How best to get my MBC to work on a firesteel?

Tixx

Tixx

Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
1,767
I've tried, but at best get something quite small and random. I compared it to my fallkniven f1 which just showers on the same firesteel. Appreciate any tips as I was planning on putting this to use as a true camping blade, but this is a must have feature for that to become true. Thanks!
 
Take a small piece of hack saw blade, with the hole in the end, remove the paint. Bingo. Weighs about nothing, you can attach it to the fire steel, and not screw up your knife sparking the firesteel.

I always have my leatherman to throw sparks, and don't ever use the edge or spine on any of my "nice" knives because I don't want to mark them all up.
 
Your knife probably has a slight machined taper on the flat of the spine where it meets the edge of the sides ... to throw sparks this needs to be a flat 90 degree edge with an ability to bite into the firesteel ... to use the spine like this you will need to grind the spine down to remove the taper. It is probably best done nearest the tip ... turn the blade upside down and rub it back and forward on a flat benchstone used for sharpening. Use a coarse grit and expect it to take a while ... but check it as you go ... you can feel the difference with your thumb ...

With the right stones or a wooden block and a set of wet and dry grit papers you can blend in the finish so that it is impossible to tell ... I have done this for my Basic 5 and my Scrapper S5LE and they work excellently with a fire steel ...

P1010164.jpg
 
Thank guys! Good backup plan Bigfattyt! Anyone happen to know who does this type of work?
 
Bigfattyt said:
Take a small piece of hack saw blade, with the hole in the end, remove the paint. Bingo. Weighs about nothing, you can attach it to the fire steel, and not screw up your knife sparking the firesteel.

I always have my leatherman to throw sparks, and don't ever use the edge or spine on any of my "nice" knives because I don't want to mark them all up.
Click to expand...
You can also attach said piece of hacksaw blade to your sheath with a single chicago screw through the hole in the saw blade. Then when it comes time to start a fire, just swing it out, strike your steel using the sheath as an oversized striker handle, then swing it back flush to the sheath.
 
Bowman1911 said:
You can also attach said piece of hacksaw blade to your sheath with a single chicago screw through the hole in the saw blade. Then when it comes time to start a fire, just swing it out, strike your steel using the sheath as an oversized striker handle, then swing it back flush to the sheath.
Click to expand...

That is freakin brilliant!
 
Bowman1911 said:
You can also attach said piece of hacksaw blade to your sheath with a single chicago screw through the hole in the saw blade. Then when it comes time to start a fire, just swing it out, strike your steel using the sheath as an oversized striker handle, then swing it back flush to the sheath.
Click to expand...

You need to "network" that idea around the many "forums" for knives and bushcraft ... it is that good ! :thumbup:

I can see quick release kydex sheaths with swivel fire steel strikers being "standard carry" in years to come ;)
 
Tixx said:
Thank guys! Good backup plan Bigfattyt! Anyone happen to know who does this type of work?
Click to expand...

Yes, you see him when you look in the mirror .... :D



(If you're not happy doing it yourself ring the shop at Busse and I am sure they will take care of you :thumbup: ).
 
PeterPHWS said:
You need to "network" that idea around the many "forums" for knives and bushcraft ... it is that good ! :thumbup:

I can see quick release kydex sheaths with swivel fire steel strikers being "standard carry" in years to come ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words! I liked the idea, but didn't think that much about it. I guess ya'll heard it here first. Normally, if I borrow somebody's idea, I'll give 'em credit, but this one is actually mine. LOL I'm glad the first place I shared it was right here on the Busse forum.:p I'll see if I can get some glamour shots up in the next couple days.


Edited to add: Your post actually means alot to me Peter! Your posts are always informative & quite knowledgeable, so if you say it's a good idea, I'm kinda honored!
 
Last edited:
The amount of times I have read posts by guys on Bushcraft forums ... all saying the same thing that they cannot get a good shower of sparks ( as Ray Mears does ) from the spine on their knives ... but don't want to carry a hack saw striker "loose" on the eyelet of the firesteel ... usually wanting to just carry the steel in a loop on the sheath ... a simple tip like that has got to be well received :thumbup:

I would rank it with the guy who came up with the idea of carrying a simple pencil sharpener to make fine shavings to work with a fire steel ... forget his name but he is a bushcraft instructor over here ...

Just about every CNC machine which makes knives by stock removal will employ a small relief cut on the right angle edge of a spine ... or so it seems ... I have had to do this task of flattening the spine on my two Infi blades above ... my Woodlore ... my Phil Wilson drop point ... on my RMD's I actually took the false clip edge to a sharpened clip for this purpose ... so the amount of times I have had to do this job makes me appreciate a simple solution ... particularly if you have a kydex sheath for the knife with the "eyelets" already made for the job ... so you're more than welcome IMO to a bit of recognition for some sensible thinking :thumbup:
 
Bowman1911 said:
You can also attach said piece of hacksaw blade to your sheath with a single chicago screw through the hole in the saw blade. Then when it comes time to start a fire, just swing it out, strike your steel using the sheath as an oversized striker handle, then swing it back flush to the sheath.
Click to expand...

Bro, have any pics of theis set up?
 
PeterPHWS said:
Yes, you see him when you look in the mirror .... :D



(If you're not happy doing it yourself ring the shop at Busse and I am sure they will take care of you :thumbup: ).
Click to expand...

Ok Michael Jackson! :) Yeah, wish I had the setup to get it right before I was left with a toothpick spike. :)
 
mamun1024 said:
Bro, have any pics of theis set up?
Click to expand...

I do, but it ain't busse content. As long as it don't upset the mods, here they are.
This is in the closed position.

This is in the extended position.

This is a side view showin' the rubber grommet from the chicago screw.


As a side note, the screw has to go through the blade, the nut won't fit unless you drill out the hole in the saw blade. The rubber grommet is there simply for friction to keep the saw blade folded up & out of the way. And when using the striker, always flip it out clockwise, so as to keep the chicago screw tightened, or some locktite is in order.

On a side note, I'm sorry for the off topic, if the mods wish to move or delete, so be it.
 
Bowman1911 said:
I do, but it ain't busse content. As long as it don't upset the mods, here they are.
This is in the closed position.

This is in the extended position.

This is a side view showin' the rubber grommet from the chicago screw.


As a side note, the screw has to go through the blade, the nut won't fit unless you drill out the hole in the saw blade. The rubber grommet is there simply for friction to keep the saw blade folded up & out of the way. And when using the striker, always flip it out clockwise, so as to keep the chicago screw tightened, or some locktite is in order.

On a side note, I'm sorry for the off topic, if the mods wish to move or delete, so be it.
Click to expand...

Very cool. Thanks for the pics and tips. :thumbup:
 
Great idea. Pics help a lot, thanks.
I carry a lighter (not a cheapo), but definately see where it's better "to have rather than need" applies here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top