How do you like the new Jurassic? Magnacut? Impressions?
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Ergos and build quality are fantastic, I imagine this will be really good for any heavy duty push cutting. I've already got it set up to full Ti, and the centering and action are perfect. Definitely thick behind the edge, even with the "slicer" blade variant, so I'm not sure how good a slicer it will be, but that's par for the course with Hinderer :-) Can't report on the steel yet since it's just day 1 for me, but I'm looking forward to seeing how it does given that I've heard some folks complaining about their Magnacut being soft, not sure if that's real or just RHK haters doing their thing.

I'd love to add a glass breaker, hopefully they become available! First I need to buy a 0.05" hex key since my smallest is 1/16th :) Definitely will want to take care with this set screw not to strip it out.
 
If you are going to get a 0.050" driver go to a hobby shop and buy one that is machined. It might cost you $5-7, but it will fit better and be less likely to strip out the screw. If you read Hinderer's policy they will not remove a stripped screw for you (see below). Just saying.

Services we do not offer:​

  • We will not change the original finish, so for example we won’t tumble a knife that was originally blasted
  • We do not do “custom” detent work, meaning we do not make detents lighter or stiffer, all folders are made to a certain spec, however it may not be absolutely perfect for “you”. An example would be for those of you that have trouble flipping your knife without using wrist, we do not stiffen detents. Or in the case of someone who finds the detent too stiff, we do not lighten them either.
  • We do not change or alter the lock bar engagement.
  • We do not do regrinds of any sort
  • We do not mark blade steel types after the knife has left the shop
  • We do not have a stripped screw removal service. Big boy rules apply, you strip it, you remove it.
  • We do not re-finish, or re-coat DLC Coated knives or knife parts
 
jjg6319 said:
If you are going to get a 0.050" driver go to a hobby shop and buy one that is machined. It might cost you $5-7, but it will fit better and be less likely to strip out the screw. If you read Hinderer's policy they will not remove a stripped screw for you (see below). Just saying.

Services we do not offer:​

  • We will not change the original finish, so for example we won’t tumble a knife that was originally blasted
  • We do not do “custom” detent work, meaning we do not make detents lighter or stiffer, all folders are made to a certain spec, however it may not be absolutely perfect for “you”. An example would be for those of you that have trouble flipping your knife without using wrist, we do not stiffen detents. Or in the case of someone who finds the detent too stiff, we do not lighten them either.
  • We do not change or alter the lock bar engagement.
  • We do not do regrinds of any sort
  • We do not mark blade steel types after the knife has left the shop
  • We do not have a stripped screw removal service. Big boy rules apply, you strip it, you remove it.
  • We do not re-finish, or re-coat DLC Coated knives or knife parts
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Great advice! And if that is their policy maybe it would be better not to use microscopic hardware, ha just a thought :cool: That said, the few times I've worked with them on warranty work I've found them to be really helpful and excellent, so I'm guessing they might make an exception from time to time for reasonable cases, just a guess.
 
As far as .050" allen wrench, I'd get Wiha brand. I use these. almost exclusively when working on medical/optical equipment. Wera also makes a good product. And stay away from ball-end wrenches at this size. They're handy for tight angles, etc. but are prone to strip after a few uses.
 
I don't know how it's legal to have a knife named the jurassic and not have any with a dinosaur motif.
 
The set screw keeps coming loose on mine, so I just removed the spacer. Seems pointless to me
 
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I just scored a Jurassic the other day! Flipper action is fantastic, but is it just me or can anyone open the blade using its thumb studs? To me, it seems the geometry/placement doesn't fit my hand for opening. Maybe I need to adjust detent, but then it seems it would open too easy open with flipper. I can see times when I don't want the blade flying out into locked position using flipper. Like when I'm in a hospital working on some of my equipment, there are times need to be a bit discrete, but still able to open one-handed.
Ergonomics of handle is great, love everything else about it, just curious about thumb studs.
 
J Lensmire said:
I just scored a Jurassic the other day! Flipper action is fantastic, but is it just me or can anyone open the blade using its thumb studs? To me, it seems the geometry/placement doesn't fit my hand for opening. Maybe I need to adjust detent, but then it seems it would open too easy open with flipper. I can see times when I don't want the blade flying out into locked position using flipper. Like when I'm in a hospital working on some of my equipment, there are times need to be a bit discrete, but still able to open one-handed.
Ergonomics of handle is great, love everything else about it, just curious about thumb studs.
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It’s doable but takes some precise application of force to break the detent. Problem is the studs are also the blade stop so the position is never quite ideal for flicking open. Try pre loading with your thumb pushing kinda up along the scale before giving it the flick, helps with breaking that detent. Slow rolling open isn’t really an option though in my experience except with my fullered xm-18.
 
I thought that since thumb studs were blade stop it was adding to the difficulty of using them for opening. I’ll just have to play around and figure out what’s best. Thanks for input.
 
FWIW I have a very hard time opening my Hinderers with the thumb studs. Mostly all Eklipse flippers here…. the flipper-less versions probably have lighter detent, but yeah Hinderer thumb studs are not thumb studs at all; they are blade stops
 
tony281sc2 said:
FWIW I have a very hard time opening my Hinderers with the thumb studs. Mostly all Eklipse flippers here…. the flipper-less versions probably have lighter detent, but yeah Hinderer thumb studs are not thumb studs at all; they are blade stops
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Yes the non-flippers definitely have a lighter detent, my non-flipper Eklipse was very easy to open with the thumb studs, though still not quite possible to slow roll open. The fullered non-flipper models are king IMO, those you can slow roll or even spydie flick very easily.
 
I believe Hinderer's MagnaCut is hardened to about 60-61HRC. I have a Oz Machine Company Roosevelt at 62HRC and it's holding up very nicely. Interested to see how the Hinderer performs. I'm not a fan of their 20CV at all, it rolls and chips way too easily and doesn't hold an edge for long. Their 3V is performing good so far.
 
Hyesouljah said:
I believe Hinderer's MagnaCut is hardened to about 60-61HRC. I have a Oz Machine Company Roosevelt at 62HRC and it's holding up very nicely. Interested to see how the Hinderer performs. I'm not a fan of their 20CV at all, it rolls and chips way too easily and doesn't hold an edge for long. Their 3V is performing good so far.
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What do they harden their 20CV to?
CRK hardens all their steel low and nobody seems to complain (S35VN at 58-59, 4V at 59-60 etc iirc)
Also, it seems like a lot of them (Hinderers) are sharpened at crazy high angles, like 25°+ per side, that could be a factor
 
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