How do you make inlays?

Joined
Sep 17, 1999
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320
I want to start putting mop and gold inlays in my knives. How is it done?

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I'm a Schizophrenic and so am I
 
The typical high end way is to have a pantograph set-up on a mill. You have a model that your follower runs around, and the handle material is milled by the cutter in your mill. I've seen this done before, there was a male and female model, one to make a pocket and one to make a piece to fit into said pocket.

But...you can do it by VERY carefully cutting the pocket into your handle material with something simple like a dremel, and then very carefully fitting your inlay.

I think it's easiest to cut the inlay close to shape on a scroll saw, and then sand it to fit as snug as possible. An inlay can be done with a very good fit this way if done carefully.

I'm sure there are other ways out there though...
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Nick
 
There is an attachment for the router that will make the inlays and the pocket for them by simply removing a collar.
I read somewhere that you could make 'inlays' by using colored epoxy. Is anyone doing that? I know most of the makers would sneer but what I do mostly is for theatre (and the occasional film) and looks are more important than being authentic.
Thanks, Lynn
 
A way I plan on trying is using my mill, you could also try this on a drill press, as a pin router. If you're not familiar with a pin router, I'll try to explain it. You make a female master or pattern the shape and size of the inlay and temporarily attach them to the bottom of the material being cut. Decide what diameter cutter you'll be using and get a piece of brass or steel pin that same size. Take a nice smooth flat piece of steel or even hardwood and drill a hole in it that you set the pin into. It needs to be a tight fit so the pin doesn't wobble or try to come out. Then clamp the steel or board so the pin aligns exactly with the cutter. To make the cut all you do is set the master over the pin, turn on the mill, slowly lower the cutter into the material and carefully move it around, removing material. Once you get 90% of the material removed you can then follow the master with the pin and get an exact cavity. Theres a way you can change the size of the bit and use the same master for both the cavity and the inlay but I haven't figured the bit sizes yet. I'll post them when I do.It's probably the same ratio that you use when using guide bushings on a router.
Main deal with this is safety, go slow.

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Take care!! Michael

Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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