Hinderer or framelock question

E

EMN

Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Messages
55
Hello all,

Very excited I received my first Hinderer today. A Jurassic it's also my first framelock and I'm also new to this knife hobby. So some questions before I contact USA Made or Hinderer.

Knife is beautiful and flips wonderful. So the questions the lock is very tight meaning I cant push it with my thumb I need to jam it into the frame not at all like I saw people doing on videos. Also after It moves itget it gets stuck at another spot. until I get it past that 2nd point it wont move and by then the flipper tab is jamming my thumb. When I look inside there looks to be maybe part of the screw or something hard to really tell and I kinda dont know what I'm looking at. So is this normal(dentent) does it need to break in are all framelock like this?
Eric
 
The new Gen 6 XM and Gen 2 Jurassic have hard detents and kind of suck for thumb opening imo. Does that help?

Not sure about the blade stopping at a second position and the screw you describe.

Doing my best to understand. Way to start with such an awesome knife if your just getting into the hobby.
 
Sorry I'll try to be a little more clear dont really know all the language yet. So I see what looks to be a pin that is ever so slightly through the lock into the inside of the frame. When looking on the outside there is a screw in the lock then a hole where this pin is closest to the pivot. That is where it is hanging up the second time. As for the lock I'm not sure if its sticking or very hard to move I dont have anything to compare it to. Unless it should feel like a liner lock it does not not even close.
 
EMN said:
Sorry I'll try to be a little more clear dont really know all the language yet. So I see what looks to be a pin that is ever so slightly through the lock into the inside of the frame. When looking on the outside there is a screw in the lock then a hole where this pin is closest to the pivot. That is where it is hanging up the second time. As for the lock I'm not sure if its sticking or very hard to move I dont have anything to compare it to. Unless it should feel like a liner lock it does not not even close.
Click to expand...

Photos would help.

Is it hard to open or close?

If it has an insert a screw holds it in place. Only the detent ball should stick out inside the handle.
 
It sounds like you're describing the detent ball, it is a small ball bearing pressed into the lock bar. When the knife is closed, that fits into a small hole in the blade and holds it closed. That's what allows for the flipping action when you press the flipper tab. The screw you see is holding the stainless steel lockbar insert onto the titanium lock bar. That is the piece that actually presses up against the blade tang and holds it open.

If I understand you correctly, you have trouble unlocking the knife initially. That is called lock stick. Then as the blade begins to close, it sounds like the blade tang is hitting the detent ball, causing the knife to stop closing a second time, is that correct?
 
Not sure what is happening, but since you are new to framelocks-be sure you are not pressing on the lock bar with your fingers as you are also trying to disengage it with your thumb. Sometimes it is just bad hand positioning.
 
Silent H said:
It sounds like you're describing the detent ball, it is a small ball bearing pressed into the lock bar. When the knife is closed, that fits into a small hole in the blade and holds it closed. That's what allows for the flipping action when you press the flipper tab. The screw you see is holding the stainless steel lockbar insert onto the titanium lock bar. That is the piece that actually presses up against the blade tang and holds it open.

If I understand you correctly, you have trouble unlocking the knife initially. That is called lock stick. Then as the blade begins to close, it sounds like the blade tang is hitting the detent ball, causing the knife to stop closing a second time, is that correct?
Click to expand...


This sounds correct I'll try and upload photos in a little bit and try to see if I'm hitting the lock. Eating dinner with wife out so cant test just yet will be back soon.
 
Cant figure out how to upload tried through photobucket but it would not let me.

I'm not touching frame when closing. I'm pretty sure that is the detente seams very hard. Fires open fine. I can kinda close when pushing hard back by the back finger grip area but that seams like an accident waiting to happen.
 
Think of a clock, at the 12:00 position, the blade is fully open with the lock bar engaged. If you release the lock bar to the 1:00 position, the detent ball may not be on the blade. Go to the 2:00 position and see if that’s any better.
There is a distance from when you release the lock bar and detent ball hitting the blade. Yes, there will be a resistance in closing the blade if you don’t close the blade far enough for the detent ball to ride on the blade when the lock bar is pushed over. I’d also guess, that’s what you’re feeling when you close the blade.
 
I just had the best customer service in my life. Contacted USA made by email and had a response in record time. I gave a call to Scott and all will be resolved shortly. Cant ask for anything better then that.
 
Silent H said:
It sounds like you're describing the detent ball, it is a small ball bearing pressed into the lock bar. When the knife is closed, that fits into a small hole in the blade and holds it closed. That's what allows for the flipping action when you press the flipper tab. The screw you see is holding the stainless steel lockbar insert onto the titanium lock bar. That is the piece that actually presses up against the blade tang and holds it open.

If I understand you correctly, you have trouble unlocking the knife initially. That is called lock stick. Then as the blade begins to close, it sounds like the blade tang is hitting the detent ball, causing the knife to stop closing a second time, is that correct?
Click to expand...

What Silent H describes above sounds exactly like what is happening. Seems like the Jurassics have a relatively tough detent and some stout lock bar tension. That part will probably work itself out and become smoother. Lock stick is variable.
 
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