How do you keep the POINT on a Wharncliffe?

[Lavan]

or for that matter, ANY blade like the Wharncliffe or the Endura or any hollow grinds that have the edge all the way up to the point?

As I run it on the sticks, the very last part of the stroke ALWAYS comes off the stick and the very action of removing metal during sharpening automatically removes the portion of the edge that was formerly the pointy part of the point.

I have no problem with any knife that has a ridge line up to the point as it is always there supporting the edge. And if it DOES shorten the knife as is inevitable from years of sharpening, it just works the whole point back while still staying pointy.

Hope that's clear.

Anyhow, any tricks?

 

[AlphalphaPB]

Try not to run the tip off the stick. You can use the flats of a Sharpmaker stone to sharpen the tip area.

For knives that already have really blunt tips, you can also regrind the tip from the spine. Ugly, but it works.

 

[horseclover]

Originally posted by AlphalphaPB
Try not to run the tip off the stick. You can use the flats of a Sharpmaker stone to sharpen the tip area.

For knives that already have really blunt tips, you can also regrind the tip from the spine. Ugly, but it works.

The process of reprofiling doesn't have to end up ugly A wharnclife, or sheepsfoot is a lot easier than a clipped bowie.

Another tip (ha) for slipjoints and lockbacks, if a re-profiled pont on a folder seats above the frame when closed, dress the kick to let the blade nest lower on the spring.

Cheers

GC

 

[smokinbasser]

I have never had problems with keeping the tip sharp on my sheepsfoot blades or wharnecliffs I use the lansky system, a dia sharp diamond sharpening card and ceramic sticks.The tip an all of mine are very sharp and pointed.Excellent splinter pickers. Maybe I'm just lucky.

 

[dsvirsky]

As I run it on the sticks, the very last part of the stroke ALWAYS comes off the stick and the very action of removing metal during sharpening automatically removes the portion of the edge that was formerly the pointy part of the point.

Try sharpening the last half inch of the blade (tip end) first -- just run straight down the flats of the Sharpmaker stone, if that's what you're using. Then, sharpen the rest of the blade, working into the area you've already sharpened, but stopping well short of the tip.