Hot air soldering gun

[John L]

Anyone use one for soldering bolsters? Just looking for a cleaner way of soldering bolsters on my slipjoints. Is it too time consuming?

 

[Miles Undercut]

Can't imagine hot air would give enough heat for soldering.

 

[John L]

Miles: Well the air temps are 1,000 to 1,100 and are focused into a 3/8 diameter tip. I am using 400 degree silver content solder on stainless. I would think it could work.....but who knows. I am sure it takes longer but there would be very minimal cleanup afterwards. Thanks.

 

[jrhart50]

I have used one from harbor and it works just takes longer then propane torch
JRH

 

[Jim Rieck]

I use one all the time to solder 303 stainless guards to D2 and ATS-34. You have more control over the heat because it takes longer. Torches heat things quickly and it is very easy to overheat and burn the flux.

 

[Charles Vestal]

I use one for soldering guards.

As jrhart50 said it takes longer than a propane torch; but you are less likely to over heat the joint with the heat gun.

Just keep the heat on the joint until the solder flows. You will think it's never going to get hot enough but it will.

Take care

Charles

 

[Sticky]

Charles, do you apply solder right to the front seam of the gaurd? How do you clean up/finish the area?

 

[Miles Undercut]

Okay, I'll take your word for it! Live and learn! However, I think I'll stick with acetylene, or oxy-propane.

 

[Mitchell Knives]

It will work. I know I maker who uses this method.

 

[Charles Vestal]

Charles, do you apply solder right to the front seam of the gaurd? How do you clean up/finish the area?

I aim the heat to the bottom of the guard holding the heat gun at about 45 degrees, so you are heating the guard and tang.

Apply the solder to the front of the guard after it starts to flow use a sharpened stainless rod dipped in flux to help coax the solder around the joint.

For cleanup I use a nickel silver rod sharpened at a 45 degree angle as a graver to clean up the majority of the excess solder. Then I use a small chisel edge Cratex wheel held in a small pair of needle nose Vise-Grips. Drag the wheel along the solder joint to smooth everything out. Then use a small buffing wheel and a Dremel Tool to buff the joint.

I hope some of that made sense.

Here's a photo of the Cratex wheel step.

 

[Sticky]

awesome think I got ya. thanks!

 

[Salem Straub]

That's awesome, I never used a cratex wheel by hand like that. I'll have to try it.

 

[Charles Vestal]

That's awesome, I never used a cratex wheel by hand like that. I'll have to try it.

I always left gouges in the face of the guard when using the Cratex wheels in a Dremel, especially when trying to clean up the solder at the top and bottom of the blade.

This method takes longer but I like the results.


Charles