How can I fix my damascus etch?

W

Will Estes

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Apr 25, 2022
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https://imgur.com/5Xmw2sN

How do you get a dark, contrasting etch in your damascus?

I’m working on this knife and I really don’t like the way the etch turned out, but I don’t know how to fix it. I used some pretty diluted ferric chloride for the initial etch (approximately 5:1 with water), and then I used some strong instant coffee to try and darken it. This has worked beautifully in the past, so I don’t really know why it’s not working here. The entire blade seems too dark, but the dark sections aren’t even close to black and it seems to be unevenly etched, with the middle section of the blade a lot lighter than the rest. Does anyone know how to fix this? I know I can just sand it and start over, but I’d really like to avoid that if possible. Also, the coffee didn’t really seem to do anything. I left it in and checked it periodically over several hours, and it did not really change. Am I doing something wrong? What can I do better?
 
Try going over it with 2000 grit paper to polish the ridges. Re etch if needed.
 
light strokes just to polish those ridges and make the pattern pop.
 
Did you fully harden and fully temper the blade?

What is the mix of steels in the damascus?

Hoss
 
DevinT said:
Did you fully harden and fully temper the blade?

What is the mix of steels in the damascus?

Hoss
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I did. After hardening it skated a file, and then I tempered it for 2 hours at 350, I believe. As far as I know, it is 1080 and 15n20. Now, I don’t have a way to corroborate the seller’s claim, but since it hardened well I’m fairly confident that it is true. Or at least it’s some other good hardenable steels.
 
Will Estes said:
Ok cool. Do you know how to get the darker sections more of a black color? They seem a little light to me in comparison to others.
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What worked for me in the past with Chad Nichols Damascus and Vegas Forge Damascus was after neutralizing the acid/etchant (before hitting it with the 2000/3000 grit paper) was spray it with WD-40 and let it set for a while. Not sure if it actually made a difference , but it seemed to.
 
I take a hardwood block and wrap 2000 grit paper around it. Lightly go over the blade rubbing the etch off the high spots.
 
Yes with the 2000 grit. Ya won't find it at the Depot btw auto parts stores will carry it.
 
Walmart and Harbor Freight too...at least around here.
But they don't carry 800 grit...weird.
 
separate but related Q...where is everyone buying their etchant?
 
Our local Radio Shack closed down. So I get it from Jantz these days.
 
I used to get it from Radio Shack, but yeah, shut down. I kick myself for not picking some up from Jantz at Blade.
 
Amazon sells it in liquid form from a quart to a 55-gallon drum with free shipping. It comes in the standard 40%/42° Baume stock solution

I buy it in dry form. Mix it with water. Sometimes it comes in big chunks and other times it is in powder and small chunks. Both are the same.
Here is my standard recipe for mixing it from powder/chunks:

Mix outdoors and don't breathe the fumes when it is dissolving. Wearing gloves and a face shield, is a good practice. Add the powder to the water .... never the other way around. Add slowly.

FC should be mixed to make a 42 Baume stock solution. You add one pound of crystals to 18 ounces of water to get this strength - one pound to one pint is close enough. If your water is heavily mineralized (hard water) use bottler water. If it is normal city water tap water is fine.

Delbert Ealy, who knows a lot about etching solutions, suggests you let it sit for a couple days before use.
Dilute the working solution from this stock . Three parts water to one part stock is what I use. If you are just making up one gallon, skip the stock solution. If making up a larger batch, one gallon of stock solution is easier to store than four gallons of working solution.

The liquid will get warm/hot as you mix it, so add the powder slowly to the liquid in a large heavy plastic drywall type bucket. Add slowly, stir gently, keeping upwind. A fan running behind you to push the chlorine vapors away is a good idea. When the solution has completely mixed, cover loosely and let cool off before transferring into a heavy duty plastic storage bottle. Use a funnel and pour slowly. Pour over dirt or grass, as FC will stain concrete and can ruin deck boards (don't ask me how I know this :) )
 
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