Honing Angle

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Jun 26, 2005
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I recently purchased a wedgek honing rod with angle guides. If I sharpen the knife on my wicked edge at 15 degrees should I also use the honing rod at 15 degrees to touch up? The website says something about using the 18 degree angle based on a micro bevel. I am not sure if it matters but I am sharpening a kitchen knife.

Thank You,

Liquid
 
Since that rod is apparently ceramic, you can (if you want to) hone at the same angle (15°) or slightly higher for a microbevel. The ceramic will be aggressive enough to cut the steel, to form the microbevel if you want it.

Other rods or kitchen 'steels' made primarily for aligning an edge, like a smooth (polished) steel, will best be used essentially at the same angle as the existing edge. Going wider in angle on one of those rods will likely roll the edge instead of aligning it straight. This is why I made the distinction above for the ceramic rod, assuming that's what you've got.
 
Thank you for specifying difference between using the ceramic rod and the steel ones. I just bought a new set of wusthof ikon knives that came with their own rod. At this point I don't plan to use the ceramic on the wusthofs. I'll stick with the same angle for both out of simplicity.
 
Honing rods, regardless of the material or finish remove steel to form a microbevel. It is a myth that ceramic rods are different from polished steel rods.
So yes, a few degrees above the bevel angle is ideal.
 
Ceramic rods are better at forming the microbevel without rolling the edge. Some other conventional 'steels' are kind of marginal for that, without also rolling the edge. This is why I suggest using them at the existing edge angle. Better-quality grooved 'steels' do a decent job removing metal from the edge, and can work well for applying a micro. But that also requires the right use of pressure for them; if not applied with a light touch, the edge is more likely to get rolled somewhat, even if a microbevel is formed.

Put another way, honing rods of different types each have their strengths, landing somewhere in a performance spectrum between clean-cutting abrasion at one end of the spectrum, to simple, predictable & minimally abrasive realignment of a ductile edge at the other end. For a ceramic, its strength leans more to the clean-cutting abrasion end of the spectrum. A polished steel might remove some metal on a very small scale; but it really excels at simple realignment of a rolled edge with a minimum of metal removal, maybe doing a little bit of burnishing and work-hardening of the edge in the process. Grooved steels of varying quality would lie somewhere in between, with better ones doing relatively well at both abrasion and alignment, and lower quality versions not doing very well at either task.

Having used my polished steel for a while to maintain my kitchen knives, it works much better when used at the existing edge angle, as I formed it on the stone. Lifting much beyond the existing angle tends to degrade sharpness more than it refines it, with some degree of burring or rolling as the result.
 
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Whether it's ceramic or polished steel I believe it would be best to hone at the existing angle. Honing a micro bevel wouldn't stay 'micro' for long.
 
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