Hogue Mini Ritter minor issue

gull wing

gull wing

Joined
May 4, 2002
Messages
2,536
My Hogue Mini Ritter is a gem. I love it.
BUT :)
After it's un used for a while (days), the blade has a slight drag, that is , it won't snap open or closed as usual. After I use it for a while it frees up.
?????
 
I had the same problem with my axis locks and narrowed it down to using tuff glide as lube. Possibly I was using too much.
 
I had issues with tuft glide in the past, to the point that I completely quit using it.
‘The Ritter and Griptilian have such a big washers that if dirty, they can cause similar problems
I always try to disassemble a new knife, clean or slightly polish the washers on some piece of raw paper/strop and put it together with some light oil. I get unbelievable fidgety factor on the Griptilian, it’s just insane. Good luck !
 
What are your opinions on the lube that Benchmade sells?
 
Nano oil is overrated and overpriced. I don't feel it's better than tuf glide. Plus they use some cheap material to make the tube such that it cracked the other day when I squeezed to apply some drops to a knife.
 
Check the axis lock rod. If it has even a small imperfection/imperfections it will cause really bed drag. Mine (a larger purple Ritter) was fixed after I sanded and polished the the axis lock rod. Before fixing it had little problem opening but really bad stiff nasty un-smooth drag when closing and no amount of Ballistol oil changed it. In my case there were times it closed smoother but still not good and then back to really bad. I tried polishing the blade contact area but nothing changed until I turned my attention to the lock bar. I found out because I put the blade in another working Ritter grip and it worked smooth as butter. That ruled out all but the lock bar which did not look too shabby but after I removed/reduced what appeared to be insignificant scratches it worked smoothly when I put the blade back in.

Often the axis lock rod turns as it rides the contact area at the bottom of the blade during opening and closing. It could be that it rotates at some point to an unblemished area that permits smooth opening and closing before rotating back to where the imperfection produces drag again. If, If that is the problem a new unblemished lock bar would make quick work of fixing the issue. That would be the most ideal way to fix that problem.
 
Last edited:
greater said:
Check the axis lock rod. If it has even a small imperfection/imperfections it will cause really bed drag. Mine (a larger purple Ritter) was fixed after I sanded and polished the the axis lock rod. Before fixing it had little problem opening but really bad stiff nasty un-smooth drag when closing and no amount of Ballistol oil changed it. In my case there were times it closed smoother but still not good and then back to really bad. I tried polishing the blade contact area but nothing changed until I turned my attention to the lock bar. I found out because I put the blade in another working Ritter grip and it worked smooth as butter. That ruled out all but the lock bar which did not look too shabby but after I removed/reduced what appeared to be insignificant scratches it worked smoothly when I put the blade back in.

Often the axis lock rod turns as it rides the contact area at the bottom of the blade during opening and closing. It could be that it rotates at some point to an unblemished area that permits smooth opening and closing before rotating back to where the imperfection produces drag again. If, If that is the problem a new unblemished lock bar would make quick work of fixing the issue. That would be the most ideal way to fix that problem.
Click to expand...
This is quite possible. Thanks, that is a great idea. I will try that.
Click to expand...
 
I think I've found it!
There is a "gummy" substance on washers, blade, pivot pin, cross bolt, springs.
Obviously, the Nano-oil turns to gum, slowing things down. Never happened to me before with Nano.
I use it on many other knives (this is my first Hogue).

Guess I will soak parts in alcohol, then scrub with tooth brush.
Lube with?????
 
gull wing said:
I think I've found it!
There is a "gummy" substance on washers, blade, pivot pin, cross bolt, springs.
Obviously, the Nano-oil turns to gum, slowing things down. Never happened to me before with Nano.
I use it on many other knives (this is my first Hogue).

Guess I will soak parts in alcohol, then scrub with tooth brush.
Lube with?????
Click to expand...

I use sewing machine oil (light), bike chain oil (heavy), and coconut oil (food safe). I also have silicone grease which can be mixed with a lighter oil to achieve the exact action, but I am not that OCD.
 
gull wing said:
I think I've found it!
There is a "gummy" substance on washers, blade, pivot pin, cross bolt, springs.
Obviously, the Nano-oil turns to gum, slowing things down. Never happened to me before with Nano.
I use it on many other knives (this is my first Hogue).

Guess I will soak parts in alcohol, then scrub with tooth brush.
Lube with?????
Click to expand...
May have been something odd on it from the factory. I’ve never had this happen with nano oil and I have it on my Ritter Hogue.
 
sharp_edge said:
Nano oil is overrated and overpriced. I don't feel it's better than tuf glide. Plus they use some cheap material to make the tube such that it cracked the other day when I squeezed to apply some drops to a knife.
Click to expand...
Disagree. I’ve used everything from Frog Lube to Tuf Glide, and nano oil has worked way better than most, including TG. Only thing I haven’t tried is KPL.
 
gull wing said:
I think I've found it!
There is a "gummy" substance on washers, blade, pivot pin, cross bolt, springs.
Obviously, the Nano-oil turns to gum, slowing things down. Never happened to me before with Nano.
I use it on many other knives (this is my first Hogue).

Guess I will soak parts in alcohol, then scrub with tooth brush.
Lube with?????
Click to expand...
What I've been using for the last 15 years is Hoppe's #9 and CLP. For the passed few months I've used strictly the Hoppes and it has been working amazingly. All of my knives that I've taken apart, cleaned and oiled have come out smooth as glass. I put a few drops on the tip of a Q-tip and then brush the q-tip on each side of every moving surface. Just enough to keep it lubricated but not so much that it leaks out at all and gets on your paws.
 
I like Ballistol because it's non toxic as well as a time tested and proven oil. These days they no longer use whale sperm in the recipe. WD-40 is excellent for cleaning gunk but you must wipe all traces of it clean when done or it leaves it's own gunk behind.

My understanding is the oil requirements for small mechanisms like guns and knives are minimum and any decent quality oil should work fine. Nothing special is needed.
 
greater said:
I like Ballistol because it's non toxic as well as a time tested and proven oil. These days they no longer use whale sperm in the recipe. WD-40 is excellent for cleaning gunk but you must wipe all traces of it clean when done or it leaves it's own gunk behind.

My understanding is the oil requirements for small mechanisms like guns and knives are minimum and any decent quality oil should work fine. Nothing special is needed.
Click to expand...
I agree. Being a gun and knife guy my whole life I've used a lot of different lubes and have come to realization that nothing fancy is really needed and most anything makes it nice and smooth.🤙
 
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