How are you sharpening S110v?

S

Stolenives

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Jul 12, 2017
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ive had the para2 for 6 months. I took it on a hog hunt and we put a couple down in west central Texas, and I was able to butcher 3 hogs with this spyderco. I washed it and went to work on some oak and it preformed very well with the factory edge. It wasn't a razor but it did pretty well! Then I edc'd it on the weekends for 6 weeks after and it lost its apex. I decided to sharpen it with diamond stones, I started in at at a course diamond to reprofile it at 35 degrees inclusive. Worked into medium, fine and then an Arkansas stone and then used 3 compounds to strop at .5 micron, .25 and then .1 and this thing was sharper than factory but it's not by much. I edc'd in for a week and I'm not getting the performance that I did with the factory edge. Out of the box it was at 42 degrees inclusive. Does anyone know what the ideal angle and kind of meathod I should look to try? Toothy, polished? More of an acute angle or should I bring the angle up? Any thoughts to help?
 
You should be able to attain excellent sharpness.

Sounds like you may have over stropped.

The ark stone may also produce an issue and I am not sure how well it would cut such a wear resistant steel
 
I dknt remeber for sure but i believe i asked Spyderco once long time ago and i think they said 17-19 degrees per side. But yes as mentioned above if u strop wrongly u can round the apex a bit and maybe thats why.

I had a PM2 in S110V some time ago and i did use my wicked edge and it held pretty good but my use was not that severe. Just zip ties, letters, fruit, opening boxes.
 
I would attempt to do the process just without the Arkansas stone and strop using the .5 then .25 micron. Test the sharpness and then go to the .1 if it's not enough.
 
Stolenives said:
ive had the para2 for 6 months. I took it on a hog hunt and we put a couple down in west central Texas, and I was able to butcher 3 hogs with this spyderco. I washed it and went to work on some oak and it preformed very well with the factory edge. It wasn't a razor but it did pretty well! Then I edc'd it on the weekends for 6 weeks after and it lost its apex. I decided to sharpen it with diamond stones, I started in at at a course diamond to reprofile it at 35 degrees inclusive. Worked into medium, fine and then an Arkansas stone and then used 3 compounds to strop at .5 micron, .25 and then .1 and this thing was sharper than factory but it's not by much. I edc'd in for a week and I'm not getting the performance that I did with the factory edge. Out of the box it was at 42 degrees inclusive. Does anyone know what the ideal angle and kind of meathod I should look to try? Toothy, polished? More of an acute angle or should I bring the angle up? Any thoughts to help?
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Were you sharpening freehand of on a fixed angle system? I've had pretty good luck with Spydercos S110v on the Wicked Edge. Though I've begun to think that a more coarse finish off the diamonds and skipping the ceramics is as good or better than taking it all the way up to a high polish. Might be the whole carbide tear out thing, but I can't say for sure.
 
Sharpen with a coarse diamond plate then strop with 1-3 micron diamond compound. Things like Arkansas stones and Chromium oxide will not work with S110v, the 9% Vanadium is too much for them.

Also, fine edges and super steels are not a very good match.
 
Fine side of a Norton Crystalon stone and stop,
or coarse diamond plate followed by a few passes microbevel on an extra fine diamond plate - not enough to erase all the irregularities from the coarse stone, just enough to thin the apex a little.

Acute angles a big plus - is one of the benefits of using super steels in the first place.
 
The Arkansas stone is a waste of time on such a steel. It's natural abrasive, novaculite, is only ~30% as hard as the vanadium carbides in 110V, of which there's a lot of it in that steel. The edge will just get burnished & rounded on such a stone. AND, the stone will become glazed in the process, getting polished by the much harder vanadium carbides, and lose it's effectiveness on everything else you try to sharpen on it.

Stay with diamond from beginning to end (including for stropping), for best results. I'd also go more acute than the 42° inclusive factory edge mentioned; take it down to around 30° or so, or maybe a little lower, and cutting will improve dramatically.


David
 
Diamond stones ONLY ! ! !
Loose the Ark
forget the strops even if diamomd.
I go to 8000 diamomd stone if I want a fine finish = hair whittling.
Yes the lesser stones like the Ark can produce a "false" sharpness that breaks down right away.
I fought that for a long time with my first S110V blade (using Shaptons no less).
Never again. Only diamonds and on a hard surface (diamond stome / plate ).
 
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