How do I get more of a utiity edge on my sng.

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ENGINEER

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As I mentioned in another post I have a strider sng and use it for work. When I got it, it was really sharp, but needed to re profile it for my sharp maker just like I do any other knife. It has been a lot of work. I have finally got it so when I put the sharpie on the bevel, with a few swipes, it is completely off on the sharp makers brown stones. Though I have it sharp, it never seems to stay sharp and the actual edge seems quite venerable. The Bevel got really big during the re profiling process and the edge seems really thin. It really just goes dull fast and sometimes bends and chips, but nothing major. Is there anything I could do to strengthen the edge. I would like it to be more of a utility edge, that will last a long time without sharpening rather than having to re-profile everyday. Other than this it is one of the best knives I have ever handled. I just wish strider used 20° instead of 23.5°.


Thanks all.
 
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Sounds like your edge is too thin for the blade and material, and you aren't getting rid of the burr.

15 degrees minimum per side and make sure that there is no burr on either side which can be sharp but bends over and can crack.
 
ENGINEER said:
Though I have it sharp, it never seems to stay sharp and the actual edge seems quite venerable. The Bevel got really big during the re profiling process and the edge seems really thin. It really just goes dull fast and sometimes bends and chips, but nothing major.

Thanks all.
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Without seeing the blade it would be difficult to say the least in giving advice on the blade. Assuming your sharpening techniques are in order, Sounds to me like you have a hard, brittle blade. You may want to address this with Strider. They may replace it

The knives that I put in service for food and skinning, I too put a long bevel (15 degrees?) then I put a steeper bevel for my cutting edge.

If it were mine, and I elected not to send it back for evaluation, I would remove the chips and put a steep bevel on the cutting edge to give some support.

If the chipping continues Strider would be getting some communication from me.

Bridges
 
My Strider SMF edge is re-profiled to 10 degree main bevels with 15 degree micro-bevels. It's a good combination for slicing materials up to hardwoods such as used for rake or broom handles.

Any final edge more acute than 30 degrees included fails (micro-chips) on hard woods with any serious cutting pressure.

Hope this helps!
 
From the description of the change - to long bevels that chip and dull quickly - I would say you put on a too thin an edge. The factory Strider included angle is known for being too obtuse for some, but it was apparently chosen for its durability in hard use, which I would consider to be the better edge for utility.

As suggested, micro bevel it back to the larger angle and you'll find yourself sharpening less. Also consider what you're cutting - materials with inherent high hardness such as metal, or contaminated with dirt, will dull an edge very quickly. Wire cutters and replaceable blade job knives are better tools for those applications simply because they are designed for the work, where the SnG is more general purpose for softer materials, like any knife.

I really wouldn't blame the maker for any knife being used to cut aggressive materials chipping and going dull - general expectations in this regard have really inflated in the last few years without a realistic appreciation of what a knife steel can tolerate.

It's like your young wife borrowing your wood chisels to pry nails out of sheet rock studs . . . of course they got chipped and dulled, just like the flatware knives from the dinner set, too . . .

Nice old set of gasket scrapers now . . .
 
Cliff Stamp said:
What types of material are you cutting?

-Cliff
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Cliff sometimes its wood, others just paper. and other plastic from computer cases.




65535 said:
Sounds like your edge is too thin for the blade and material, and you aren't getting rid of the burr.

15 degrees minimum per side and make sure that there is no burr on either side which can be sharp but bends over and can crack.
Click to expand...

I should move to the 30 degree side of the sharpmaker then.




Bridges said:
Without seeing the blade it would be difficult to say the least in giving advice on the blade. Assuming your sharpening techniques are in order, Sounds to me like you have a hard, brittle blade. You may want to address this with Strider. They may replace it

The knives that I put in service for food and skinning, I too put a long bevel (15 degrees?) then I put a steeper bevel for my cutting edge.

If it were mine, and I elected not to send it back for evaluation, I would remove the chips and put a steep bevel on the cutting edge to give some support.

If the chipping continues Strider would be getting some communication from me.

Bridges
Click to expand...

So we put a steep bevel on it by sharpening it at the 40° and then sharpening it at the 30° side.





tirod3 said:
From the description of the change - to long bevels that chip and dull quickly - I would say you put on a too thin an edge. The factory Strider included angle is known for being too obtuse for some, but it was apparently chosen for its durability in hard use, which I would consider to be the better edge for utility.

As suggested, micro bevel it back to the larger angle and you'll find yourself sharpening less. Also consider what you're cutting - materials with inherent high hardness such as metal, or contaminated with dirt, will dull an edge very quickly. Wire cutters and replaceable blade job knives are better tools for those applications simply because they are designed for the work, where the SnG is more general purpose for softer materials, like any knife.

I really wouldn't blame the maker for any knife being used to cut aggressive materials chipping and going dull - general expectations in this regard have really inflated in the last few years without a realistic appreciation of what a knife steel can tolerate.

It's like your young wife borrowing your wood chisels to pry nails out of sheet rock studs . . . of course they got chipped and dulled, just like the flatware knives from the dinner set, too . . .

Nice old set of gasket scrapers now . . .
Click to expand...


So I should get its micro bevel back to 20°+, I can see it but dont really know how to do it with the sharpmaker. I have a few ceramic and Norton hones, but I don't think I am to comfortable with free hand.
 
Sounds like a blown heat treatment to me. And yeah, sharpen at 30 then micro bevel at 40.
 
For those types of materials the edge should not be behaving as you describe. I would get it inspected.

-Cliff
 
I'd be patient they usually are busy and get to things as they can. They should be just getting back from Lunch.

Could you just have a burr that hasn't popped off?
 
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