How do I attach a wood handle? and wood choice.

stingray4540

stingray4540

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Mar 26, 2007
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So, I have a couple of handleless mora blades with long thin tangs. The tangs however are not long enough to be able to thread and put a pommel on the end of the handle. If I carve out a handle and drill/slot it for the tang, what is the best way to securely affix the handle? Just use an epoxy? Pewter? If epoxy, what kind and will that hold it well enough so the knife can see some abuse?

I'm just wondering what would be the best/strongest way to attach a handle in this manner. The handle shape I'm planning on making would look something like this http://playground.sun.com/~vasya/knife53S2.jpg .

Also, do you guys have any suggestions on types of wood that make a good handle? I like the look of cocobolo, ironwood(arizona ironwood?), and maple burl, but I'm not quite sure if they will all work or if one is better than the other for some reason.

And, what do you use to seal the handles with? Or finish them with? Something that won't be slippery when wet because these knives will see alot of water and blood.
 
Most any wood will work well,i prefer birch or maple burl.you didn't list your location,hot or cold climate? i use Hughes epoxy 330 and find no need for a pin. if you are in an extreme cold climate ,stay away fron devcon epoxies as they tend to release at - 10 or below temperatures.the only finish i use is a few coats of tung oil. see link for instructions.

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_CampingPuukko.htm

Daves010a.jpg
 
Sorry, I live in northern California, the climate is mild. I think the coldest it gets in the winter at night is in the teens, but it can get up to 110 in the summer. I do go camping/fishing in the Sierras a couple of times a year and if I go in the early spring it can be pretty cold up there.

Thank you for the link, that is very helpful. Epoxy it is then. Any idea were I could get ahold of stainless steel or silver guards? Or even just some really thin pieces so I can cut the shape I want and cut the tang hole to fit the tangs I have? I never really liked brass.

Tung oil? I've never heard of it before until now. I did a quick google and it sounds like good stuff. Is there any particulare place you get it? Do you use pure tung oil or polymarized tung oil? And, do you dilute it with a thinner when you apply it? I like the fact that it will waterproof the wood, that is very important to me.

One last thing. How does the weep hole work? won't it show and look ugly or does the epoxy fill it in and it isn't very noticable once the handle is finished?

Thanks again for the info.
 
stingray4540 said:
Any idea were I could get ahold of stainless steel or silver guards? Or even just some really thin pieces so I can cut the shape I want and cut the tang hole to fit the tangs I have?
Click to expand...

http://www.onlinemetals.com/ has small quantities of 300 series stainless steels from 1/8" thick up, nickel silver sheet up to 3/32", also copper, aluminum bronze (1/4"+), etc. Minimum quantity for things that come in bars is usually 12" (nickel silver is in sheet form - 12" x 12" minimum).
 
Small quantities of stainless sheet and tube can be found at most Ace Hardware stores or hobby stores. i do not use a weep hole,i use a slow cure epoxy and it is thin enough to fill the tang hole with few bubbles. the tung oil is polymarized tung oil and needs no thinningand can be found at most hardware stores,a small 6 ounce bottle will finish a lot of knife handles.
 
as far as selection of wood goes, it depends on how much money you want to spend, meaning if you want it to be a hard use knife you might not want to use a burl wood that is meant more for presentation knives. Not to mention that if you put a utility finish on that wood compared to a high polish, then it is also a waste of money cause the rough finish will not show all the highlights of the wood. Ironwood is a nice selection cause the grain is so tight it is less likely to warp if it gets wet, maybe. Finishing? Some guys use thin CA(krazy glue). It buffs out pretty nice. if you are really afraid of the wood warping, get stablilzed blocks. Here is one place that I have purchased stabilized blocks from. http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/wood-stabilized.htm There are a couple joints on E bay that sell stabilized wood. Sometimes you can get a deal, sometimes you get outbid, or the price goes too high to be worth it. But if you do not care about money, then get the nastiest most expensive burl that strikes your fancy.
Birchburl.jpg

Preferrably a hardwood so it does not get all dinged up when you beat on your knife. That's my uneducated opinion!:D
 
Hey! I live in a part of northern californnia that sees occasional freezes and 100 summers, too!

And you know what? valley oak, seasoned, is AWESOME.

Since you live here, remember how many walknut we grow, too.......


I use west marine epoxy. I'm a bum. It works. And i get my tung oil at Davis Ace Hardware. :)
 
gixxer: Yay money is an issue if I want my wife to aprove. Thanks for the link they have quite a selection and decent prices.

Koyote: Hah, your not too far from me, well a little bit north and east, I'm in the east bay area. I never thought of walnut, I'll have to look into it. So, I can get tung oil at an Ace Hardware? Cool, that is helpful.

Anyone and everyone: So, if I go with stabilized blocks, should I also use tung oil to seal the wood? Will stabalized wood be much more difficult to cut/wittle/sand?

Thanks everyone for the help so far, I'm learning alot.
 
Well, I've got plenty of valley oak curing, some peach (though I'm not sure how that works as a knife handle yet) and some walnut. If yoou want to stop by sometime.....
 
LOL, I don't know if your quite close enough for stopping by, then again if we were to go visit my grandparents in Sacramento and I just happen to mention at the last minute that I need to stop somewere to meet someone...
 
Well, i get down to the east bay on occasion, and I'm on the way to Sac. If you send me an email or something I'll let you know when I've got some more cut. Need to see what's cured.
 
stabilized wood is not more difficult to work, only difference is the fumes/dust are 10x more toxic than plain sawdust. you have to be real careful not to breathe in the stuff. A respirator is a must (a respirator should always be a must, stabilized wood or not) unless you have a fan and lots of ventilation. The stuff smells really gross if you burn it.
 
Thanks gixxer.

For those of you who use stabilized wood, do you finish it with anything like tung oil or does stabilized wood not need anything? If it doesn't need anything would it hurt to use tung oil?
 
stingray4540 said:
So, I can get tung oil at an Ace Hardware? Cool, that is helpful.

Anyone and everyone: So, if I go with stabilized blocks, should I also use tung oil to seal the wood? Will stabalized wood be much more difficult to cut/wittle/sand?

Thanks everyone for the help so far, I'm learning alot.
Click to expand...

Yup, tung oil is commonly found in any hardware store. As someone else said, a small can will do a LOT of knife handles (or guitar necks!). In fact, I first discovered it working on guitars; properly applied it leaves a pretty durable water-resistant finsh, adds a nice amber glow to the wood, and has a smooth sexy feel almost like raw wood.

You don't need to put any finish on stabilized wood, it's soaked through with "finish". Carve/sand it how you want and buff it as shiny as you like. Some guys use wax to keep them shiny.

There is a way to stabilize wood in your home shop (actually outside or your garage is better, I understand it's retty smelly.) with Minwax Wood Hardener and a mason jar... http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_hints_tips3.htm

Hmmm that link doesn't seem to be working... email me if you want it, I think I saved the info to disc and can send it to you.
 
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