How do you apply a superglue finish to wood?

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Grapevine

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Mar 5, 2002
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Excuse the super newbie question, and a non knife related subject at that...

I'm building a little box for my Mom to hold some of her jewelry that she'll pass down to my sister. I'll be making it out of ironwood burl slabs that I bought at a knife show. I keep reading about using thin superglue as a finish coating for wood and want to experiment on some scrap pieces to see if it'd be a good thing to do for this box. I already know I can finish it with danish oil and Renaissance wax if need be, but I'm very curious about the superglue thing.

How is it applied...with a brush, dipping? Any precautions to take to keep the brush hairs from sticking together and becoming a spatula? Where do I get it in enough quantities to apply (I only know of the little tubes you get at hardware stores)? Do I need to thin it first? I'm sure there are other questions that I need to ask but don't know to ask, so an elementary instruction would be most appreciated.
 
I believe one top maker uses lint free photographer's wipes to evenly smooth out the glue. I understand NOT sanding between coats is also his practice. Rubber gloves would be a must, of course. Knifemaker suppliers have larger size bottles. Nuking the bottles in the microwave ONE SECOND INCREASE AT A TIME (think of the mess) will thin it.
 
Applying CA glue to a box? Hmmm... sounds like a big area to cover, but hey, I learn something new every day! I think if I were going to use it as a finish, I would use as slow-setting a variety as I could... and a respirator and goggles. The fumes can be brutal on your lungs and eyes.

Also, if'n I may... Ironwood really don't need much of a finish. sanding to 900-1200 and maybe buffing would be very nice.
 
If you have local woodworkign stores they should ahve the bigger bottles of glue too. Least one by me does.
 
For Ironwood, I would just use Watco natural Danish oil(after sanding), as per instructions, then buff.

That said, I have found that the most even way to spread CA is with a thick felt pad.
You soak one end with the glue, and wipe it on. It acts like a brush.

When it starts to harden on the felt, just cut that end off and reapply the glue.

After you have enough coats on, and it cures, you will have to finish sand, and polish to get a smooth finish on the wood.

Again, I don't think Ironwood needs that kind of coating at all.

BTW, don't breathe the dust from Ironwood, it is highly toxic, and can really do a number on your lungs.:eek:
 
Thanks for the quick replies everyone.

Mike, Danish oil and buffing is how I was going to finish the wood, and still may depending on how my experiements on the scrap turn out. But the slabs that I have from the knife show, one side has a hard smooth glossy coat and the other is unfinished. I'd like to mimic that glossy finish that's on there. I know the finished side isn't oil and wax, it's harder and at an angle reflects light differently than when finished with oil and buffing. It definitely looks like a very thin "plastic" coating. I doubt it's polyurethane. I was wondering whether this is the superglue finish since I read from AG Russell once that one of the biggest suppliers of ironwood in the business uses superglue as a finish.
 
Originally posted by Grapevine
I doubt it's polyurethane. I was wondering whether this is the superglue finish since I read from AG Russell once that one of the biggest suppliers of ironwood in the business uses superglue as a finish.
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I really doubt it's superglue. That stuff is too expensive to use like that, in that kind of volume.

Plus, the stuff is just going to get sanded off by whoever buys it.
More likely thinned varnish, polyurethane, polycrylic, etc.

They just need something quick drying to show the grain.
 
I have used superglue on cocobolo which is hard and oily. It leaves a finish like glass. I used the tips of latex gloves (the cheap ones you get like 50 in a box) on my index finger. I use "Hot Stuff" in the red bottle which is not thick. I rub a coat as fast as I can and spritz with the accelerator which dries it instantly. I then use 600 grit paper to even it out. Repeat this for about 3 coats or so. You just want to take the high spots off. If you sand too heavy you will take off a coat. After you get the thickness you want and the finish is even touch it up with some 1500 and then gently buff with the finest buffing compound you have and a loose wheel. Go easy and don't press, itis basically plastic and will polish very quickly. The fumes can be bad just don't get you nose near it. You will find "hot stuff" at any quality wood store.
 
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