How do you get the draw marks off satin busse blades please?

R

rhwingert

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Aug 1, 2012
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You know, at first I was enamoured with kydex sheaths but a number of my new busse satin blades are now scratched; it doesn't seem to occur on the coated blades. Is there a simple, at home, way to get superficial scratches and draw marks off a satin blade? Please, nothing complicated here. I'm trying to change over to leather sheaths but it would be nice to start with pristine blades. This is my first post guys. Your attention is appreciated. R H Wingert
 
You might want to ask the mods to move your thread; this is the is the Busse sale forum. Take care.
 
The mods will get this thread moved for you either way, no worries. To answer your question, a medium grit Scotchbrite pad rubbed in the direction of the satin finish should remove lighter scratches.
 
Hi,
I strongly recommend to avoid using Scotchbrite - You might get things worse. To "remove" scratches you need to remove metal, most of the time is a very thin layer (microscopic) - but you might end up in "polished" spots and it will ruin the uniformity of the blade finish.

Sometimes those scratches are actually smears of kydex , a picture will help to determine what is the best option.
Try to clean it with a cloth moistened with oil, gasoline or diesel; Alcohol is also possible; However, refrain from all kinds of chemical metal polishing.

Hoped that helped
 
I use 2000 grit sandpaper. It is actually called polishing paper. If you go from spine to edge and not the length of the blade it will take very light scratches out. You will need to do both sides for uniformity. The knife will NOT look like the factory finish but it should clean it up without taking too much material off. Sounds like you do not plan to use your knives . . . . a little scratching give them some character. USE THOSE BUSSE KNIVES!
 
The satin finished blades have a "satin" coating in them. I used some flitz on a paper towel to buff out some scratches I had on a Tank Buster but it left some noticeably "polished areas". I just lightly polished the whole blade so it was more uniform. I'm planning to keep/use it so it doesn't bother me but it does look a little different than the factory finish.
 
crocodilus said:
So no way to fix scratches in satin blades? Home made of course.
Click to expand...

You can, and 'Shaving sharp' wrote you the method;
A work like this (working the whole blade with polishing paper) require your full attention and Patience;
try to look at youtube for polishing katana with sandpaper or finger stones (you can cut the sandpaper into small squares and work gently on the blade).

You can also use a buff wheel - but that will probably change the texture of the satin finish.
 
Cut resistant gloves worked very well for me when I stripped a blade, they're only $10 or $12 on Amazon and they prevent a nasty injury!
 
If you successfully remove the scratches, you can't use the same kydex sheath any more, unless you wanna schrach the blade again.
In order to a avoid that, I wrap the blade in a few layers of painter tape (enough to make it a tight fit) and then force the blade into the sheath. It usually removes whatever it is scratching the blade....
You can do that anytime you get a new sheath to avoid any scratches.

That being said, sooner or later the kydex will scratch your blade. Accept it or move on from kydex.
 
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I'll add my vote for scotch brite. It won't be exactly like the factory satin but still looks fine to me. I've done it to a few of my blades.
 
I completely remove scratches and get a nice satin finish with the scotch bright pads from the paint store.
If the scratches are very deep I wet sand them out with 1200 then go to the pad.

Here are a few things you can do to avoid disappointment:

Cover the Busse logo with a tiny piece of masking tape and go light when you get to it. This will keep the logo from fading.

Hold the knife at an angle and bury the edge of the blade in a mouse pad when you do your passes. This way you can get right to the edge without dulling it.

I work on the deepest scratches first then fade away in both directions.

keep your passes even and strait up and down and I promise you will be fine.
 
If none of the above answers give you the desired result, you can send the knife into the shop and I can touch it up for you.

Garth
 
Actually, my thanks to all respondents. This has been a very satisfying, educational thread for me. I'll give these suggestions a try and if not satisfactory I'll send the knives to Garth. I've sent a few to Busse Kin and have always received perfect, timely service. RHWingert
 
rhwingert said:
You know, at first I was enamoured with kydex sheaths but a number of my new busse satin blades are now scratched; it doesn't seem to occur on the coated blades. Is there a simple, at home, way to get superficial scratches and draw marks off a satin blade? Please, nothing complicated here. I'm trying to change over to leather sheaths but it would be nice to start with pristine blades. This is my first post guys. Your attention is appreciated. R H Wingert
Click to expand...



I use a 500 grit Scotchbrite wheel on medium speed (around 500 rpm), practice a bit on a cheap knife and you'll be putting beautiful satin back on your knives in no time at all, but don't Scotchbrite your logo because it will fade. I have found that medium pressure on the wheel gives you the satin closest to the original Busse satin.
 
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