Hollow grind on BK-2

don't see why it wouldn't

what purpose?
 
I would use it for everything a normal bk-2 would do. I just thought it might even open up a few options a thinner blade is better suited for
 
I'm not a fan of hollow grinds, for me, it makes the edge too delicate for rough work. That's one of the reasons why I like the sabre(flat) grind so much, it gives you the angle you need to create a great secondary bevel, but maintains an angle that you can work with.

Good question.

Moose
 
try it and report back. honestly, what's the worst case scenario? you end up resharpening it back to 20 degrees. i've been toying with the idea of a scandi-grind bk-2 myself :eek: yeah, i'm sick that way.
 
SilentJohn said:
Scandi sounds awesome too I don't have a sander so how could I do that
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Sandpaper, a PT 2x4, and a steady hand. I have seen a few scandi'd BK2s before and I have to say, I like them.

I personally like the secondary bevel, the shoulders strengthen the edge and you will have alot less dents, rolls and chips with a secondary bevel. But the scandi ground BK2s are a CUTTING MONSTER!!! Seriously, wicked cutters.

Moose
 
SpookyPistolero said:
Eww! Hollow grinds were invented by the devil.
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Agreed. They're alright on something that's a dedicated slicer/cutter like a small folder, but if it's for a knife that you intend to do any other tasks with, I would stay the heck away.

I honestly can't see a hollow grind on a BK-2 being a good idea. It's a 1/4" thick prybar that's made to do everything from chopping/batoning to finer carving tasks and IMO, the ideal grinds for such a knife are flat, saber or convex.

If you were to hollow grind it, you would probably see improvement for slicing/cutting but say goodbye to all it's other capabilities. Chopping will most likely lead to chipping/rolling if the wood is hard and sticking/binding if it's soft. Oh, and it will most definitely bind up like mad while batoning.

As for the idea of a scandi grind, I really don't see that as a wise idea either. I believe the saber grind on the BK-2 is about an 8 degree bevel with a 20 degree secondary. If you ground it to scandi, you'll have an 8-9 degree primary edge unless you're willing to grind away a LOT of metal. Tough as 1095 @ 57HRC is, such a grind will not hold up very well to anything past carving green wood. Just about all traditional scandis that don't make use of a secondary bevel are a minimum of 12.5 degrees. You could add a very tiny microbevel, but then it would just be a saber grind again wouldn't it?

IMO, if you're looking for increased slicing/cutting performance out of your BK-2 but still want to do tasks it was designed for, either knock the primary down to ~15 degrees on either side or (preferably) give it a relatively acute convex grind :thumbup:
 
There are some guys on the forums here that will do a regrind for you. Not sure of the names, but you could post in Tinkering, and get some answers.

Moose
 
you can make it scary sharp with a convex edge, and it's easier to maintain. Just use the ol' mousepad trick. I think the difference with a hollow (concave) grind will be how deep the edge will bite at a given angle, but for 90-degree slicing, a convex should get plenty sharp - it will just push the material apart as it's cut rather than slicing deeper before separating it on the shoulder of the bevel intersections.
 
I think that a slight hollow grind wouldn't hurt the knife a bit. Give it the same grind that's on the Kabar Potbelly and it would be good to go. I've beat on my Potbelly pretty hard and have had no issues at all with the edge. I've never had a 1/4" blade that slices as well as it does. It actually push cuts news paper better than a lot of smaller knives I've tried.
 
The grind on the Potbelly is just barely hollow though. If it were any shallower, it would be a flat grind from the shoulder to the edge. My edge is also a convex edge, sharpened on my Worksharp.
 
SilentJohn said:
I Just wish my bk2 had a little more bite
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How is it sharpened?
did you sharpen it? If so, to what final grit?
What are you cutting that you are unhappy with and what are you looking for the blade to be able to do?
 
I just use a old wet stone that was my grandfathers

I just shouldn't expect a think blade to be able to do what a thinner blade can
 
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