How do you epoxy handles?

D

Dagr

Joined
Jan 25, 2006
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I am planning out the construction of a half dozen full tang knives. I very much like the appearance of mosic pinned handles. I assume that to hold the handle slabs to the tang an epoxy is required.

Will this set up be strong enough for use? I don't ever want to worry about my knife falling apart.

So should I use something in addition to the epoxy and pins? and if so what?

Thanks,
~ Dagr
 
All you need is the epoxy and the pins,just make sure the tang and handle scales are rough rather than smooth,wouldn't hurt to scuff the outside diameter of the pins also.Try to use a higher grade epoxy if available
 
For the ultimate in bond strength when using epoxy, try to bead blast the contact surfaces. If you don't have a bead blaster, 60 grit sand paper works well.
 
A follow up to the main question. Should you insert the pins while the epoxy cures? The last(first) time i tried epoxiing my scales to the handle i noticed that it was literaly like trying to stick a puck to ice. The scales kept slipping off the handle. The more pressure i applied to the scales, the more they slipped. So should you pin the scales or is there another way to get the scales to stay where you want them to?
 
I epoxy my scales and pins in at the same time. Make sure the slabs are rough inside and you can really rough them up towards the middle wher it won't show. This will give the epoxy something more to hold on to. Use slow setting epoxy.
 
I have epoxy thinner and small pieces of paper towel and a tooth pick ready.
Put epoxu on one side and slip the pins in, then epoxy the other side and put the handle together. Clamp it up and wipe the front of the scales clean with the paper towels and toothpick :)
 
All good advise.Other ways to make super sure that the scales stay on tight are:
1) Use Corby rivets on the ends and a mosaic rivet in the center.(Great for working knives that will get a lot of abuse and washing)
2) Drill LOTS of 1/4" holes all over the tang.This allows the epoxy to connect the two scales directly.I have never seen a handle fail that was done this way.This is a good idea for all full tang knives,regardless of how the handle is attached.I used to relieve some of the metal in the center to make it lower than the edges,but this is easier and far superior.
3) Use several small rivets for strength,and the mosaic pins for looks.
4) MOST IMPORTANT - Don't clamp the scales down hard.You will squeeze out all the glue and it will fail easily.See suggestion #2 to avoid this completely.
Stacy
 
Thanks for the great advice. I'm going to be drilling 1/4" holes like mad, and I've decided to use a bolt at either end of the handle, with one or two mosaic pins in the center for decoration.

Thanks!
~ Dagr
 
You might want an odd number of pins and bolts.Even numbers often look funny.Draw it out and see what looks best.
 
i have found its best to give the epovy a little space insteed of clamping the scales tight and letting out all the epoxy. what you can do is use a little super glue and glue 4 thin washer to the tang so the when you put on the scale you will have an even gap between the scale and tang. then coat the tang and scale with epoxy and push togather. then i put some glue on the pins and slide them throught the holes and then move them inand out so the epoxy completley coveres all the inside of the hole and pin. then lightley clamp and let set up. you might need to use some electrial tape around the scales to keep the epoxy from running out of the gaps if you used thick washers.
 
I do basicly what has been suggested but still a little different. I sand the scales to make sure they are flat. I then take a dremel and recess the middle area of the scales on the tang side. The only area that touches the tang is roughly a 1/8" strip around the outside edge. I also drill two 1/4" shallow holes on the inside of the scales, in line with two of the 1/4" holes in the tang. If there are three pins, I do this between the middle pin and the two end pins. I then take the dremel with a reverse cone cutter and "bell" the bottom of these shallow holes for the epoxy to form a sort of anchor in. I also either use a file or the dremel with cut off discs to make small slots across the pins for the epoxy to get a better grip on them.
 
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