Hot Bluing

[dlfleetw]

Alright,

I have been looking for someone to do some hot bluing on an art knife I am working on. So far only places that I know of that can/will do it are gunsmiths. I have reservations about using a gunsmith as 1) they use high temp bluing (600 F) and don't want to the temper to go out on the blade 2) would rather have a 'knifemaker' familiar with the particulars do the work.

So the question is, is there anyone that does this as a service or does anyone know a custom knife maker that will hot blue just the blade/bolsters for me?

 

[James_Terrio]

What kind of steel is the blade?

I really couldn't answer you, never having done hot-bluing. Maybe ask in the maker's forum? I know plenty of those guys hot-blue guards and such. Not sure about blades.

Some steels are tempered well above 600F, but they might not accept the bluing. I know that cold-blue solutions wipe right off stainless steels and don't even leave a mark. Bluing is basically oxidation, and all the chromium and other fun stuff prevents it from working.

Then again, if it's an art knife and not a user, cold-bluing might be just fine. I've cold-blued and patina'ed carbon steels; it's reasonably durable.

 

[kc custom]

The hot blueing you're talking about at 600 degrees isn't what most gunsmiths use. Heat blueing is closer to what you're talking about. Gunsmiths usually use blueing salts in the 280-290 degree range. (oxynate #7)
Ken

 

[dlfleetw]

The blade is 1095 and 15n20 Damascus steel.

Cold bluing lacks.. well blue. It tends more towards an oxide black. I have tried heating the cold blue on a few test pieces of steel that I've polished to get a more vibrant indigo/blue color, but with little luck.

http://www.knifeart.com/mosblacpeara.html

That Is what I am looking to achieve. If that helps any.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

You can do that with heat, but there is no cold solution that will do it. Heat bluing requires 400-500 degrees.
Gun bluing requires heat, too.

 

[Dog of War]

If I were you, I would consider cold rust bluing, which, if done right, produces an exceptional finish, and won't affect your heat treat. The only real drawback is that it's a pretty drawn out process.

Some basic info:

http://gunsandammomag.com/cs/Satellite/IMO_GA/Story_C/Cold+Rust+Bluing

 

[dlfleetw]

Maybe I should have been more clear.

Cold rust bluing... is not what I'm looking for. It does look nice, but as you have said it takes a good amount of time and effort to achieve.

Hot bluing is what I'm looking for, probably should have grabbed something hot blued as example instead of heat blued....

More or less I guess I should just call up the local GS and see what he has to offer.

 

[Dog of War]

Maybe I should have been more clear.

Cold rust bluing... is not what I'm looking for. It does look nice, but as you have said it takes a good amount of time and effort to achieve.

Hot bluing is what I'm looking for, probably should have grabbed something hot blued as example instead of heat blued....

More or less I guess I should just call up the local GS and see what he has to offer.

No problem ... was just throwing out the suggestion, thinking that with an art knife you might not be in any hurry. A good gunsmith could probably offer some guidance, let you know what's available.

Good luck ... and hope you let us know if you learn anything interesting.

 

[dlfleetw]

Time is most defiantly not an issue with this knife.

Up to now I have just scaled blanks and what not.

I plan a learning inlaying to a degree, getting my file work into a cleaner style, as well as the bluing process.

Cold Rust bluing I can control myself. I dread getting through the blade portion and then during bluing it goes all haywire, be it my fault or a smiths.

I guess I am going to have to do a few random tests on the Damascus to see the outcome.

 

[Dog of War]

I'm sure many here would really enjoy seeing your work, if you don't mind posting pics as things progress. Many of us are great admirers of those who undertake the knifemaker's craft.