How do I perfectly sharpen using the Sharpmaker?

[Edged_Philosopher]

Hey everyone.

I, like many of you, have a Triangle Sharpmaker I use to sharpen and maintain my knives. When I sharpen my knives, however, I notice that the cutting edge is NOT centered. What I mean by this is that when sharpening the knife, on the left-hand-side stroke (left side of the blade if looking from bird's eye view of the spine) there is far more abrasion on the down stroke and metal being shaved off than the right side.

My knives are still acceptably sharp, but they're not razors nor do they have polished edges (I know I probably won't be able to accomplish either with the Sharpmaker). What am I doing wrong? How do I get the most use out of my Sharpmaker? And yes, I've watched the instructional DVD many times over.

Thanks!

 

[I be he]

Use either a diamond stone or some course wet-dry to thin out your blade quicker, then return to the sharpmaker to finish with. You should be able to shave with the brown ceramics, if done right. Dont go from 220 to the sharpmaker, make sure you use a couple grits, 220, 400 and maybe 600 before starting on the sharpmaker.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Use either a diamond stone or some course wet-dry to thin out your blade quicker, then return to the sharpmaker to finish with. You should be able to shave with the brown ceramics, if done right. Dont go from 220 to the sharpmaker, make sure you use a couple grits, 220, 400 and maybe 600 before starting on the sharpmaker.

Thank you, but all I have is the Sharpmaker.

 

[rpttrsn]

You can accomplish a razor sharp edge with the sharpmaker. Staying 90 degrees to the base is important in keeping the bevel the same. I have found that when I show someone how to use it, I watch from in front of them. I seem to have a better view if they are staying 90 degrees with both the left and right stroke. Another important thing I have learned is the amount of pressure that you apply to the rods. Don't use to much. A light amount is all you should need. Keep the rods clean and with anything else it takes practice. A great cleaning aid is Bartenders Friend which can be found in many grocery stores.
Use a sharpie to mark the edge for a better idea if your holding 90 degrees. I also have the UF rods which refines the edge even more.
Welcome to the forum.

 

[ArchAngel]

I have found another thing that can help keep your angles correct.
I clamp the Sharpmaker to a table, and hold the knife with both hands.
Watch the spine of the blade as you are drawing it along the rods. keep a visual that you have it perfectly at 90% to the table. It takes concentration but is easier as you now have two hands to help keep it square.

 

[Sulaco]

I suppose there's the possibility that all of the knives you have are ground the same way. But more than likely, just based on what you've said, you aren't holding the knife the same way on both sides. I know for me it's easy to get "off" a little on the left side. I really have to focus and make sure my wrist is locked on both sides.

But if your grinds are off, you need to re-profile. I'd recommend (like others have mentioned) the sandpaper and a Sharpie approach. It works great.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Thanks for all the great input folks!

As far as re-profiling goes, I'm too scared do anything substantial to my knives since I'm a sharpening newb. I'd only feel comfortable re-profiling if I were using a better guided system like the Edge Pro.

 

[HuntBomb]

Just practice reprofiling with a cheaper blade.
Keep your angle constant and don't rush.

 

[Handwrecker]

The best tips I can give you are:

- take your time, no need to rush it
- use very light pressure. I try to use the lightest touch I can, especially when doing the microbevel.
- keep your angle as consistent as possible.
- if your primary bevel isn't good/done properly then your microbevel will suffer. Make sure that you're edge is being sharpened all the way to the very edge before doing the microbevel.

And just a note on the Sharpmaker, but am I the only one that finds that I get better/more consistent results from the corners of the rods? The corners seem better for the very tip of the blade, plus the very end right before handle/choil too.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Just practice reprofiling with a cheaper blade.
Keep your angle constant and don't rush.

Unfortunately, I don't have cheaper blades on me. I took another look at my Aegis. Wow is that edge skewed! I think I'm going to go ahead and re-profile it.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Also, what is a microbevel and how do I put one on my blade?

 

[Handwrecker]

This picture will help explain.

