Home built buffer's, suggestions, pics?

Will52100

Will52100

Joined
Dec 4, 2001
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I'm getting ready to build a new buffer, just a double ended shaft and pillow block bearings. The old one is about had it, but it's been going for over 10 years, but I need something better than a hunk of metal from a house trailer axel and it just sitting on my work bench. Not to mention the bushings in the pillow blocks have about a 1/4" or more of slop in them.

Any body got any good pics or designs? I'm wanting to build a pedistal type unit, probably use an old brake drum or tire rim for the base and I've got plenty of pipe.

Got to head out in a few days, need something to dream up while I'm gone.

Thanks
 
Here's an image of mine that I built.

BigBuffr.BMP


OK, don't think the image code worked. SO here's a link if you'd like to have a look.
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-tour/BigBuffr.BMP?attredirects=0

It's a one horse 1725 rpm motor. The rest is built out of whatever, some 1/4 plate and the base is a torched out section of Ford truck frame. The mandrel I got is from Jantz I think, it used to be $35 or so but I believe the price has gone up since. It works well for fittings and stuff, I don't often buff long blades- if I did it would be a problem.

If I was going to build another, I'd get a 3/4" dia. keyed shaft 2' long from McMaster maybe, and the pillow blocks and pulley to set it up with. I'd make the wheels spin no faster than 1725 rpm or so. I'd use 3/4" keyed shaft because I would buy a pair of those spiral cone arbors for Baldor buffers and install those- they are made for a 3/4" shaft. K&G has them, I don't know who else. http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TSP Ever since I tried a buffer with that feature, I want it because you can have a whole pile of different buffing wheels next to your buffer for different operations, and you can quickly and easily spin them off and on with you hand to change them out.

These are not the smaller spiral cones that more places sell, I believe those are mostly for smaller wheels with hardened centers. These ones will work on almost any size/type of wheel.
 
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Hey Tippet, thanks man, that's considerate of you. EFleming, nice to see you around here. I've been going over your press build, gonna make my own soon.

Sorry Will, it's your thread.
 
No worries, thanks for the pic, it looks a lot like what I've got rite now, but mines a bit cruder.

Thanks
 
I like the tapered spindles too, but haven't used them with anything larger than six to eight inch wheels. Have you seen Grizzly's $117, 3/4" double-arbor, 3-step pulley H3559 buffing assembly? Just add a motor and pedestal, oh and tapered spindles and you're good to go. Many folks add some sort of dust collection system to buffers. That would take a bit more effort.
h3559.jpg

Here's a pretty good thread about it and buffers on a guitar forum, http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/231654-buffing-machine.html.

Here are some spindles at http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/tbs.html, although only 1/2" and 5/8". There must be 3/4" one out there some where.

tbs.jpg
 
Here is a pic of mine. I was given the .5 horse DC motor, the controller was about 150 or so. I use it to buff but just as often I use a Beaumont disc to make it a disc sander. 1750 is the max RPM and it is plenty. I would not want anything faster due to the increased danger of having a blade pulled from your hands. I will be putting it in a pedistal stand in the near future right next to the bench.

http://www.jmjonesknives.com/Shop_Image_PopUp.asp?Rec_Num=344
 
you guys have only two polishing wheels? I thought it would take more to put a mirror on metal?

I need to meet a local maker. Anybody in the Inland Empire of SoCal?
 
shotgunner said:
you guys have only two polishing wheels? I thought it would take more to put a mirror on metal?
Click to expand...

If you read the thread, post # 2, you will see the discussion of the quick change cones is for changing between various wheels quickly.

Salem Straub said:
I'd use 3/4" keyed shaft because I would buy a pair of those spiral cone arbors for Baldor buffers and install those- they are made for a 3/4" shaft.

Ever since I tried a buffer with that feature, I want it
because you can have a whole pile of different buffing wheels next to your buffer for different operations, and you can quickly and easily spin them off and on with you hand to change them out.
Click to expand...
 
Here is a picture of my buffer setup. The motor slides back and forth for the belt tension.

The picture was taken right after building it, I wish it was still this clean.

Charlie
 

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Looks good Charlie. What diameter is the shaft? Where did you get your tapered spindle attachments ?
 
Phil Dwyer said:
Looks good Charlie. What diameter is the shaft? Where did you get your tapered spindle attachments ?
Click to expand...

The shaft is 5/8s the spindle attachments came from Jantz knife supply.

Now days I have electrical tape wrapped around, covering the set screws on the spindle attachments. It makes the buffer a lot more knuckle friendly.

Charlie
 
I have used the tapered spindles on Baldor buffers, and they work very well. The Baldor shafts and spindles are tapered for precise fit.
But, I have never gotten the aftermarket tapered spindles to run true.
I use at least 6 buffers in my shop.
 
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I had a section of I beam around the shop; cut it on a 45 degree angle and welded that to the front to hold the pillow block bearings. The motor on top makes for easy belt change.

Good luck with your build, Fred
 
Cool pics, I like the one on the I beam, hadn't thought of putting the motor above it, and I like the grizzly arobor, but I've already got a new arbor on the way. Gives me some ideas, thanks.

For what it's worth, I normaly only use two buffing wheels, a hard stitched 1" wide wheel loaded with green chrome, and a soft loose wheel loaded with pink no-scratch. Depending on what I'm buffing I might put a loose wheel on with white compound. Most times I do a hand rubed finish and only use the buffer for brass, bronze, and nicle silver and stainless hardware. On damascuse I will do a very light buff, very rarily will I do a full mirror polish. Even then I'll take it to a rough 1000 grit finish.
 
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