how do i do a 1080+ slipjoints spring temper?

C

clockworkfish

Joined
Dec 1, 2010
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161
Ok so i figure heat the blades and springs and quench them as directed (will be using canola oil i know parks is better, will get some later) as for tempering the blades i plan to do it at around 400f, now the spring i figure i should take a torch to the back and i have heard that you are supposed to bring the steel to a blue color and that will be about right for the temper. Would this be ok? Do i need to do it more than once? Never done a spring before so this is new and exciting and i want to get it as right as i can the first time.
 
I'm no expert by any means (I've only tempered 2 springs so far) but here's what I did:

[video=youtube_share;jmYoyspuZRY]http://youtu.be/jmYoyspuZRY[/video]
 
You might get by with that as a folder spring, but real spring temper should be around 700° to 750° for the common carbon spring steels. I don't recall for sure, but I believe colors go neutral in that heat range. If you happen to have a bullet casting pot, you can temper in 700° molten lead.
 
LRB said:
You might get by with that as a folder spring, but real spring temper should be around 700° to 750° for the common carbon spring steels. I don't recall for sure, but I believe colors go neutral in that heat range. If you happen to have a bullet casting pot, you can temper in 700° molten lead.
Click to expand...

Yeah...because everyone has a pot of lead lying around.....
 
So, you want to make a knife with it- right? If you are looking for differential hardening, I would try an edge quench (I like backing mine in clay), but edge quenching gives just as good results, but without a hamon. If you bring it to a purple color with a torch, that will be fine as well- just do NOT get the edge to a blue color!!! Get the edge to about a straw color (about 57 Rc, I believe) and then the back to purple. This is only if you want differential tempering though...if it is a small knife,IMHO, I think a fully hardened blade is even better (won't scratch as easily), again, only if it is small.

Hope this helps!
 
LRB said:
You might get by with that as a folder spring, but real spring temper should be around 700° to 750° for the common carbon spring steels. I don't recall for sure, but I believe colors go neutral in that heat range. If you happen to have a bullet casting pot, you can temper in 700° molten lead.
Click to expand...

Not a bad choice for a spring temper, assuming you are familiar with the safety and hazards of casting lead. If you go this route, a little tip, cover the blade with graphite powder before putting it in the lead. When you take it out just give it a light whack and the lead will fall right off.

Temper colors are only a rough guestimate of temp achieved. Residual oil, cleaners, contamintates can all change the color of the steel at different temps.


-X
 
I make a lot of high tension springs from 1095, and sometimes 1084. I harden, then temper to just past blue with a propane torch. When tempering, use a very low flame and play it over the spring-constantly moving the flame. Let the spring air cool.
I have had 1 spring break out of thousands.
 
LRB said:
You might get by with that as a folder spring, but real spring temper should be around 700° to 750° for the common carbon spring steels. I don't recall for sure, but I believe colors go neutral in that heat range. If you happen to have a bullet casting pot, you can temper in 700° molten lead.
Click to expand...

That is a really cool idea, my school has it's own foundry and since it's an art school people cast with all sorts Of stuff down there so i could probably find what i need easy lol. Sounds similar to a salt pot
 
Once I got a Rockwell tester I did some expeirimenting with draws and colors for Rc numbers.
I'm with Bill on this, just bast blue going into a neutral silver gray color on 01, 47ish Rc. Blue was
up there in the low 50's. I like springs above 46 and below 50 if possible. BTW a ton of old slipjoints
blades and springs will test either the same or very close Rc usually low 50's. I usually heat a thicker
steel plate with the spring on it (more control) when the color is right take it off and let it air cool.
Ken.
 
I'm not recommending this procedure, but I thought I would relay how Bill Moran did his springs.

Bill had a shallow pan that he put 1/4" of kerosene in. He hardened the springs, and then placed them in the pan of kerosene. He set the pan on the coal forge and let it heat up until it caught fire. He let it sit there until the kerosene all was gone, and immediately took the pan off. He let the springs sit in it until cooled. He said it made the toughest springs he ever saw.
 
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