How do I keep from rounding off my tips when using the Worksharp?

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May 23, 2013
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I was hoping someone with some experience on the Darex Worksharp could tell me how to sharpen the tips on my knives without rounding them off. I have tried letting off the power just before the end of the blade, and not pulling all the way through, but then the tip doesn't get sharpened. Is there some happy medium I need to reach, or a technique that I'm missing?
 
You need to finish your stroke with the tip on the middle of the sharpening surface. I'm not sure if your rig is powered or not. Don't wrap the tip over the edge of the sharpening surface. I don't like sharpening rods because it is hard not to wrap the tip over the round surface (dulling the tip).
Practice on flea market knives. It's all in the wrist.
 
It's this, a small powered belt sander:

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So far I'm only using it on my junky old kitchen knives. I've managed to get the majority of the edges very sharp, I just end up either rounding off the very point, or not sharpening it at all.
 
Lift the tip up off the belt before it slips off on it's own. This takes some getting used to as there is an ever-so-slight pause at the end of the stroke, which can make a facet on the tip. Not a big deal, though, and easy enough to correct.

I've never used a Worksharp, but I use a belt grinder at home and a Chef's Choice at work. The Chef's Choice is guided like the Worksharp, so I know there may be limited space in there in which to lift.
 
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Definitely practice on the old kitchen knives until you feel confident. I no longer use the guide that comes with it, and so can hold the knife a little higher on the belt where there is less slack. That helps a lot. Given the choice between rounding the tip, and not sharpening it at all, I'd rather stop a little early, and finish the tip by hand.
 
Read a lot on this site and much more "on another site" how important it is to practice with the unit before entrusting it to your favorite knives. Some folks have actually ruined their favorites by using them as practice knives! I have read of folks that have really put the unit to work on the old kitchen knives to get the hang of it seem to have the most success.

And in the live demos I have seen at the gun shows (same guy every time) he does a little flick up at the end, and the knives I have seen that he sharpened had perfectly sharpened edges all the way to the tip, with no burn.

Robert
 
I use one to get a primary bevel, then finish with a wicked edge on the knives ive made, I've found that you let off the power right before you get to the tip. The belt should stop right after you pass it with the tip. Works for me
 
Hey thanks for all the replies, guys! I'm going to keep practicing on the cheap knives and trying to get the lift technique down. Is it possible to put a point back on the ones I rounded with the coarse belt and the right technique? Or should I just use a stone for that?
 
Regrind the spine(just at the tip) to meet the sharpened edge. I've re-pointed alot of knives, and have never had to go back very far on the spine to keep it looking right. 1/2 inch at the most. If your technique is sound, do it before you sharpen to avoid burrs on your newly formed tip. Just be aware that any finish on the blade(coatings, patinas, etc.) will no longer be present on that part of the spine.
 
I just had to do that for a friends HEST, instead of coming to me, he let a pro shop butcher his edge and tip, thick spine combined with a round tip made for several minutes of tip repair.

I'd concentrate on less pressure into the belt and a light touch taking the blade off. Finesse it a bit.
 
I definitely need to work on the finesse. I don't have the most steady hands and am usually a "hit it with a big hammer" kind of guy when it comes to fixing stuff.
 
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