• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

Home made micarta

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
1,497
So I got everything needed to make some micarta handles and attach them to my BK10. They will be epoxied and pinned, in the past month or so here a few people have showed some of there Beckers that had custom micarta on them so I am looking for any tips and tricks y'all learned from doing it.
 
Wear a respirator while cutting, sanding, and grinding.

The resin doesn't bond well to plastic wrap, you can use saran wrap between your clamping surfaces and it peels off easily.

Work quickly but with a purpose. You have pleanty of time so don't rush and make minor mistakes.

I use those little dixie cups, premeasure 2 oz of resin per each one. Then add drops of hardner to each cup as needed. This way, I can pour back unused resin and it's less wastefull.

Acetone will loosen up epoxy, keep some on hand for cleanup of yourself and anything it gets on.

Rather than spreading on the linen I pour a thick strip of resin down the middle, then, while wearing gloves, I wring it like I would a wet piece of cloth. Add resin to any dry spots, make sure it's saturated but not dripping with resin, then add to the growing stack of fabric. YMMV on this tip.
 
wow, nice tip with the dixie cups, spareparts! I did my first attempt 2 weeks ago, and while it looks ready to be cut and sanded, spreading the epoxy was a pita. the first mix congealed after I had done like 6 strips, had to make another batch to finish 21 strips of dark blue bdu cloth.
 
Thanks for the tips spareparts, makes sense to do the dixie cup method, i haven't seen that done in any how to video's on the tube.
 
my only tip is make a much larger piece then what u need. Its almost free its so cheap, so I made a ~6''x~12'' chunk just to make one set of BK9 grips. That way if it bubbles or has a flaw u can work around it. And if u want matching firesteel handle or whatnot u have some to spare.
 
the first mix congealed after I had done like 6 strips,

What epoxy are you using??? I use the West System slow stuff, and it takes overnight to set hard.
While regular quick-set epoxy is good for holding parts together, it is a detriment in trying to make micarta.
 
What epoxy are you using??? I use the West System slow stuff, and it takes overnight to set hard.
While regular quick-set epoxy is good for holding parts together, it is a detriment in trying to make micarta.
Ding ding ding. this
 
What epoxy are you using??? I use the West System slow stuff, and it takes overnight to set hard.
While regular quick-set epoxy is good for holding parts together, it is a detriment in trying to make micarta.

I planned on using 3m fiberglass resin for the micarta and then for attaching the handles to the knife I was going to use a two part Gorilla Glue 4200101 Epoxy.
 
yeah, make a larger block than you think you need, and avoid 5-minute epoxy (those two tips apply to almost anything!).

-Daizee
 
yeah, make a larger block than you think you need, and avoid 5-minute epoxy (those two tips apply to almost anything!).

-Daizee

What wrong with the five minute epoxy? do they not hold or is it just the amount of time you have to work?
 
I have been making "mycarta" for a year or so and here is my basic method;

If only making enough for 1 handle, I use 11"x2" strips. If using cotton t-shirt like material, 16-18 layers gives 1/4" thickness in the scales. I use 18-20 layers so I can sand off the top 2 layers to get rid of the shiny effect the hardened resin leaves.

I use 2 pieces of 2" Channel about 14" long for the sides and a 1 3/4" piece of bar stock for the "lid". I don't use saran wrap or anything similar to keep it from sticking to my take apart "u" shaped box (yes it works and is good advice) I just spray it all down with wd4. Resin wont stick to oiled parts so spray your clamps and the table underneath as well.

