Horn handle repair questions

B

bennyjenkins

Joined
Dec 18, 2006
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I'd like to seal up an area ony horn handle where the grain is showing and looks like it has the potential to flake. And recommendations on what to use? I had planned on using epoxy but thought I'd check with the experts first.IMG_20160805_205346204.jpg
 
Super glue works well on slight imperfections, epoxy on the deeper ones. Both will polish out well if you know what you're doing. No one will notice.
 
I've used epoxy colored with charcoal dust with good results.
 
if it's delaminating, superglue will wick into the thin space between the layers where epoxy will not. coloured epoxy for more open cracks like SG said...
 
Horn is made up of hair. The hair grows in rings similar to the rings found in trees. When making powder horns, when one or more "hairs" split or separate, the traditional fix has been to sand, scrape, or reshape the offending area. Damage in larger areas , such as might be observed if you think about the term "bruising", requires much more drastic measures and may never be completely repaired and rendered invisible.

Dryness, heat (particularly from electrical equipment polishing), and moths are death on horn unless the horn receives a regimen of waxing to seal off the surface. Many valuable powder horns have been ruined by being placed in a drawer, trunk, card board box, or even hung on the wall without protection. Sneaky little moths get to them when you least expect it.

Fast forward to the 21st Century and you will find modern epoxies of various qualities. Cheap and inexpensive epoxy glue can "dry out" and separate and/or delaminate over a period of time, mimicking Mother Nature. So, be selective in your choice of epoxies. Regardless of what you employ to repair the defect, the rest of the horn is going to be thirsty and require some waxing every so often.

One last bit of information: The longer you wait to repair a horn defect, time marches on and sooner or later, you may never be able to make a handsome repair. Splitting and delamination continue to get worse.
 
I personally would not recommend superglue on that because it is not designed to be used as a filler. Id clean the surface oils off with alcohol or even acetone before you start but dont soak it long. Acetone will allow the epoxy to feather into the horn without detection. You just want to dry the surface of oils so the epoxy will stick to a clean surface. You can dye the epoxy (search fiberglass supply-pigments) if you like or pm me for specific links. They do make epoxy pigments that will give you a completely invisible fix if you do it right. I can absolutely guarantee you that if you do it correct then you will not be able to locate the repair once it is done correctly but do not use superglue for that specific repair or you will eventually be sorry.
Superglue even in a fine crack will break up and crack microscopically even if you cant see it but if it is not a structural repair then it may work fine for a cosmetic repair. Your knife looks like it needs some serious surface filling. Epoxy is flexible and shock resistant. CA or superglue is not.
 
Agree, super glue for minor superficial, cosmetic make up. For more serious repairs I use black dyed epoxy from the manufacturer. I've tried charcoal dust, ink, make-up powder... They all deliver good results but not as good as the product professionally done IMHO. Brownell's Acra Glass comes with black dye that works really well but, I haven't found a source for the dye itself in an appropriate qty.
 
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BB, Brownell's is a 15 minute drive for me. I have bought larger quantities of dyes (particularly black) and other similar or related products from them in the past. What is an appropriate quantity?
 
I've never used acraglass but I've dyed epoxy before with leather dye. I've had excellent results.
 
Bookie said:
BB, Brownell's is a 15 minute drive for me. I have bought larger quantities of dyes (particularly black) and other similar or related products from them in the past. What is an appropriate quantity?
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Sure glad I don't live 15 minutes from Brownell's. I'd probably just have to direct deposit my pay checks into their accounts. Great candy store and I've ordered from them for years.
Reminds me I got to order some acraglas, I'm plumb out. I use it for most everything. I like the gel, easier to measure and 1 to 1 ration. There is a place for the liquid though, probably fixing cracks and such the liquid flows a bit easier.

Maybe I can come down and get a warehouse job working for Bob and be your neighbor. There goes the property values huh?
 
Bookie said:
BB, Brownell's is a 15 minute drive for me. I have bought larger quantities of dyes (particularly black) and other similar or related products from them in the past. What is an appropriate quantity?
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I wasn't able to find the dye on their online search, it's not the most user friendly, at least for me. I would imagine a couple fluid ounces would be all I'd ever need. The searches I performed turned up 8 ounces or more and was quite pricey. I stumbled across premixed that comes in a variety of colors. I ordered black, obviously for the horn but, also brown for less than I could find the dye for. I've been able to blend the two for wood grip repairs to a close match for any needing such thus far as well.
That said, I'm with Bawanna, if I lived that close to Brownell's I'd probably find myself in a peck of trouble.
 
ndoghouse said:
I have a $15 can of this stuff and it will last many lifetimes for many people. Touch a toothpick to the surface and mix it in with your poxy and good to go. Technically its called a pigment and is not a dye.

http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Black_Pigment_43/pigments

They dont support this site but they dont compete with it either so ill delete it if mods say it has to go:rolleyes:
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Yeah, I believe I came across that. However, after the $9.95 S&H it was more than the $18.00 I paid for the both colors of the mix delivered. Believe it or not I can be a cheapskate. More money to spend with Auntie. ;)
 
Does anyone have a recommendation on what grit sand paper you would use on a repair like this? I have never sanded horn before.
 
Like wood or fiberglass etc, work your way up depending on the job. Usually there's no need to go coarser than like 280 or 320, then go to 400 and more. Usually after 400 though you can hit it with a polishing wheel and it'll shine up real pretty.
I make it a point not to get it too hot. I suspect extreme heat would be a bad thing for horn much like it is for ivory.
 
Thanks. I will give this a try tomorrow. Speaking of heat causing damage, will it cause damage to keep a khukuri in your car in the 90+ heat?
 
EricTheRedBeard said:
.... Speaking of heat causing damage, will it cause damage to keep a khukuri in your car in the 90+ heat?
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If it's 90 degrees outside it might become a lot hotter inside a car, especially if it's in direct sunlight with no shade. Could cause a wood or horn handle to dry out rapidly, shrink and develop hairline cracks. Could also affect the leather and wood of the scabbard. The blade itself might expand in the heat and become stuck in the scabbard, although that would be temporary. I've heard that some of the HI blades have developed handle cracks from being kept in Yangdu's storage shed in hot weather. (She sells those as blems at reduced prices; a good deal as they are usually pretty easy to fix.)

I don't like leaving anything in 90 degree or more heat, including myself.
 
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Agreed. Keeping the handles well oiled will help alleviate some of the issues. Direct sunlight is the real issue.
Depends on where you live also. Here in Washington is totally different than Reno where it's very dry.
I had Yangdu put a bucket of water in her shed and she's been oiling the handles when they arrive which seems to have helped a bit.
david nailed it.
 
The theory on working Ivory and I assume horn too is if you can't touch it without getting burned it's too hot. You work it a bit and have to let it cool down. This is much hotter than a handle would get under the seat or in the trunk of a hot car.
Over a long period of time the handle would of course dry out, so keeping it hydrated with your oil of choice helps that immensely.
 
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