How can I fix this

[Krav]

I do like this knife, d2 steel, flips good. Only problem is it's design. I tried grinding down the heel so I get a flat edge, it's a little better, but if I keep going it will bring the bevel edge way up in the back, if this makes sense. Any ideas?

 

[Krav]

Some more Picts

 

[HeavyHanded]

I do like this knife, d2 steel, flips good. Only problem is it's design. I tried grinding down the heel so I get a flat edge, it's a little better, but if I keep going it will bring the bevel edge way up in the back, if this makes sense. Any ideas?

If it were mine I'd slowly remove more from the belly each time I touched it up. I wouldn't want to remove any more from the heel, so work it from the blem toward the tip. Likely thin the back bevel above it as I went, to maintain the geometry. I'd be in no hurry to do it all at once, that's a lot of good service life lost in the process.

 

[Krav]

If it were mine I'd slowly remove more from the belly each time I touched it up. I wouldn't want to remove any more from the heel, so work it from the blem toward the tip. Likely thin the back bevel above it as I went, to maintain the geometry. I'd be in no hurry to do it all at once, that's a lot of good service life lost in the process.

Thanks, that makes sense. It's just one of those things that bother me, but really won't affect the capabilities of the knife.

 

[cbwx34]

There's nothing wrong, IMO, in creating a wider bevel at the heel to correct this. Here's an example...

If you do this, concentrate the grinding pressure mainly right at the heel, until the edge starts to form.

The alternative is to grind that area at the heel down (90 deg.) to keep it even with the rest of the edge, and so it doesn't interfere with sharpening. (For example, like removing the bolster area on a kitchen knife, to keep it in line).

I'm not sure I understand "removing more from the belly"... that's not where the problem is, and doesn't solve it. You might have to remove some to get everything lined up again (over time), but you can't ignore the heel area. In fact, if you remove the part at the heel sticking down, (one way or the other), it looks like the edge will pretty much fall in line again.

 

[Krav]

There's nothing wrong, IMO, in creating a wider bevel at the heel to correct this. Here's an example...

If you do this, concentrate the grinding pressure mainly right at the heel, until the edge starts to form.

The alternative is to grind that area at the heel down (90 deg.) to keep it even with the rest of the edge, and so it doesn't interfere with sharpening. (For example, like removing the bolster area on a kitchen knife, to keep it in line).

I'm not sure I understand "removing more from the belly"... that's not where the problem is, and doesn't solve it. You might have to remove some to get everything lined up again (over time), but you can't ignore the heel area. In fact, if you remove the part at the heel sticking down, (one way or the other), it looks like the edge will pretty much fall in line again.

Thanks, grinding this down on a W/E is a pain in the behind, I may have to send it to someone with better equipment, and skills, than I have.

 

[woodysone]

You might try Big Chris on the forums, I have heard his work is top notch. After its flat again, I would have him thin out the bevels and have a nice slicer flipper.

 

[HeavyHanded]

There's nothing wrong, IMO, in creating a wider bevel at the heel to correct this. Here's an example...

If you do this, concentrate the grinding pressure mainly right at the heel, until the edge starts to form.

The alternative is to grind that area at the heel down (90 deg.) to keep it even with the rest of the edge, and so it doesn't interfere with sharpening. (For example, like removing the bolster area on a kitchen knife, to keep it in line).

I'm not sure I understand "removing more from the belly"... that's not where the problem is, and doesn't solve it. You might have to remove some to get everything lined up again (over time), but you can't ignore the heel area. In fact, if you remove the part at the heel sticking down, (one way or the other), it looks like the edge will pretty much fall in line again.

If Krav's intention is to straighten out the cutting line, doing all the work from the low point back to the tip of the heel will result in a lot of stock removal - a very thick grind (not really an issue) and then that will have to pushed pretty far into the back bevel. On that knife it will eat up a lot of the sharpening choil and really effect the looks of the edge IMHO, especially with the flipper right next to the fix.

To straighten out the line you can do a lot of work on the heel, or you can work it out from the other side of the low spot and take the belly down to create the new line. IMHO I'd be reluctant to take any more off the heel aside from perhaps a bit of bevel setting, but that isn't going to straighten it out.

The more I look at the pics, the more I'd be inclined to put a shallow recurve back on the edge and call it a day.