how do I convert beadblast to satin?

spyken

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Apr 29, 2002
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I have a SOG x-ray vision in beadblast. I think it doesn't do justice to the blade. I would like to convert it to a satin finish. Could you guys share with a non-DIY guy like me how to approach the project? please treat me like a total ignoramus in this respect :rolleyes:

(1) what tools/equipment do I need? exactly what grit abrasive paper etc?

(2) do I need to remove the blade (I don't think I dare to because of the arc-lock)?

(3) do I need to clamp down the blade?

(4) how do I avoid ruining the edge?

and any other thing that I need to know....

please help....thanks!

Spyken
 
A sanding block (a piece of wood) helps a lot, the grit of sandpaper determines the level of the finish, start off fairly coarse to remove the dents and even out the finish and then progress until the finish is as you desire. Pick up a sample pack and test them out.

Removing the blade and clamping it down makes things easier, but you should be able to do it without it. Care will be needed of course. Avoiding hitting the edge is certainly possible, but it is likely that you will want to sharpen after finishing. It might in fact be a good idea to blunt it before hand for safety.

-Cliff
 
I think you'll have good luck sanding in only one direction and starting with 320 and slowly moving up to 400 and finishing with 600. The main thing is to stay at 320 until the finish is sanded away to your satisfaction. After you've done a lot of grunt work with 320 (if it feels like you've spent forever, you're an 1/8 of the way there), move on to the 400 to remove the furroughs dug by the 320, not to try to remove anything missed by the 320 (won't work, I've tried). After that, you'll have a nice, satin finish, but 600 will remove furroughs dug by 400. If you're not satisfied with a 600 grit finish, by all means, start getting the higher grit papers.

Clamping the blade or handle in some manner will make the job safer.

Scraping all of this metal away will affect your edge, though it will likely be a positive effect. I scraped the BT2 coating off of the bottom bevel of my 806D2 and then kept going to scrape away some machining lines. The knife now sharpens easier and cuts better.

Here's a picture to either inspire you or frighten you into keeping what you have the way it is:
Tracey8063.jpg
 
Hey Spyken,
Originally posted by spyken
I have a SOG x-ray vision in beadblast. I think it doesn't do justice to the blade. I would like to convert it to a satin finish. Could you guys share with a non-DIY guy like me how to approach the project?
If I were you, I turn the knife over to Vinny in SOG’s technical department. There’s no one else I would trust with my knives. In his shop, he has all the belt grinders, buffing wheels, and associated gadgets to do just about anything to a knife. Call Loretta in SOG’s Customer Service Department (888.SOG.BEST, ext. 240) and talk it through with her. She might assess a $15.00 (or so) shop charge (half of which would cover return shipping/handling) to cover costs, but in the end, your X-Ray Vision would have a satin finish done “right” that looks great! At least that’s how I’d handle it. :)
 
Ron,

I'd have offered the same advice for him to send it in to SOG, but then I noticed that he is located at "east coast singapore", so shipping might be quite an (expensive) hassle for him...
 
Hey Dann,
Originally posted by glockman99
...then I noticed that he is located at "east coast singapore", so shipping might be quite an (expensive) hassle for him...
I didn't catch that. So, unless he wants to sent it to SOG, I quote Rosanne Rosanna-Dana: "Never mind!" ;)
 
Ron,
Thanks for the advice - shipping is rather expensive (USPS from US to Singapore is $25 (for a parcel), I don't know how much Singapore Post charges from Singapore to US, but it won't be cheap either).

HOwever, I am prepared to do that if Vinny can actually grind away the tanto profile to a slightly shortened rounded tanto point (ie. akin to drop point, with a shortened blade of 3.7inch from the original 4inch)...something like Greg Lightfoot's magnum folder. I think the X-ray folder looks absolutely dashing that way. Do you think Vinny or anyone here on the forums can do a job like that for me? I would also like the knife resharpened. I love my x-ray but I think it'll look even sweeter with that re-ground tip and satin finish.

A friend of mine is visiting the States in July for her New York bar exam, and I can save some money by asking her to ship it from New York.

Hope to get some help here....
 
singapore to anywhere in the US is around 8 sgd for registered post (1 knife)
why don't you try asking jason or william at sheares if they know someone who'll do it?
 
Hey Spyken,

A thought. You might want to consider picking up a Night Vision. It's essentially the same knife with the following differences:
  • It has a satin finished blade
  • It has much thicker, stainless steel liners
  • It has G-10 scales
In my opinion, it is a significantly better knife! Actually, it is my favorite folder SOG has ever made. Though discontinued, you might be able to find one on eBay or a knife trading forum. They're still out there.
 
spyken,
try to find a skilled knifemaker in your area, I'm pretty sure that you'll be able to find someone near you who could do that modification at a reaonable price.
 
Let me second the motion to find a knifemaker nearby to do it for you. You might run into all sorts of customs issues in the mail which can put quite a damper on things.

Or, better yet, follow thom's advice and figure out how to do it yourself. If you're chicken, go buy a cheapo knife at the market, bring it back and attack it with your sanding paper/block until you are confident enough to do it.

Option 3 - just save your pennies and buy a different knife. ;)
 
Converting a BB blade to a satin blade seems to be my 2nd favorite hobby. I learned the technique last year. First you need 1500 grit sandpaper. It's very fine. Then get a small block earaser. Wrap the sandpaper around the earasure and rub the blade under a soft flow of water. I do mine in the kitchen sink. I have beautiful satin finishes on the Gerber Air Ranger I, Air Ranger II, Timberline Valleton, MOD Hornet, and I removed the markings off of the Cold Steel Bush Ranger in AUS-8a. It usually takes about 15-20 minutes. Depending on how hard it is to put the knife back together. Good luck.:p
 
A Scotchbrite or similar scouring pad will probably do the trick, and is easier to work with than sand paper.
 
Originally posted by DEA
singapore to anywhere in the US is around 8 sgd for registered post (1 knife)
why don't you try asking jason or william at sheares if they know someone who'll do it?

DEA,
I don't know them...never bought knives from sheares before.

Quiet Storm - I don't know of any local/nearby knifemakers :( - there aren't very many artisans/craftsmen in my highly fast paced and stressed out city....
 
Originally posted by DEA
singapore to anywhere in the US is around 8 sgd for registered post (1 knife)
why don't you try asking jason or william at sheares if they know someone who'll do it?

DEA,
I don't know them...never bought knives from sheares before.

Quiet Storm - I don't know of any local/nearby knifemakers :( - there aren't very many artisans/craftsmen in my highly fast paced and stressed out city....
 
they're very friendly people
just go and look for them, they'll be more than willing to help
at the very least you'll have someone to talk to about knives with :)
 
Go slow. Sit at a desk or some place where you can steady the blade.
Only sand in one direction ... North, North, North.
Not North, South, North, South.
Your sanding block will help keep the grinds from getting rounded over.
Pendentive's cheapie warmup is a good idea.
Watch your fingers and go slow :)
 
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