Hollow ground for chopping?

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Jul 2, 2001
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I've been wondering recently about large bowie style knives with deep hollow grinds. You don't hear about them a lot because there seems to be an overriding preference for flat and convex ground choppers.

But the large clip point bowie style knives with the deep hollow grinds bite very well into non-demanding wood and seem to make quick work of reasonable sized trees/branches.

My friend uses an Ontario Marine Bowie to chop down small trees with ease, and he loves it. I've seen videos of the Fitzen Tank taking apart trees quite easily.

Is the concern with hollow grinds more with really hard woods, or frozen wood, as I would think they could be a problem?

Anyone use a hollow grind knife at least some of the time for wilderness work?
 
Sog Seal team Elite
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never had a problem with a hollow grind on the SOGs. The Seal team Elite is an excellent chopper for its weight and size.
BTW, the lower half of the tree was "chopped" by a beaver
 
No experience with bowies, but I've used the Johnson Adventure Potbelly which is 1/4" thick hollow ground, and it didn't provide any reason to believe it couldn't stand up to hard work in the bush. If you like the blade, I wouldn't stress too much over the grind.
 
Kabar heavy bowie. Admittedly mostly playin in the back yard though. Split small diameter oak for fireplace and softer landscape type trees
 
There would be less resistance with a hollow ground blade. Personally I prefer them to anything else I've tried. Flat and convex are simply easier to make, thus more commonly found in small shops without expensive equipment.
 
There would be less resistance with a hollow ground blade. Personally I prefer them to anything else I've tried. Flat and convex are simply easier to make, thus more commonly found in small shops without expensive equipment.

Have to disagree with you. Flat and convex blades are ground on a disk or a belt running over a flat platen. Hollow ground blades are ground on a belt running over a round wheel. That`s the only difference. I can grind out either one in the same amount of time with the same amount of effort.

A file is cheaper than a grinder obviously, but except for differences in motor size or possibly using a brand name motor vs a no-name brand grinders don`t really count as "expensive equipment" much more than any other power tool.
 
as long as the hollow grind is not taken too thin, and some steel is left to back the edge with, it works. I was concerned with this years ago, as my BMF was hollow ground. I beat the hell out of that knife for years. I prefer a flat grind, however.

I have seen some interesting hollow ground/convex edge combinations.
 
Not to toot my own horn, but this one chopped really well when I tested it before final clean up.....I've found that the hollow grinds will chop just about as well as anything else if chopping is kept in mind when designing....this one was about .030 at the edge before I sharpened it...that seemed to leave plenty of meat behind the edge for strength and this one was pretty blade heavy so that was an added bonus to chopping as well

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Despite having a few hollow ground jobs I usually shy away from them because I tend to find full height grinds just more versatile than any saber grind; be it a hollow, flat saber, 0 Scandi, Scandi with extra bevels, mongrel combination, whatever. In fact, the only hollow I habitually use at the moment is a Moki full height hollow grind and that is so not suited for impact.

Apart from that I don't have a problem with them in principle. As Garrett said “if chopping is kept in mind when designing”, there's going to be a lot of variables there both in terms of what is to be chopped and the over all design of the piece. Do you want it to chop with easy penetration to point X or would that penetration just make it stick? Do you want it to throw chips like an ax or what? Can you afford to give away the weight or is the reduction in weight desirable and so on. Lots of factors. Jerry Hossom is a great example of a guy making hollow grinds with convex edges in modern stainless [S30V] in addition to others – to hear some tell it, with such a combination chopping with his creations should be doomed to failure, and it just doesn't seem the case.

You've also got to remember there's a great deal of grasping, ego, justification after the fact, and plain bilge spouted in relation to knives both by vendors and customers. On the whole I find knife people good people but that is true. There are loads of aspects used to disparage other offerings quite disproportionately. Why, because by doing that one promotes their own choice. We see it all the time with “tool steel”, “high carbon steel”, “rubber is cheap therefore...”, “cookie cutter stamped”, and more. Similarly, one of the primary things used to pillory a knife is that it is hollow ground. Example: Hollow grinds are easier to do at a mechanised factory than say a full height convex. On that, it can be used to try to leverage advantage with “very few if any factories could have made this” rather than “a factory could have knocked an immaculate one of those out in the same stuff, with a similar heat treatment, for a fraction of the cost, I must be a dickhead”. Same kind of deal as when 440C became commonplace in factory offerings and was no longer just the steel of custom makers, many people felt the need to distance themselves and lampoon it. By the time you've wound in the self-justification and need for approval [ever seen a thread reading; “I've just bought an X, it's in the post, while I wait for delivery can you tell me glorified tales of yours and post pictures of it”] people really do start to dig in deep because of the commitment they have made, and the myths gather momentum. Same is often very true for hollow grinds. In short, hollow grinds do have disadvantages, what doesn't, but be sure to pick fact from the mire of fiction and hype.

Me personally, the closest thing to a hollow ground chopping knife I have had and liked wasn't a dedicated chopper it was a field knife with a heavy emphasis on compact chopping. I guess some might call it a survival knife. It was almost identical in design to the one on the left in random-bloke's pic -

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"The president of BladeSports International, Jose Diaz, was so kind to send us a gift in the form of two competition blades!!...

...First off the angle of the handle is something that stands out immediately. The severe angle will be more efficient in chopping instead of a handle that is in line with the blade. The second thing that stands out is the concave grind which is more concave than you see on other blades. With a 10mm spine it is a hefty blade. The grip is constructed out of a full tang with rubber slabs on both sides."

Here's something you might find interesting




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The second thing that stands out is the concave grind which is more concave than you see on other blades. With a 10mm spine it is a hefty blade. The grip is constructed out of a full tang with rubber slabs on both sides."

Here's something you might find interesting
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He got concave and convex mixed up.
the blade is not hollow ground, but concave (I hope I'm using the right term here, what I mean is that it is not hollow, not flat but "rounded")
 
Ah yes, well spotted, he got his stalagmites muddled. It's easier to see on the pointy version of the Cane Toad.

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I'm not going to edit my post 'cos the thread will be less fluid if I do and it wasn't a central point. Knowledge added, ta :)
 
I've never used a hollow grind for chopping, mainly because I prefer other grinds. I am likely to pick a few up soon, so I am glad to hear they aren't as bad as I thought they might be.
 
I've done quite a bit of chopping with SOG knives with hollow grinds, never had any issues with any of them.
 
Tora make historically correct kukris, they make a couple of kukri which have a hollow grind on one side of the blade.

I believe the KA-BAR Machete Cutlass is hollow ground, it bites very deep and easily.
 
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