Historical 'bush sword'

M

mickb

Joined
Jan 21, 2016
Messages
132
Czech Tusk by Lutel. Not sure if it has been shown here before. This type was reputed to be the farmers machete/tool in that region in the 15/16th century, no doubt also used for self defence or pressed into service as required. I think these would make an admirable bush sword or zombie killer( sorry had to say it) in the modern era.
Any thoughts on how easy these would be to make compared to a regular sword?

http://www.lutel-handicraft.com/?p=productsMore&iProduct=43&sName=Czech-tusk-11016
 
I'm no expert, but those look like a town blacksmith could have made them by the dozen. I've seen tons of almost the exact same style of workmanship (in a smaller size, and variation) sold at shows as patch knives/ flint strikers. Any decent smith can probably do these, and quickly.
Fairly smart design, imo. No need for a guard, with the "D" handle. Quick to make and arm the population. No bells and whistles, just heat it up, draw it out, pull the D handle, quench it down, grind it sharp, hand it to a local and collect your coin. No attempt to polish it or remove the forging marks/hammer marks. As far as the zombie thing, I play a few zombie survival PC games with a lot of crafting and this would be perfect, a few are downright unrealistic as I'm sure no layman thrust into the situation is gonna be forging katanas (one of my main complaints about one game).
 
Last edited:
kaotikross said:
As far as the zombie thing, I play a few zombie survival PC games .
Click to expand...
I miss Severance. I hope its not out of print.
bod1.jpg
 
Last edited:
kaotikross said:
I'm no expert, but those look like a town blacksmith could have made them by the dozen. I've seen tons of almost the exact same style of workmanship (in a smaller size, and variation) sold at shows as patch knives/ flint strikers. Any decent smith can probably do these, and quickly.
Fairly smart design, imo. No need for a guard, with the "D" handle. Quick to make and arm the population. No bells and whistles, just heat it up, draw it out, pull the D handle, quench it down, grind it sharp, hand it to a local and collect your coin. No attempt to polish it or remove the forging marks/hammer marks. As far as the zombie thing, I play a few zombie survival PC games with a lot of crafting and this would be perfect, a few are downright unrealistic as I'm sure no layman thrust into the situation is gonna be forging katanas (one of my main complaints about one game).
Click to expand...

I thought so too. So next question is who could I talk to about making one here? :D

The lutels above are czech made, not too sure on quality or heat treat. Production sword makers can be a bit hit and miss.
 
I think I will try to make one, but using a blank and a water jet since my shoulders won't let me bang away with a hammer all day any more. Just another item to put on my "Round 2 It" list.
 
zzyzzogeton what steel are you thinking ? I think historical versions went anywhere from 18-24" blades.
 
It's a dussack-I could forge one pretty easily (I love you, power hammer :) )-less finishing, but you're still grinding and HT'ing a sword. I would go with 5160 if I were making it.
 
Yep, a dussack. In the early modern era they were also made in boiled waxed leather for practice and in wood for law enforcement. Christoph Amberger discussed them in his Secret History of the Sword, pp 113-19. He generously made it available for free online here.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://fencingclassics.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/the-secret-history-of-the-sword.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjC99mp28fKAhXCxIMKHZXsAtsQFghCMAo&usg=AFQjCNHghittz_3zhUPYlxZXkEYAU_8ZQA&sig2=CuSbEHtZwKXuJOn6RCAJog

Zieg
 
The Zieg said:
Yep, a dussack. In the early modern era they were also made in boiled waxed leather for practice and in wood for law enforcement. Christoph Amberger discussed them in his Secret History of the Sword, pp 113-19. He generously made it available for free online here.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://fencingclassics.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/the-secret-history-of-the-sword.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjC99mp28fKAhXCxIMKHZXsAtsQFghCMAo&usg=AFQjCNHghittz_3zhUPYlxZXkEYAU_8ZQA&sig2=CuSbEHtZwKXuJOn6RCAJog

Zieg
Click to expand...
There's a modern company (can't remember who) making leather dussacken with a dual poly rod (springy!) framework inside that are an absolute hoot to spar with, and don't actually hurt that much unless somebody's being difficult. Think they were about $90 a pop, but really, really fun.
 
J W Bensinger said:
There's a modern company (can't remember who) making leather dussacken with a dual poly rod (springy!) framework inside that are an absolute hoot to spar with, and don't actually hurt that much unless somebody's being difficult. Think they were about $90 a pop, but really, really fun.
Click to expand...

A dussack is really a terrific sparring tool. Teaches the fencer a lot.

Zieg
 
mickb said:
zzyzzogeton what steel are you thinking ? I think historical versions went anywhere from 18-24" blades.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about 5160 or 1080, whatever is least expensive at the time I do it. I am not a professional by any stretch of the imagination. I'm more of a dabbler who likes to do things. Think of me as one of those rednecks who say, "Hold my beer and watch this" but with a grain of common sense thrown in, i.e., no firearms or moving machinery involved. :D
 
To the makers would you still envisage it being okay for machette use as well as (theoretical) sword fighting ?
 
I think if the geometry is kept to bolo/parang/golok-y dimensions it'd be ok. I've never handled a steel dussack, but most European sabers and saber-like blades are swords not choppers, and would fare badly if used so. Period dussacken may not fall into this category-I'll leave that determination to those who have handled them.
If you're going to have one built, specify that as a parameter and the only potential worry is hand shock-some integral/wrapped tang longblades will not be kind to your hand if you're not hitting right at the POP.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top