For 18 strips of fabric like t-shirt, I use 14 oz. of resin. I use a cleaned out 1 gallon milk jug that I cut the top off of and put in all the resin and 1/2 the recommended amount of hardener so it does not set up before I am done. I put 1/2 of the material in the jug and mix it with my hands to make sure it is fully saturated and then pull it all out in a big ball and squeeze the shizle out of it over the jug and set it off to the side....on top of a plastic grocery bag or that piece of saran wrap or what ever. Then I put the other 1/2 of the material in and do the same thing. This works great if you are using similar colors, because dark green and black look the same when wet. Now I start stacking in my desired pattern with the bottom being on the bottom. Four c-clamps will work great starting from the middle and on opposite sides of the "box" to help keep it even. The box sits on 2 small pieces of 2x4 so I can clamp with out clamping to the table. I can then lay the clamped piece at an angle so all the extra runs off. Do this outside!! Well ventilated area is good enough....outside is much better!!

After it is dry, I cut it in 1/2 and place upside down on a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and move in a circular motion to get rid of the shiny effect/dimple marks and get a real even top surface. Epoxy/pin to tang and grind to shape. Finish to 400 grit and it looks real nice. I soak the entire knife with turtle wax for rust prevention and it also brings the color out in the mycarta. Black will be black, not dark grey. Also, you get the "grippyness" of the mycarta that goes away if the super glue/hand sand method is used while still offering stain resistance. Cleans up great with dish soap and a scrubby!

Regular latex gloves will break, get the kind you use to clean the toilet. Actually, I don't use gloves at all, I keep a bottle of dish soap right there and when I'm done I squirt a bunch on my hands and use a throw away towel....stuff just wipes right off.

A couple pics....
397007_137358863049020_100003247207338_153169_3845473_n.jpg

426583_157848164333423_100003247207338_204006_1421675963_n.jpg

417587_170267286424844_100003247207338_238160_1360382499_n.jpg
 
I've made two slabs of denim mycarta, and what I did was put my resin saturated denim in between pieces of scrap wood that was lined with parchment paper and put a weight on top of that. Then I waited 24 hours for it to dry (3m fiberglass resin) and pulled it out. The micarta didn't stick to the paper at all, and it came out perfect.
 
Is it better to sandwich the micarta between wax paper or seran wrap when drying it?

I use saran wrap. The 3m resin does an exothermic thing that might melt some of the wax to the micarta. Just clamping it tightly might put a waxy coating on it. I don't want to have to worry about it inhibiting the bonding of the micarta to the handle when it comes time. I guess you could sand it off but oils and waxes have a tendency to migrate. The saran wrap peels right off, most easily if you do it when the micarta is solid to the touch but not all the way cured.
 
Stupid question, but when you epoxy the scales to the blade, does the pinning just become decoration?
 
Is it better to sandwich the micarta between wax paper or seran wrap when drying it?
I don't use either.....never have a problem. I have tried both tho and both work great....just not needed wd40 handles it just fine. I also saw someone said oils migrate and such and could impede the epoxy bond....a good knife maker cleans everything thoroughly as part of the prepwork in using epoxy or any other chemical. He will also scuff the epoxied surfaces with 60 grit sand paper to help in the bonding process. I am a firm believer in dish soap and acetone!

Another pic
423990_157851607666412_100003247207338_204019_1640127727_n.jpg
 
Stupid question, but when you epoxy the scales to the blade, does the pinning just become decoration?

Not a stupid question....and no, not in my opinion. I believe metal is stronger and lasts longer than any epoxy. I have taken some scales off of knives before to recondition a hamon or something and they were a bear to get off because of the epoxy, but I like the idea of a knife lasting 200 years, not 20!!

Also, spareparts mentioned when the resin isn't fully cured....good point, my friend!! Listen to the man's wisdom!
 
Stupid question, but when you epoxy the scales to the blade, does the pinning just become decoration?

No. They give lateral support. If you just epoxy, take a whacking device, and give a good hit they will pop right off. Various makers have ways to overcome this by drilling many holes through the handle, using hidden pins, mill a depression down the middle of the handle as well as the scales. I generally epoxy on the scales and let the epoxy fully cure, drill out the pin holes (again) as they will have some epoxy build up in them, then pin (coating the roughed up pis with epoxy) and do a light peening to the pin before the pin epoxy cures.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top