How do you keep from scratching your knife during convex sharpening?

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Sep 17, 2010
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I am going to attempt my first shot at sharpening my Rodent Solution tonight. Eric told me it's a slight convex edge. I read that while using the mousepad and sandpaper method you will scratch the sides of you blade. Is there a way to avoid this?
 
I sometimes use painter's tape when I'm drunk. If your hands are really steady, you won't need it though.
 
I am going to attempt my first shot at sharpening my Rodent Solution tonight. Eric told me it's a slight convex edge. I read that while using the mousepad and sandpaper method you will scratch the sides of you blade. Is there a way to avoid this?
I never go under 15 degrees per side, so it's never an issue ot me. Just don't lay your knife flat on top of the sand paper/stone or leather strop and you will never have a problem.

It's not like it's different from sharpening a traditional V-edge using the same sharpening method. They will all get stratched if you screw up on a stone.
 
Yeah, use some tape on the areas you don't want scratched. But seriously, it is a knife, you will scratch it if you use it.

Regards,

Rich
 
Yeah, use some tape on the areas you don't want scratched. But seriously, it is a knife, you will scratch it if you use it.

Regards,

Rich
True didn't think about that haha. Also I don't know how to sharpen a v grind freehand on a stone I just use the SM for V grinds. Is it important to know how to sharpen on a stone?
 
True didn't think about that haha. Also I don't know how to sharpen a v grind freehand on a stone I just use the SM for V grinds. Is it important to know how to sharpen on a stone?
Not really. The Sharpmaker puts a great edge on V-Grinds, so don't worry. But you will notice how muich easier is to keep a Convex knife just using a strop, most of the times you will never need stones or sand paper if you adopt a stroping routine. I can even sharpen my convex blades on my sofa, newspaper or rough jeans.

By the way, you can sharpen your V-Grinds the same way you do with convex blades. I usually use the Sharpmaker to put an edge on a dull knife, then I strop it using the same method I use on convex edges.
 
you might want to put a few layers of masking tape on and put a piece just up from the edge about 1/4" just to make sure. also make sure you get the shoulder thinned down.
 
One thing is that it wasnt very sharp from the factory so it has to be sharpened. Thanks for all the help.
 
Well I have been doing this technique for about an hour and its still not sharp very frustrating I dont know what I am doing wrong I am making sure the edge touches then simply drawing the knife across and pivoting the belly. It was really dull from the factory like I dont know if I could cut my finger very easily so could it take awhile?
 
steeleysawyer, i make a lot of convex edge knives and i have a lot of different methods for sharpening and maintaining convex edges. send me an email and your number and i'll give you a call and help you get your knives sharp.

if you want an easy fast way to maintain your convex edge and your other knives that have a v edge check out the paper wheel thread. i had a member send me an xm 24 blade that i put a convex edge on for him. here is his post in the paper wheel thread. i used my belt sander to convex the blade and finished the edge off with the slotted paper wheel. here is his the link to his post. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9207988&postcount=710
 
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I am going to attempt my first shot at sharpening my Rodent Solution tonight. Eric told me it's a slight convex edge. I read that while using the mousepad and sandpaper method you will scratch the sides of you blade. Is there a way to avoid this?

IF the edge isn't too dull yet, one way to minimize the heavy scratching is to start at a high grit, like 1000 or so. You might find it's enough to get your edge back in shape. If not, take baby steps down in grit (next step, to 800 or so, then 600, 400, etc.). For most touch-ups, I've been using 1000 or 2000 grit. By themselves, both of those will leave at least a slight polish (2000 produces a more recognizable high shine). The heaviest scratches will be produced below 400 grit. If done carefully, without using too much pressure, the 400 grit will leave a more 'satin' look.

Take it slow to maintain control of the angle, and keep your pressure as light as possible. That'll also minimize heavy scratching.

Edit:
Might use leather backing, instead of a mouse pad. The mouse pad is rather soft, and the blade will naturally sink a little deeper, exposing more of the blade to the abrasive. That also makes it more difficult to avoid rounding the edge. A thinner leather backing (maybe 1/8" or less) will convex nicely, and give you more control over the edge.
 
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