Your primary bevel is the larger, easily visible edge (red part). This should meet up from both sides to form a very sharp edge before you worry about the micro bevel. This is what the 30* setting of your Sharpmaker is there to establish.

The micro bevel (tiny green part) is where you sharpen up the very very tip of your edge, refining the plane where your two primary bevels meet. You use the 40* setting to touch up this tiny part of your blade. It makes touchups much quicker and easier, plus it gives your edge a little extra strength since it's a more obtuse angle than your primary bevel without losing cutting ability. There's a ton of info here in MTE; a quick search will give you hours of reading on this very subject.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

This picture will help explain.

Your primary bevel is the larger, easily visible edge (red part). This should meet up from both sides to form a very sharp edge before you worry about the micro bevel. This is what the 30* setting of your Sharpmaker is there to establish.

The micro bevel (tiny green part) is where you sharpen up the very very tip of your edge, refining the plane where your two primary bevels meet. You use the 40* setting to touch up this tiny part of your blade. It makes touchups much quicker and easier, plus it gives your edge a little extra strength since it's a more obtuse angle than your primary bevel without losing cutting ability. There's a ton of info here in MTE; a quick search will give you hours of reading on this very subject.

Thank you!!

Here's my plan of attack: "re-center" the blade edge using the 30 degree setting using the coarse stone. Then polish suckers up with the fine stones.

Switch to the 40 degree setting and do the same thing.

Am I close?

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Also, how often should I wash my stones and with what chemicals? Using Ajax and a coarse sponge seems to work well.

 

[RevDevil]

Also, how often should I wash my stones and with what chemicals? Using Ajax and a coarse sponge seems to work well.

Wash them as soon as you feel that they are not removing metal. It's one of those things you can figure out with enough practice. Ajax and Scotchbrite is fine, just make sure you rinse them really well and dry them off really well too (it removes any residue left over). It's explained in the DVD, really need to watch it to understand (I know you said you've watched it, but it's all there laid out by Sal).

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Wash them as soon as you feel that they are not removing metal. It's one of those things you can figure out with enough practice. Ajax and Scotchbrite is fine, just make sure you rinse them really well and dry them off really well too (it removes any residue left over). It's explained in the DVD, really need to watch it to understand (I know you said you've watched it, but it's all there laid out by Sal).

Thank you.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Well, I'm going to re-profile my SOG Aegis tonight. Wish me luck gentlemen.

 

[Bryan J]

Thank you!!

Here's my plan of attack: "re-center" the blade edge using the 30 degree setting using the coarse stone. Then polish suckers up with the fine stones.

Switch to the 40 degree setting and do the same thing.

Am I close?

The Sharpmaker doesn't come with any coarse stones. You will need sandpaper or the diamond stones--and even with these, grinding a 30 degree bevel can take a very long time. I use a grit progression like 160>220>400>600>1000>2000. Once the backbevel is well-polished, I move to the medium stones to add the 40 degree microbevel, followed by refinement with the fine stones. After a brief stropping, the edge will be scary sharp.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

The Sharpmaker doesn't come with any coarse stones. You will need sandpaper or the diamond stones--and even with these, grinding a 30 degree bevel can take a very long time. I use a grit progression like 160>220>400>600>1000>2000. Once the backbevel is well-polished, I move to the medium stones to add the 40 degree microbevel, followed by refinement with the fine stones. After a brief stropping, the edge will be scary sharp.

Yeah, well, I can't exactly afford an Edge Pro at the moment, so I work with what I got.

That being said, I took about 2 1/2 hours "re-profiling" my Aegis. Re-worked the edge at 30 degrees and then again at 40 degrees. Seems to be cutting better now and the edge is a bit straighter. After I find employment I will immediately buy myself an Edge Pro as well as a 950 Rift, and then save up for a firearm.

 

[Edged_Philosopher]

Thank you all for the great input! I have to say I've been sharpening better. What I do is focus on my thumb and spine of the blade, lock my wrist, and watch it as I make the stroke, being careful to not change the angle. I also shift from left to right a bit on each respective stone to get a better view.

Thanks again!