how best to take out a bad roll?

Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
6,157
I bought a "user" knife and there are a few spots on the edge that appear that someone hit a metal object with it. Maybe they were cutting a cardboard box and hit a big staple. There is a 1/4" length of edge that has a severe roll, bent over maybe 90 degrees or more. How should I straighten this before I start sharpening? I was thinking about using a small diameter steel punch to somewhat iron out the edge and then get on with my sharpening. This is actually a full spyderedge knife but I don't think that will really affect the strategy for fixing the edge.
 
I would cut into the side of my sharpening done and grind the edge down to good solid steel. This will remove any fatigued metal, stop you from over grinding in spot, causing recurves and such, and give you a clean reflection of light among the edge to help gauge progress. Then just sharpen as normal starting with a coarse stone.

Same thing applies for serrated edges. Just use a diamond rod. This will also help retain the shape of the tooth. Scrape the edge on the diamond rod then basically file the edge back on the bevel side, then only light deburring on the flat side.
 
Last edited:
Ps. Straightening a roll acts very similar to bending a paper clip back and forth. Eventually it's going to snap. You're just going to be really disappointed in the edge retention after doing that.
 
Being serrated will effect the sharpening method.

You don't remove a roll before sharpening, you sharpen it out. A roll is damaged steel just the same as a dent of flat spot in the bevel. You have lost material in this area and it needs to be ground equal with the rest of the cutting edge.

For serrated blades use a ceramic rod or 1k waterstone and ONLY sharpen the backside of the serration until a burr is raised on the serrations. To remove the burr I use a polishing wheel, razor sharp every time.
 
I took a few photos today- these are extreme closeups of 2 different SE Enduras

DSC_1390b_zps65f41418.jpg


DSC_1389b_zps5bb0aa3f.jpg
 
Jason's advice on method worked for me on several serrated blades. Just make sure it sharpen the back (flat) side at a very low angle. Have the spine lifted just slightly from the stone. Then get a burr on the scalloped side. Then remove the burr and do some balancing strokes back and forth.

That being said, some of the points and curves on those blades are bad enough that they won't be reshaped by a simple sharpening. I'm sure you can get them sharp. But if you want the original shape back, they need to be reground, preferably by the original jig that made them. I think Spyderco will do it for you for a small fee.

Brian.
 
Spyderco does not sharpen serrations as far as I know.
 
If the serration is really creamed, I've gotten very good results clamping the knife in a vice and using a DMT tapered rod to restore the serration to something close to the original shape. It is time consuming.

This is how I sharpen the clippers for my dog's nails as well.
 
Spyderco does not sharpen serrations as far as I know.

They did at one time, but I have no idea if they still do. I sent a abused Delica I go on ebay to them 4 or 5 years ago and they had it looking (and cutting) like new when I got it back.

And then I lost it. Second one. Something about me a Delicas... :confused:
 
Back
Top