Hot blue ?

Hankins

Hankins

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Dec 7, 2008
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Hot Blue ?
Have a Pommel that has a Bolt threaded and silver soldered into it for securing to the handle. Read: Bolt screws into the tang inside the handle.

Can this be Hot Blued? or will the solder ruin the bluing solution?
 
Firearms have lots of sliver soldered parts.

I don't think it will ruin the solution, but it will show up in contrast as the solder wont blue.
 
If it's high temperature silver solder, the bluing solution won't hurt it.
If it's the 400 degree stuff, the solution will eat it.
 
It's not the heat. Bluing solutions are caustic, and will eat soft solder.
 
Might try covering/sealing the exposed bit of solder with RTV silicone if the area will not be visible in the finished knife. I have not tried this in blueing solution but have used it for similar things and it has worked like a charm, it is pretty tough stuff. Maybe test it on a piece of scrap first. Keep in mind that it is not easy to remove, so apply it accordingly.
 
You have a couple of blueing options that will not affect the solder. First is to "rust" blue it, which is the old method of doing soft soldered parts (like double barrels); second is to use a "cold" blue solution.

I prefer the rust blue, as it gives a deeper, and bluer, color. But the final finish on the part determines the quality of the finish, and it's time consuming. Also, if you don't have a rust cabinet, it's another fixture you have to come up with.

Using a solution for cold blueing can give good results, but the steel and the way that it's applied make a big difference. I prefer to use boiling water to clean and heat the part and then apply the solution while everything's warm. I find that gives me a uniform temperature thru the piece, and the water actually helps the reaction.
 
Sorry, but cold blue does not wear well at all-regardless of the method of application.
Rust bluing wears well, but takes a lot more time to apply. You don't need a cabinet to rust blue. There are other methods.
 
^ Never said you need a cabinet, just that without one you have to come up with a way around it.

As for wear, if I could get to my stuff, I'd present a knife blade done without hot salts that's been blue since before 1981. Don't ask how I did it, probably got the receipt from an old muzzleloader magazine, but it's worn pretty good for all that time.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Sorry, but cold blue does not wear well at all-regardless of the method of application.
Click to expand...


I would agree with that except for Oxpho-Blue. I've been using it to blue knives a lot longer than I've been making them. I have an old Universal LF&C chopper that I did back in the late 90's that's limbed more trees than I can count and the blueing is still 99%.

In my experience how well it wears is dependant on the application and the steel it's applied to, it does best on simple steel. I've got a W1 integral shown on my web site and it's show excellent resistance to wear so far.

It's best applied with 4-0 steel wool, which you also use to polish it to a high gloss finish.. tough stuff.

I wouldn't stake my reputation on it but IIRC Brownell's claims it has better wear resistance than hot blue.
 
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