How difficult is it to wrap a japanese style knife?

D

Dave S.

Joined
Jan 17, 2002
Messages
12
Lets say that I am able to acquire a finished blade, rayskin, tsuka-ito and a pair of menuki.

The knife would end up being non-traditional, similar to the wraps on a martin blade.

After that, how difficult would it be to wrap the handle myself? Does anyone have a link as to how exactly one attaches the rayskin to the blade, how one impregnates the tsuka-ito in epoxy etc?

I want to make a project out of this for myself, ending up with a custom job that has been fitted and wrapped myself.

If the process is too absurdly hard, then obviously id rather have it done for me, but i like the idea of working on it myself.

If anyone has any insight into the process etc, Id much appreciate it!
-Dave
 
It is not difficult at all, just a bit tricky at first. It is kind of hard to explain through text alone, but i would suggest taht you get the stuff and give it a try then we can work out the problems you find out.
Don't worry IF you can do it because you probably do - it is just a matter of practice.
 
It is really super easy. With a little practice you should be able to wrap a knife handle in about 5-10 minutes.
 
Ah great, i feel alot better. Now if only I can find a smith to make me a finished blade and the hardest part, finding rayskin.

thanks so much for the links.

-Dave
 
Hey there Dave, the link L6 posted is about the best info on the net. One bit of advice is before tackling the menuki, get some shoelace (sorry Ron:)) and practice on a blank first. It isn't that hard to do. One little tool you may want to pick up is a pattern tracer from a leather store. It kind of looks like a very blunt dental pick on one end and a small spoon on the other. After you are done your wrap, you can use the pick to adjust the wrap to perfect proportions. The spoon end is perfectly shaped for jamming the last bit of wrap into the butt hole (couldn't think of another term:)) As for a final finish, I've used fiberglass resin, crazy glue and epoxy. Fiberglass resin has an awful plasticy stench to it that reeked up my whole house. Crazy glue is great for making sure knots don't come undone but if applied to thickly will cause a white haze to form on the surrounding surface. I get my Cyanoacrylate from a woodworking store. It's consistency is like water and it easily wicks into a cordwrap. Crazy Glue off the shelf is much thicker and doesn't soak as well. To actually treat the handle I use a 2 part epoxy wood hardener from Industrial Formulators called S1. When mixed it is like water and the handle soaks it up like a sponge. 3 coats of that. When dry, the handle is as hard as a rock and the definition of the stingrays hide is not hidden like it would be if you used a normal epoxy. I've heard Minwax woodhardener works well as well. What looks really cool (Dr. Lathe does this) is coats the ito or shoelace only with a thick epoxy. The contrast between that and your underlay (wood, same, CF) looks sharp. Hope I didn't put you to sleep.

Hugh
 
Hi Dave,

Try Fred Lohman Co. at: http://www.japanese-swords.com/
for rayskin (same') silk tsukaito (wrapping tape) and menuki and such.

I have purchased some stuff from Fred over the years and find him a reliable source of Japanese style stuff for swords and knives.

Brian
 
If I'm not mistaken, the traditional method of securing the wrap was lacquer. Has anyone here tried it? If so, did you coat the same as well?
 
Originally posted by Dave S.
Ah great, i feel alot better. Now if only I can find a smith to make me a finished blade and the hardest part, finding rayskin.
Click to expand...

It's not so hard, just expensive. Or not...

Try ebay for the ray skin. There's an individual that is selling hundreds via dutch auction. There's bleached at $18.50, black at $14.50, plus a few other colors. The auctions time out soon.
 
I wasn't aware that they used anything other than the tightness of the Tsuka-ito to secure the wrap? I am mid way through a project of my own, and nothing I have seen yet has mentioned soaking the wrap in epoxy, or laquer or anything like that (Except a dap of rice-paste glue to hold the knot down.)

Am I missing something? I am almost to the tsuka-maki part of the project, would hate to blow it now!

Thanks,
Troy
 
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