How are the tube Pins Flared?

5

5artist5

Joined
Nov 8, 2011
Messages
9
How do you flare the tube pins such as in this picture?
photo11-2.jpg
 
Thanks Count. Duh. That knocks the heck out of how I've been doing it with a punch
 
A regular tube flare kit works the same way. Flaring one side is pretty easy, but you do need to put a solid backing on the first flare before doing the opposite side. It helps on brass or copper to anneal the ends before flaring. Just heat the end to red and quench in water. This avoids splits on a deep flare.
 
I use the flaring dies from USA Knifemaker and a 1/2 ton arbor press. The flared tube gives you another mechanical connection that is stronger than the often used straight tube. Use 1/4" thin walled tube and countersink your hole to .4" diameter for a slightly below flush flare (below).

IMG_1394.jpg
 
Not to take any of Tracys business but you can take a piece of 01/w1 drill rod and make your own..Just gring the point to shape and heat treat it..
 
Kentucky said:
Not to take any of Tracys business but you can take a piece of 01/w1 drill rod and make your own..Just gring the point to shape and heat treat it..
Click to expand...
What angle would u say? 82ish/90ish like a countersink?
 
I used a cheap set of large punches from Harbor Freight and simply ground points on each to match my countersink. I put one in the vice and place the handle over it then hammer down from the other side with the second punch. I flip it to make sure both sides are even. I read once that oiling the tubes helps and it has worked for me to prevent split tubes.
 
BMK said:
I use the flaring dies from USA Knifemaker and a 1/2 ton arbor press. The flared tube gives you another mechanical connection that is stronger than the often used straight tube. Use 1/4" thin walled tube and countersink your hole to .4" diameter for a slightly below flush flare (below).

IMG_1394.jpg
Click to expand...

really nice outcome... I'm swithching to this as well. i've been doing it the old fashioned way and compared to this, mine looks like crap.
 
Tube length = handle thickness. Make sure you square the tubing before you flare it. Also, unless you can "grind" a near perfect cone, don't try the methods suggessted above.

Jeff

ps 82 degree six flute contersink is the ticket for this simple operation


5artist5 said:
do you leave the tube long and then file or sand it to meet the scales?
Click to expand...
 
BMK said:
Tube length = handle thickness. Make sure you square the tubing before you flare it. Also, unless you can "grind" a near perfect cone, don't try the methods suggessted above.

Jeff

ps 82 degree six flute contersink is the ticket for this simple operation
Click to expand...
I second that. If you make your own, It's best to be turned and polished on a lathe, it would be tough to hand grind it. If the angle is off it could cause splits.
 
I should have been a little more clear(other than to say "grind it")..The center needs to be marked and you need away to make sure the bevil is right if your gonna try to make one by hand..
 
Also be aware that some knives have a "faux flare" which is just a straight tube that has been chamfered to give the visual appearance of being a mechanical fastener. You are preparing to do it the stronger way.
 
rustyrazor said:
really nice outcome... I'm swithching to this as well. i've been doing it the old fashioned way and compared to this, mine looks like crap.
Click to expand...

That's fine, just don't tell anyone. I'm a neophyte...remember?
 
that being the case... last question on this one (till I try it I imagine) what size drill bit are you using to countersink you hole? I think you've just about nailed it as far as even depth and a nice flare. If I can get mine to look like this, I'll be happy.
 
21Wcx6tyToL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


3/4" 82 Degree High Speed Steel 6 Flute Chatterless Countersink
 
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