how do i grind a back bevel with my 204 sharpmaker

Set the sticks to 15 degree's and start sharpening the knife.

I use a very soft lead pencil to mark the blade so I can see when I am finished doing this. One one pass removes the pencil from the very edge, you know you are there.

Do the usual things to see that both sides are equaly sharp.

Now use the sticks you want to use at 20 degree's and hey presto you have a backbevel at 15 degree's and a primary at 20 degree's.

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Wayne.
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
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thanks for the quick reply, general. That helps. i thought it had something to do with tilting the blade slightly, but i'll try that and see if i can get good results with it. Pete
 
No problem! I try to help where possible. I have spent a lot of time with the 203 and 204. Out of interest what are you back beveling?

Its a stupid question, but are you aware why we use a back bevel? I know, but I just wanted to make sure it will do what you want.

It WON'T make your knife a lot sharper, unless the blade has been sharpened a lot in the past and has become very thick near the edge. YOu only need to backbevel after an average of 10-15 full re-sharpens at 20 per side.

------------------
Wayne.
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
http://members.aol.com/knivesuk/
Certified steel snob!
 
what i was trying to do was what juranich calls double edging, ie since the fine hone only removes a small amount of metal you would use it to form the actual cutting edge, rather than polishing the edge set by the coarse rods. if you have the book, i'm referring to what he says around page 23. Perhaps i have misunderstood something. oh yeah, i'm sharpening my openiel #8 to try to refine my technique, don't want to risk screwing up my sebenza at this point. Thanks, Pete
 
I don't have the book handy (assuming you are refering to the Sharpmaker 204 manual)

Are you refering to an appleseed/Moran/Convex grind?

I have the Sebi as well as a Spyderco Moran an am thinking of using this 15/20 as a way of getting a type of Convex edge.

------------------
Wayne.
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
http://members.aol.com/knivesuk/
Certified steel snob!
 
no, sorry, what i was referring to was John Juranich's book, "the razor edge book of sharpening". i wasn't aware the sebi was a moran grind, i thought it was a deep hollow grind. In this thread crayola describes what i was basically trying to do in his first post better than i can.
If you are able to touch up a convex grind using these methods i would be curious to hear of your results.
 
Enter Crayola!!

Back beveling SURE DOES make a difference in cutting, but this kinda depends on what you are cutting.

The Sebi may have a moran EDGE, but the main grind is hollow. I flat grind the knives I make (I have made very few) but I convex (moran) grind the edges. What a combo!!

You can back bevel on the sharpmaker doing the 15 degree bit and then the 20 degrees, but you may want to go and get a coarse stone and freehand the back beveling. You don't have to be super accurate with back beveling, and a coarse stone from Wal-Mart or Sears will do ya just fine. of course an x-coarse DMT WOULD be quicker, as would a belt sander.

Good luck refining your technique! I spend a bit of time on my grinder to help improve my moran edging. With patience, reading, asking and a whole lotta experimentation, we can all get wicked sharp edges, and then go on to make them even better.

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"Come What May..."
 
Crayola is right, the edge has a convex grind, but the blade itself is hollow ground. I am still somewhat puzzled for the need to backbevel on this knife unless it is practicaly worn out! I will look at the link.


------------------
Wayne.
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
http://members.aol.com/knivesuk/
Certified steel snob!
 
For a fine slicing edge, I use a bench stone to remove metal at an angle somewhat less than 15 degrees per side, continuing until I get a wire edge.

Then the 204 Sharpmaker can be used to remove the wire edge, with the stones set to 30 degree included angle.

Finally, a leather strop with abrasive powders serves to polish the edges and also establish a 'mini-convex' edge. Since the leather has some elasticity, the degree of pressure on the back-strokes will determine the amount of rounding on the narrow convex edge.

Basically, the result is a compound grind with a mini-convex final edge that's not only very sharp, but also less fragile than a final straight grind.

Works for me.
 
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