how do you 'jewel'?

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Feb 12, 2001
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I'm making a set of Stainless Steel scales for my Cricket. I am looking at different options for the finish.

I have the equipment to do a Mirror or a satin finish, but not sure if I have the stuff to do a jeweled look, as I have no idea how to.

Anyone care to help?
 
thee are cratex tipped drill bits that you get from jantz supply. a hard rubber type material with fine abrasive embedded. put it in the chuck and start making the little circles, slightly overlaped.
 
As madcap as it may sound, I've been told you can do a very fine job of jewelling with...wait for it...a pencil eraser!!

Haven't tried it yet, so I can't really say whether it's true or not, but it sure is cheaper, if it is!!!

Give it a try, and let the rest of us know, eh?

Kal
 
A messy way to do it is use fine valve grinding paste and a wooden dowel rod. Cratex is infinitely better though.
 
You can use a pencil eraser. You will need to use a lapping compound like valve grinding compound and watch the pressure.
 
I'll have to give the eraser a shot then. About 1/2 done the shaping when class ended yesterday. Should have them ready to finish by friday next week.
 
I use the Brownells kit. It is a spring loaded small wire brush with adjustable tension so the swirls are even. A cross vise is needed for the drill press for even spacing and uniform overlaps. I use dry aluminum oxide about 220 grit that comes with those cardboard wheel sharpening kits. You know the kind for $19.95 in knife catalogs. I spray wd-40 on the liners and sprinkle the grit on. Practise for a few minutes on scrap steel and then go for it. Its easy and impresses the wife and kids.
 
We old gear heads call it Machine turned.

I did it once with the 1/4 inch Dia. eraser for a draftmans electric
eraser. Comes about 6 in. long and several "grits". Just chucked up 1 in. pieces in the drill vise. Used clamped down stops and strips of 3/16 steel to "index" over and out. Tedious to do but will wow the rubes every time.
 
I use a product from Brownells that has long Cratex rods that are held in a brass sleeve that is then held in a steel collet. Works real well and I recommend it. I found that I get better results if I periodically true up the face of the Cratex rod by bringing it down on a smooth file while it is turning. I also cut the rods in half to reduce the working length and increase stability.
 
I've done a bit of "Jeweling" with a plain wooden dowel (you pick the size) in a press drill. You may have to use several pieces of dowel if you have a larger area to cover as the "grinding end" wears after a bit.
 
I use a wire brush, about 3/8" Dia., the type that the bristles stick out the front!! I ground mine so they are about 1/4" long from the collar or ring that holds them in. I run it fast in my drill press and use Cool Tool II for lubrication. It works GREAT on Ti. and so far it's lasted for MANY knives!!

Neil
 
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