Hints and ideas from the fiddleback forge family

dogwood dan

dogwood dan

Joined
Aug 19, 2011
Messages
925
So I have had some grinder and scandi jig questions while I was taking pictures Andy suggested that I start A helpfull hints and shop ideas thread.

For my first thread I am going to cover the scandi jig well I would if I were not sitting in my basement waiting to see which way the tornados are going, but stay tuned to this thread if I am still here tomorrow I will be posting pictures of our scandi jig.

Though I don't have pictures I do need something to do while I sit hear sipping a bit of Belvedere off of two rocks and listening for the sound of a freight train. So let's talk about technique we keep the knife parallel to the floor and draw the handle toward the knife maker as they approach the tip. Working in smooth strokes starting at the rascasso. I do this to help keep controle of the plunge, how do y'all do your scandi grinds?
 
Im watching this one Dan! Ive made a couple of Scandi jigs but they didn't hold up long.
 
I danced a Scandi Jig once....


With this woman:

sweedishfemaletroops131.jpg


I had a lot to drink.... she even more.

TF
 
Talfuchre said:
I danced a Scandi Jig once....


With this woman:

sweedishfemaletroops131.jpg


I had a lot to drink.... she even more.


Is this another tomato tomato thing . well it makes more sense when you say it :D. By the way I dig the tactical blond very scandi !
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In these pictures the micarta prototype is at the bottom and the new steel one we had a machine shop make for us is at the top. I will talk about the pros and cons of each later. For now I will focus on how they are made. Below are pictures of the two jigs, the ruler is in inches.

View attachment 262999
The long leg (the leg closest to the ruler) goes on the tool rest of the grinder* the short leg the side facing the left faces the abrasive belt. The side of the short leg the blade rests on, is set at 12.5 degrees
* It helps to keep the tool rest and the bottom of the long leg clean, dry and with a light coat of wax on it. This allows the jig to move smoothly across the tool rest during use.

View attachment 263000View attachment 263001
One will notice at the top of the short leg, there is a shelf the spine of the knife will rest on, to keep the blade square and so it can be placed at the same depth in the jig the every time,* at the base of the short leg on the side that the blade is clamped in, there is a two step ramp. This is to change the angle of the clamp when working on smaller blades. We discovered the need for this when I ground into the face of the jig while working on my side kick pattern.
* it is hard to see but we have a shim that rests on the shelf to raise or lower the shelf for smaller blades (see side kick incident above)

View attachment 263003
The abrasive belt should not touch the face of the jig because this will slowly destroy the jig. That being said the abrasive belt will touch the jig so we make the face so we can tell where and how badly it is happening. It may need to be flattened from time to time - oh and it let's us know who did it so they can pay the fine to the shop beer fund. We are working on a replaceable sacrifice plate for the next jig. This is a point of debate in the shop as that the micarta prototype lasts 18 months with two knife makers and an apprentice using, so some will argue that the extra part is unnecessary. I will keep you posted on that discussion.

View attachment 263002



I will get in use pictures next, but in the meantime, the way I use this jig is

1) heat treat steel
2) mark center line on edge of blade
3) use flat platen with tool rest set an 90 degrees
4) clamp blade in jig with flat spot of spine in contact with the shelf on the jig
5) start at recosso in a single smooth motion move from recosso to tip
6) frequently check the blade to ensure it is not over heating (quench in water to cool when necessary)
7) when the grind is close to the center line switch side of blade repeat 4-7 until
8) clean each side with final light smooth pass so that grind meet


I will be ordering another steel jig when i get back on my feet in about two weeks. If any one would like to piggy back on my order Pm me. They are about $160 if I get enough orders we may get the price down. I will be going for knee replacement tomorrow so it will be few days before I can respond to this thread or pms. Please be patient.
 
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Looks like a nice jig!

Let us know as soon as possible about your knee surgery!! Wishing you the best of luck!
 
