Horn Crack Repair Redux

Svashtar · Jan 26, 2004

The old thread got a bit cluttered, so I created a new one as I knew several folks were interested in this subject. I double checked with Eagle Grips (in Carol Stream, Illinios) this morning, and they confirmed that for all natural ivory, horn and stag that they recommend plain mineral oil (baby oil) to keep it shiny and from cracking.

As I said, I have had no experience with the buffalo horn, but this seems to have worked well on ivory for the last dozen years, and these people make their living working with these materials so should know.

Regards,

Svashtar

munk · Jan 26, 2004

Well, thanks. I've got a baby here who uses mineral oil. I'll just slap some on baby bums and some on baby khuks.

munk

WarrenR · Jan 26, 2004

Good info CARman...
Thanks for checking w/ Eagle and for sharing.

arty · Jan 26, 2004

I hate to throw a monkey wrench in this discussion, but I am not sure that Eagle is an expert on horn, or anything else. I purchased some Eagle walnut grips for a Beretta 70S that never fit properly. The Beretta was also junk.

I have read the recommendation for the use of mineral oil on another khukuri forum, but for now - I will stick with lanolin. Let us know how the mineral oil works.

CARman · Jan 26, 2004

WarrenR, as much as I'd like to take credit for being helpful, I cannot claim any help in this one.

I cannot offer any help on khukris being so new to them, but firearms that's another story.

Yvsa · Jan 26, 2004

Originally posted by Svashtar
.... and they confirmed that for all natural ivory, horn and stag that they recommend plain mineral oil (baby oil) to keep it shiny and from cracking.

As I said, I have had no experience with the buffalo horn, but this seems to have worked well on ivory for the last dozen years, and these people make their living working with these materials so should know.

Regards,

Svashtar

Thanks Svashtar for checking for us. That's one of the nice things about the caring people in this forum.

I personally think there's several products that will work well for the care of horn, ivory, bone and stag.
I will continue to use the Ballistol-Lube on my khuks and Glycerin on my ivory of which I only have one piece and that's on a very old Keris with real tortise shell inlay in the scabbard. An excellent buy for $50.00 because the guy didn't know what he had.

hollowdweller · Jan 26, 2004

Originally posted by arty
I hate to throw a monkey wrench in this discussion, but I am not sure that Eagle is an expert on horn, or anything else. I purchased some Eagle walnut grips for a Beretta 70S that never fit properly. The Beretta was also junk.

I have read the recommendation for the use of mineral oil on another khukuri forum, but for now - I will stick with lanolin. Let us know how the mineral oil works.

It didn't work for me.The one I used the mineral oil on cracked the worst of all of them. Handle is still on there but it cracked the worst.

munk · Jan 26, 2004

I don't know what to make of all this.

Soaking in water seemed wrong to me; too much and the horn is bound to weaken and crack. Soaking in mineral oil seems risky; it's mineral oil that is used to clean knife sharpening stones.

Olive oil seems possible. I'm going to ask for lanolin next time I'm at the pharmacy though.

munk

WarrenR · Jan 26, 2004

I guess one of the biggest questions is what causes cracks.
If it's due to drying of the horn, oil or a conditioner should
solve this. On the other hand if it's due to temperature variations,
not much shy of an insulating blanket would suffice.

Anyone ever tried a super penetrant, say like 'oil of mint'?

arty · Jan 27, 2004

I do not know for sure, but I would be willing to bet that it is drying that causes cracks. When wood dries out without a good sealer, it will warp and you can get curves in boards, either along the length or width. If horn acts like wood, the movement may not be uniform across the surface of the horn. It could then crack as it changes shape.
Hrisoulas recommends sealing the ends of horn slabs - with superglue. He also describes the method of flattening horn to make handle slabs, as on a Chiruwa handle.
I would be willing to bet that the cracking comes from uneven drying, or from the different structure of the horn as it dries - causes diffential shrinkage.

spiraltwista · Jan 27, 2004

If wood is reaction wood {That cut from leaning trees, branches & hillside trees} It will warp crack etc whatever you do with it.

The same is true of missshaped horn especialy if it has been heated , steamed, boiled etc, to flatten or shape it.

When any of these low quality pieces of wood or horn end up in the production chain you will have problems that will be accentuated by extremes of heat,cold & moisture.

non solidyfying Mineral {baby} oil, & human sweat {although less inert} do the best job possible on these hydroscopic substances. Pure Olive or walnut oil is also very good but causes darkening.Lesser vegtable or contaminated olive oil gums up & can even incourage fungal growth!

The best way to care for these products is by putting the oil on your hands and then handling the said item. When it still has traces visible on the handle after 8 hours I stop treating them. For long term maintenance twice a year wipe over seems to maintain & preservre the said ivory,horn or wood.

All new kukris of mine {Ivory horn or wood} recive this treatment & I have yet to have any cracks or warping occur or get worse after this type of care.

Cheers,
Spiral

Svashtar · Jan 27, 2004

Originally posted by arty
I hate to throw a monkey wrench in this discussion, but I am not sure that Eagle is an expert on horn, or anything else. I purchased some Eagle walnut grips for a Beretta 70S that never fit properly. The Beretta was also junk.

I have read the recommendation for the use of mineral oil on another khukuri forum, but for now - I will stick with lanolin. Let us know how the mineral oil works.

I have always just done what Eagle asked and sent them the frame of the handgun along with the order, and everything has been fitted beautifully. All frames are not created equal. I have several grips of South American Pao Ferro with Rosewood end caps that I have for my Smiths, all bought individually from Hogue (without sending the revolver to them), and every one of them has had to be tweaked by me later in order to really fit well. With the more expensive Eagle grips I just sent them the frame as I didn't want to take any chances.

They've been selling ivory, buffalo horn and stag grips for many, many years, so I think they would have some good input. As I said, my 1911A1 ivory grips haven't cracked using the baby oil treatment, but of course they are just slabs and not rounded all the way around like a khuk handle, and don't have the same internal stresses as well caused by the tang.

I mentioned the hoof stuff and lanolin to the Eagle guy as well, and he said that he thought they would be fine; anything to hydrate the horn and simulate the natural oils the horn used to get from the animal. They just happen to promote mineral oil instead for their products as being the best maintenance solution.

I have a feeling that a certain amount of cracking on some handles may just be unavoidable depending upon the way it was cut and prepared and what individual strengths and weaknesses may be in that particular chunk of horn. In that case you could probably float it in an oil bath and it would still crack a bit in time...

Regards,

Svashtar