How do you make your 416 guards?

D

deloid

Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
458
As a "primitive" maker. I forge, file and sand. I use wrought iron and nickel silver with simple designs for my guards/caps.

I now want to make finer knives and I love what most of you do with 416 ss. My guess is that I probably have to save up for a grinder.

I would love to read how many of you work your 416 guards.

Thanks for any input-
Dean
 
I work SS for fittings like most any other material- except maybe using cobalt or carbide to mill with or drill pin holes. It's tougher to solder than brass/NS/wrought iron, just needs good fitup, cleanliness, and heat control. And lots of practice. It's usually easier to accomplish many shaping and polishing tasks in knifemaking with a grinder, and this is no exception. It might make the difference of whether or not you burn yourself out at making knives. If I'd never gotten belt grinders, I'd probably have thrown the files away in disgust and been an artist blacksmith instead. Just my $0.02.
 
+1 to what Salem said. I mill the guard to fit the blade, then do rough shaping using the small-wheel attachment on my grinder. Final cleanup is done using strips of 120 and 240 grit shop roll followed by hand-sanding with paper... usually up to 1200 or 2000 grit.

Salem Straub said:
If I'd never gotten belt grinders, I'd probably have thrown the files away in disgust...
Click to expand...

I definitely agree with this. ;)
 
Sometimes I use a Mill to make the Slot and sometimes I use a Jewellers saw to cut them and then file to fit. But most always use a small wheel atachment on my KMG to get it to shape if it's a hunter/fighter.
 
Guards on a Hidden Tang......

File Guide
Mini-Mill
Tight Fit
JB Weld (mostly)
Did I mention tight fit ?
KMG Small Wheel
Lots of Hand Sanding
More Hand Sanding
A little LUCK.

Guards on a Full Tang.......

Hate-'em
Rarely Do-'em
Too much time involved
Always worry about pins showing
Did I mention.... Hate-'em ?

Please excuse me, as I am old and set in my ways.

Robert
 
I use a lot of 416 for guards and pommels. As supplied, it is fairly soft, not as soft as nickel-silver or brass. It works pretty easily with sharp tools and good sandpaper. After fitting, I remove it and heat treat. After heat treat, it is harder and polishes up better on a buffer. After heat treat, taper ream the holes in the guards, use 416 pins ( not hardened) and beat them with a ball pein. Then file the dents, buff the surface and the pins disappear. The HT 416 resists scratches better, making it stay nicer longer.
Chip Kunkle
 
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