How do I hang this thing?

jblyttle

jblyttle

Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
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Finally for the first time I had a friend ask me to hang a head for him. I first asked him to sell it to me, he said no. ;) It is a nice double bit, but it is pretty symmetrical. I'm not certain which end is up! Any opinions? It's a 3.5lb head BTW, what is this pattern called? I want to do this right so he will owe me lol.



 
I'm inclined to say the orientation in the 2nd picture JB.

If it was marked True Temper only I would give pause but I get the feeling (from a picture on the interweb) that the MW is the main mark.

I bet that turns out nice!

Swamping or peeling pattern maybe?
 
Whichever side has the larger eye opening should be the top of the axe.

Whoops...I didn't realize who posted. I know you knew this already...my mistake.
 
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I think some guys have said that there were symmetrical DBs when this has come up in the past, so it probably doesn't matter. The eye might be tapered in both directions like a hammer. I hung one like that for a friend - couldn't tell up from down. I don't even remember if the eye was tapered in both directions or not though but if yours measures the same on both ends, I'd just hang it however it looks best, or however the dog(s) seem to like better when I ask them. :P
 
cityofthesouth said:
I think some guys have said that there were symmetrical DBs when this has come up in the past, so it probably doesn't matter. The eye might be tapered in both directions like a hammer. I hung one like that for a friend - couldn't tell up from down. I don't even remember if the eye was tapered in both directions or not though but if yours measures the same on both ends, I'd just hang it however it looks best, or however the dog(s) seem to like better when I ask them. :P
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This is true too! I should have mentioned it. If they eye is the same on both ends, hang it how ya like it!
 
so far so good, the above advice is all,good.
you might widen the kerf the V, the slot where the wood wedge is fitted in the end of the handle.
test fit the axe head make sure the wood wedge will come close to the bottom of the kerf when driven in.
whatever work you want to do to the head like sharpening, be sure and do it before you hang the head.
thanks for the pictures
buzz
 
markv said:
so far so good, the above advice is all,good.
you might widen the kerf the V, the slot where the wood wedge is fitted in the end of the handle.
test fit the axe head make sure the wood wedge will come close to the bottom of the kerf when driven in.
whatever work you want to do to the head like sharpening, be sure and do it before you hang the head.
thanks for the pictures
buzz
Click to expand...

Thanks, I do know what a kerf is. I didn't mean to come across like a newb, I've hung quite a few axes/hatchet/hammers, it's just that this symmetrical DB was an unknown and I wanted advise before I did it. The eye is the same on both sides, so like many have suggested I will just do what is most visually pleasing. I'm about to try doing a wooden cross wedge, but not on this one. I'll try that on my next hammer.
 
He knows all about hanging, I think it's just the symmetry of this particular head that's the issue. ;)

ETA: simultaneous posts!
 
If the eye is the same then the axe was designed to be reversible. You can flip the head as the toe wears.
 
halfaxe said:
If the eye is the same then the axe was designed to be reversible. You can flip the head as the toe wears.
Click to expand...

Or it was forged/manufactured incorrectly. Yeah that's it...probably a defective unit. You can send it to me and I'll get rid of it for you. It's not a pattern I've been looking for or anything. ;)
 
jblyttle said:
Thanks, I do know what a kerf is. I didn't mean to come across like a newb, I've hung quite a few axes/hatchet/hammers, it's just that this symmetrical DB was an unknown and I wanted advise before I did it. The eye is the same on both sides, so like many have suggested I will just do what is most visually pleasing. I'm about to try doing a wooden cross wedge, but not on this one. I'll try that on my next hammer.
Click to expand...
yep, i dig totally dig. i thought about qualifying all my advice but wasn't sure.
glad you have it figured out.
i have messed with so many axes over the years, lol i'm still learning something new every time i work on a new axe.
i get plenty good info from this subforum.
i do have a feller much like yours, it is a Collins Legitimus. i really need to hang it.
lol again, i need to remember to take my own advice about doing all the work on the axe before i hang it. i get in a hurry

buzz
 
I guess this is how. This was a store bought handle of median quality, very good but no work of art. I stripped it of lacquer and oiled/waxed it. The wedge is walnut. Not the best ever shown but a very good worker.

BTW I learned something new- files/rasps of a few different coarseness are much better for shaping/finishing the top after cutoff than a belt sander. Material removal is almost as fast but with more consistent finish and no burn marks. Give it a try.




 
Looks hung for life to me man. I tend to be harder on myself when it's for someone else but that looks like a solid wedge and hang.
 
i think you nailed it.
looks perfect to me.
i totally get the Walnut wedge. i keep a lot of walnut billets around the shop for lid knobs,knife handles and whatever comes along. wedges included etc,...
here in Mudzoory we have a great concentration of Black Walnut trees.
i appreciate the fact you didn't grind off all the blue on this fine head. i hate to see axes scrubbed down to bare metal.
 
jblyttle said:
I guess this is how. This was a store bought handle of median quality, very good but no work of art. I stripped it of lacquer and oiled/waxed it. The wedge is walnut. Not the best ever shown but a very good worker.

BTW I learned something new- files/rasps of a few different coarseness are much better for shaping/finishing the top after cutoff than a belt sander. Material removal is almost as fast but with more consistent finish and no burn marks. Give it a try.
Click to expand...

Looks great! And it's funny you mention the rasp vs. sander. I've started using various rasp courseness on my hangings lately as well. After the coarse work, the finer sections of the 4-in-Hands works great for smoothing out the handle, and give a great looking "coarse-but-smooth" finish. I think I'll be roughing up the bottom of my handles with the finer finishing sections of the rasp from now on.
 
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