How do You Guys Sharpen Your 110's?

K

knivesngear

Joined
Nov 23, 2010
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hey guys I was wondering when the time comes and I have to sharpen my 110 what should I do. I free hand sharpen on a silicon carbide stone with water now and I can get a nice edge on my knives. I have a buck 110 custom with s30v and have some questions too: 1) How do I account for the 110 hollow ground blade
2) about what angle is the factory edge on a 110.


-kng
 
I have been successfully using a Lansky clamp system since late 70's. Use the 25 degree angle on everything I sharpen.

The first time to sharpen a blade takes the longest, getting my angle.

Use the diamond hones on S30V if it is really dull. Otherwise the regular hones.

I just can't keep the same angles doing free hand.
 
I use croc sticks cause I havent taught myself sharpen on a stone yet. They work good on 420hc and touching up 440c and premium steels. But if I have a dull 440c or premium, they dont work very well. I have tried to use them to sharpen up ats34 on my Csar and have had only limited success.
 
I establish the angle with the Edge Pro and then touch up on a ceramic rod or strop.
 
I freehand sharpen and I think it is all muscle memory because I get a very consistent edge on all of my knives.
 
Gear, You do not have to account for the hollow grind on your 110 during sharpening . On the older ones, yes . The angle I've used recently is 15* (2 nickles stacked on top of each other) and it seems to match up nicely . If your SiC stone has a coarse/fine just try the fine side and make yourself a good leather strop, loading it with appropriate rouge . Then learn to use this as you'll notice a high quality edge from you Buck Custom . Good sharpening . DM
 
I lay the blade flat on the stone and then raise the top of the blade to get "my angle" on the edge.

I suppose it's about 15 or so degrees. I just go by the look of it and I do look very hard at the angle and concentrate on keeping it the same

I've done it a lot, so I think it's pretty consistent. It works well enough to make sharp knives and that's my goal.

I rarely use anything but a coarse stone. Sometimes I'll do a little finishing with the medium surface on a diamond stick.

I don't attempt to get edges "hair-popping" sharp. Damn sharp is all I need.

There are many YouTube clips on sharpening. Look at a lot of styles and strategies and choose the one that works for you and stick with it. It may be a combination of several styles. That's ok.

Practice will pay dividends.
 
i have used every thing from old fashon ark stones
to carbide tri stones
to diamond and ceramics
and yes once a flat rock ...

hair poppen sharp is nice for some things
for a work knife damm sharp as said abve is damm good

today i use wet auto finish grade sand paper on plate glass
and i free hand as i have always done
yes i have lansky system also
used it on edges that have been destroyed to reset angles
find for every day use freehand is jest fine for working edges
for meat edge yes poppen sharp is great and i use steels for that to frishen up
 
I use a sharpmaker or freehand on a diamond bench stone,depending on what i'm gonna use the 110 for,i so etimes put a fine ploished edge useing cardboard and flitz metal polish,I never follow the factory edge,i establish my own edge onn the first re-sharpening on each knife,then go from there.
 
RAZORBLADES said:
I use a sharpmaker or freehand on a diamond bench stone,depending on what i'm gonna use the 110 for,i so etimes put a fine ploished edge useing cardboard and flitz metal polish,I never follow the factory edge,i establish my own edge onn the first re-sharpening on each knife,then go from there.
Click to expand...



do you use the cardboard as a strop and put the flitz on it to polish the edge up?

-kng
 
I've been using a Tri Stone.It comes with a small plastic angle guide.The main thing is to be consistent on each side.Also the duller you're blade is the harder it is too get that sharp edge back.
 
I made jigs to hold large stones at the desired angle. Then I point the edge at the ground and grind away. I stay away from ceramic sticks because it is so difficult to finish a stroke on the stick without wrapping the point over the stick and dulling the point. My ramps are adjustable, but I usually set them up at 75 degrees so that the final edge is 30 degrees included. Corundum and Carborundum stones (Al2O3&SiC) work nicely on S30V.
 
knivesngear said:
do you use the cardboard as a strop and put the flitz on it to polish the edge up?

-kng
Click to expand...

Yes,thats exactly what i do,I sharpen one side of the blade,raise a burr,then flip over and raise a burr on that side,then strop it off on the cardboard loaded with flitz,makes a durable lasting edge.
 
RAZORBLADES said:
Yes,thats exactly what i do,I sharpen one side of the blade,raise a burr,then flip over and raise a burr on that side,then strop it off on the cardboard loaded with flitz,makes a durable lasting edge.
Click to expand...


great technique. I tried it out with an old SAK and really like the results.
 
Tiguy, Yes SiC works well on S30V .BG, Yes I too sharpen mostly/only on coarse stones . DM
 
I sharpen my 110 like all of my knives.

First I use a stone which I use for the scythe. After that I use my Lansky Standart Sharpening. The 420 HC steel is easily to getting sharpen.

Thats it. If I want it really sharp, I use a leather belt for finishing the whole procedure.

Kind regards
 
knivesngear said:
AK stones are some of the hardest stones to use when sharpening s30v.

-kng
Click to expand...

I mostly use a fine Arkansas for touching up S30V 110s. I only go to the diamonds on my Buck tri-stone system when the blade is somewhat dull. If my S30Vs get very dull (rarely) they go to Buck for sharpening. It's a big time saver and sending to Buck reinstates the factory edge, which I could never get from sharpening a very dull knife by hand. I only sharpen free-hand, I never use a guide.
 
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