I would be in for one Dan, I might need to call you to get the ins and outs of setup but it looks pretty straight forward. The problem I had with mine was that on my Grizzly grinder the toolrest tends to flex just a little and I would grind off some of the jig like you mentioned. Being metal, it seems like it would hold up much longer than the Micarta. I just thought of something that might help if it doesn't already have it. What about having them made with set screws or something to attach the face to the base. That way if you ever do grind too much away you can just add a face and you wouldn't have to buy an entire jig. Just a thought.
 
KHDaily said:
Looks like a nice jig!

Let us know as soon as possible about your knee surgery!! Wishing you the best of luck!
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Thank you ofr the well wishes,
I am preparing my "nothing after midnight " feast. A bone in thick cut pork chop, sautéed in butter and rendered bacon greas. then I am making a rue with the pan-drippings and deglazing the pan with a little Makers mark, and heavy cream for a gravy. that will be served with garlick mashed potatoes and green beens roasted with garlic and shallots. If only I could havemy glass of port
 
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dogwood dan said:
Thank you ofr the well wishes,
I am preparing my "nothing after midnight " feast. A bone in thick cut pork chop, sautéed in butter and rendered bacon greas. then I am making a rue with the pan-drippings and deglazing the pan with a little Makers mark, and heavy cream for a gravy. that will be served with garlick mashed potatoes and green beens roasted with garlic and shallots. If only I could havemy glass of port
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Damn Dan, that sounds more like a dying mans last meal than a "nothing after midnight" sort. Mental note, after picking Dan's brain for blade advice, convince him to pen a cookbook!
 
KFU said:
I would be in for one Dan, I might need to call you to get the ins and outs of setup but it looks pretty straight forward. The problem I had with mine was that on my Grizzly grinder the toolrest tends to flex just a little and I would grind off some of the jig like you mentioned. Being metal, it seems like it would hold up much longer than the Micarta. I just thought of something that might help if it doesn't already have it. What about having them made with set screws or something to attach the face to the base. That way if you ever do grind too much away you can just add a face and you wouldn't have to buy an entire jig. Just a thought.
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Thear is some debate about just that idea and weather it is practical, I think i am going give it a try on the next one tho. It will need to be attached from the blade rest side and the sacrifice plate taped but that shoul be easy. I am going to try and do a video while I am recovering because andy tought me some tricks to quite grinding the face off his jig. I don't know the grizzly very well has anything worked to stiffen the tool rest?
 
Thanks for this thread. It seems like the metal version baseplate would need some significant weight to it to keep it from being top heavy and wobbling as you make your passes, is that the case? I guess the wax would help that as well. I'd be interesting in buying one, especially if the price comes down.
 
The metal one is very easy to use. No wobble, its not really that tall. I am going to put a thin layer of something slippery below it though. Or, some sort of slippery coating. The old one was slipperier and I liked that.
 
I dont think my toolrest is wide enough either. How long a blade can you do on the kOmg?
 
KFU said:
I dont think my toolrest is wide enough either. How long a blade can you do on the kOmg?
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I have done a 6" blade on a kmg andy may have done longer. I would think one could put an over lay on a tool rest to make it wider if need be.

I have had a few request for scandi jigs, It well be a about a week before I am clear headed and out and about. I will conferm orders and price with every one before I move forward . thank all of for you interests
 
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dogwood dan said:
I have done a 6" blade on a kmg andy may have done longer. I would think one coudl an over lay on a tool rest to make it wider in need be.

I have had a few request for scandi jigs, It well be a about a week before I am clear headed and out and about. I will conferm orders and price with every one before I move forward . thank all of for you interests
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So since you are back online I am assuming things went well with the knee surgery???? I hope so! Hopefully we can see some more awesome Dan creations even sooner!!!
 
Yes the knee went well they wear able to do a parshal rather them a full. I am up and walking with crutches but still prety doped up (read a danger to my self and others in the shop). I should be out of the Hospetal to day. Thank all of you for your prays and thoughts
 
this is a "parts view" drawing of the micarta scandi jig that andy built in the shop, sorry for the quality i can't sit at my drawing table yet and my scanner is down. hopefully it will give yall some ideas though



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