How do I fix blade play on my Northwoods Burnside Jack

Ogri

Ogri

Joined
Feb 19, 2016
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Hi, hoping someone can give me some advice. I have a Northwoods Burnside Jack that has had an easy life and hardly been used, however I have recently noticed it has some side to side blade play ( not sure if it was like this from new but I didn't notice).
I would like to know if there is a way for me to adjust the knife and remove the blade play without having to send it back to KSF ?

Thanks
 
You could give the bolster/pin a squeeze in a padded vise, peen the pin flush again, and buff smooth. If it's just a small amount, you might just leave it be. Or you could send it to GEC.

This knife wasn't used much but... the more heavily that you use a knife, the more likely the peened pin construction to loosen. Torque will quickly loosen a pin.
 
You can squeeze the pivot end in a vise. Be sure to put some cardboard or a couple wraps of tape around the bolsters first to protect the finish. Gently squeeze and see if that tightens up the blade play. This works most of the time but be sure to do gentle squeezing. Might have to do it several times to get what you want. There is always the possibility you may get it too tight. Good luck.
 
Peening the pin helps to secure it. If you give it a squeeze in a vise and don't peen the pin, it will be more likely to loosen back up. It may last a good while though, especially if the knife isn't used.

Peened pins is a very old and traditional construction. Victorinox used to build knives with peened pins but they now use rivets which provides a bit more strength. Rivets can also loosen. Most modern knives are held together by screws and are easier to adjust.
 
I agree with Jake on peening the pins. I've done this to one or two of my knives to "mushroom" it out and then sand the bolster over to blend it all in.

I've also heard from a couple users that the reason why the rustic Northwoods develop blade play is due to the 'heat scale' that Northwoods leaves on there.

Since it's somewhat prominent when the covers and liners and constructed together there are slight gaps between full contact of the blade tang against the liners. Hence more probability and likelihood towards blade play.
 
Is the blade play in the open or closed position? I ask because I have a GEC that is rock solid in the open position, but can just about touch both liners when closed : ( Would a squeeze in the vise remedy this? Or should this take a trip back to the shop too?

~Jim
 
okbohn said:
I would recommend sending it to Great Eastern. They made it and can fix it for you. They know their stuff.
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I'll second this. Send it back to GEC.
If you haven't practiced on cheaper knives before, I don't think I would start with a Northwoods Burnside Jack.
 
I don't necessarily disagree about sending it in. It was one option that I mentioned. Chances are that if you need to ask, then you probably shouldn't be peening pins on a knife.

But I'd think hard about whether it's worth sending it in. And if a little bit of play is a big deal, I'd also think hard about whether traditional knives are the right knives for you. Everything is a matter of degree but a small amount of play is not rare with this type of construction. If you're buying knives to use, then you will likely experience the same problem with other knives with the same construction.
 
Jake, I am sorry, but I must dissagree.
Just because it is a "traditional" slip joint does not mean blade wobble is ineventable and to be expected.
None of my slip joints have any blade play. Most are inexpensive Rough Rider, Colt, etc. Heck, even my under $3.00 (give or take) when new 1956-1988 Imperial Barlow (with clam shell construction) does not have any blade wiggle.

To the OP, I'd send it back to GEC for fixing. There is no excuse for an expensive knife like a GEC of any flavor to have blade play; especially when a company like Rough Rider can build and market a slip joint with no blade play for 1/10th or less than what a GEC goes for.
 
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afishhunter said:
Jake, I am sorry, but I must dissagree.
Just because it is a "traditional" slip joint does not mean blade wobble is ineventable and to be expected.
None of my slip joints have any blade play. Most are inexpensive Rough Rider, Colt, etc. Heck, even my under $3.00 (give or take) when new Imperial Barlow (with clam shell construction) does not have any blade wiggle.

To the OP, I'd send it back to GEC for fixing. There is no excuse for an expensive knige likeca GEC of any flavor to have blade play; especially when a company like Rough Rider can build and market a slip joint with no blade play for 1/10th or less than what a GEC goes for.
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I share these opinions.

Blade play is not part of the definition of "traditional", especially at the GEC price point.
 
afishhunter said:
Jake, I am sorry, but I must dissagree.
Just because it is a "traditional" slip joint does not mean blade wobble is ineventable and to be expected.
None of my slip joints have any blade play. Most are inexpensive Rough Rider, Colt, etc. Heck, even my under $3.00 (give or take) when new Imperial Barlow (with clam shell construction) does not have any blade wiggle.

To the OP, I'd send it back to GEC for fixing. There is no excuse for an expensive knige likeca GEC of any flavor to have blade play; especially when a company like Rough Rider can build and market a slip joint with no blade play for 1/10th or less than what a GEC goes for.
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You're misinterpreting what I said.
 
supratentorial said:
You're misinterpreting what I said.
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Jake, you'd best restate your position then, because I interpreted your post the same way.
Your apparent opinion shocked me silly, coming from you.
 
knarfeng said:
Jake, you'd best restate your position then, because I interpreted your post the same way.
Your apparent opinion shocked me silly, coming from you.
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I did say it's "not rare". I didn't say it was "inevitable" or even common. I compared three types of construction. Of the three, a peened pin is the weakest. It's good enough for most normal cutting. If he wants the strongest pivot construction, then a peened pin isn't it.

But it's been sufficient for me for all of my life.
 
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Afishhunter, You've never gotten a loose blade??? I've seen a lot of them including some of those brands. You've got good luck!
 
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LOL If not for "bad luck" I'd have no luck at all, at all.

The most recent knife I bought that had blade play was a nothing fancy bought at Walmart 50th Anniversary Buck 110, that wiggled enough in the closed position to hit the liner. It had and has no play in the open position. A rag and a pair of pliers fixed the wiggle (and improved the centering of the blade). One of these years I'll send it in to Buck to have the pin peened and polished. It is proud now, by about the thickness of a sheet of typing paper. Mr. Houser has already told me they will do that, under warranty.
I bought a regular not Anniversary 110 to use in the meantime.
As for a slip joint with blade wiggle ... I cannot recall the last time I had one. Blade wiggle is a deal killer to me.
 
I agree with the vise-ers and peen-ers. I've done that with several GECs and a Queen made knife. My experience sending a knife to GEC is that it took about 6 weeks to get back, but they did it right, if you want to take that route. Tightening and peening/sanding/buffing to get shiny bolsters back is surprisingly easy - I usually use a headlight restoration kit I picked up at Lowe's that fits into a drill to finish the bolsters back. Going slowly helps; as overtightening can rob you of walk and talk.
 
afishhunter, I've seen at least a few from every manufacturer. I've only seen a few from GEC... mostly from their early days. What Ryouchijtx said about the scale makes sense also. It's similar with old knives that are rusted and cleaned. I've also only seen a few loose blades from Case. I've seen a LOT of Queen knives with blade play over the years. But I don't have much experience with the knives after the recent ownership change. You'll see more when buying antique knives, especially ones that have seen a lot of use or are used up. Sometimes the fluff and buffers will even loosen up a blade if he is pressing hard when buffing. I avoid buffed antique knives anyway since the finish isn't original.
 
okbohn said:
I would recommend sending it to Great Eastern. They made it and can fix it for you. They know their stuff.
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I agree! GEC has an absolutely aces service department. I sent in a broken tip on my grandson’s warncliff blade and they fixed it. Not typical since it’s not a warranty issue, but they are so nice.
 
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